Official MINI DRLs Fitted
I tried....It doesn't work so good, least for me. Was think of getting a spec to Lamin-X to see if they need to do a special cut. The globe is deeper on the DRL based on the fit of the fog Lamin-X. It doesn't reach the edge and heat will be a requirement and perhaps thickness.
Mike- Thanks for the info, I did not know if anyone tried that yet with the DRLs. So its a bit short and using a heatgun did not work ? How short is it, maybe it covers most of it would you say?
Thanks
Thanks
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It does cover most of it and I can see that if proper heat were applied and one has 3 or 4 hands, you may be able stretch it just to the edge. Ideally if it were larger, one could stretch it and trim off the wrinkle. Centering a cold one up I'm guesstimating from recollection between a 1/4 to 1/2" - 5/16"? - shy of full coverage. I had trouble getting it to flatten on the globe due to the roundness with a heat gun which I'm sure is at least partially user error. I was working with the DRL unmounted, straight out of the box. The Lamin-X piece I was using was the one that comes provided with the headlight w\washer kit for the R56.
Yea, the heat and working it will helps with the contour and the curve, you almost have to stretch and press. Might get it to the edge.
The R56 headlight / fog kit uses the same piece in just the fog-lights. There are larger sheets which people use for custom applications. That would work well with the stretch and cut approach.
Here in the universal lamin -X. That way you have room to play.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/Lamin-X_Universal/
The R56 headlight / fog kit uses the same piece in just the fog-lights. There are larger sheets which people use for custom applications. That would work well with the stretch and cut approach.
Here in the universal lamin -X. That way you have room to play.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/Lamin-X_Universal/
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
I thought the same but that cover is removable. It slides off to show all the wires.
FWIW, full rings with headlights would be WAY too bright for oncoming traffic.
I feel your pain. My Cooper is a daily driver and my only car so I'm going to make sure I'm familiar with everything I need to do in advance so I dont have to spend time with the front end in pieces figuring out what to do next and how. Properly mounting that control box is a major concern because I don't want to just zip-tie it to the fuse box so you have to cut them to open the lid. I bought a used fuse box real cheap on ebay and am trying to figure out a neater way to strap it to the side while keeping the lid clear.
It's just as well my set of lights isn't even on it's way yet, gives me more time to prepare.
It's just as well my set of lights isn't even on it's way yet, gives me more time to prepare.

This talk of 3 hr install time gives me an inferiority complex. 11pm - 2am last night i spent on just the wiring set up. wipers wouldnt come off without a fight and don't get me started on squeezing that control box next to the fuse box.
just too busy to tackle the JCW bumper removal... might bite the bullet and have the mechanic finish it. already removed my rally lights / grill. Hopefully theyll cut me a deal for all that prep. With the money I saved on my group buy, I'll put toward the mechanic. hope i can drive my car with all this stuff removed / loose.
Just not the DIY'er I used to be with all of life's responsibilities! Wish Milwaukee had the Dallas DIY community.
just too busy to tackle the JCW bumper removal... might bite the bullet and have the mechanic finish it. already removed my rally lights / grill. Hopefully theyll cut me a deal for all that prep. With the money I saved on my group buy, I'll put toward the mechanic. hope i can drive my car with all this stuff removed / loose.
Just not the DIY'er I used to be with all of life's responsibilities! Wish Milwaukee had the Dallas DIY community.
Last edited by komet155; Jan 17, 2014 at 12:59 PM.
Lol, you'll be fine buddy. That UK install guide is clutch. wouldnt worry about the zip ties. if you manage to fit it next to the fuse box, itll be in so tight you won't need them or the double sided tape.
I feel your pain. My Cooper is a daily driver and my only car so I'm going to make sure I'm familiar with everything I need to do in advance so I dont have to spend time with the front end in pieces figuring out what to do next and how. Properly mounting that control box is a major concern because I don't want to just zip-tie it to the fuse box so you have to cut them to open the lid. I bought a used fuse box real cheap on ebay and am trying to figure out a neater way to strap it to the side while keeping the lid clear.
It's just as well my set of lights isn't even on it's way yet, gives me more time to prepare.
It's just as well my set of lights isn't even on it's way yet, gives me more time to prepare.

I concur. Didn't actually look at them head on til yesterday when i tried photographing them and realized they're blazing. Still, it'd be nice to have them come on when you lock / unlock the car.
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I was unable to fit the control module between the shock tower and affixed to the fuse box. I had to go on the engine side of the controller. I couldn't even slip it in with the fuse block loosened, kind of sandwich them down together. I have not yet installed the lights themselves say I can't go ooooo yet. I did discover that the gray wire on pin 12 is the same wire that is requested by the extra driving lights. I'm hoping since I don't yet have the lights installed that is the reason I don't have brights and the extra driving lights depend on the brights to work. I have an aero II bumper with brake duct kit ready to install and that is when the lights go on!
yeah but that top 1/4 section is real meh. i'll just have to get my "standing outside the car" lighting kicks by installing some ghost lights under the doors. gotta stop there before i go all ricer on this.


Last edited by stash182; Jan 21, 2014 at 12:50 PM.
I was unable to fit the control module between the shock tower and affixed to the fuse box. I had to go on the engine side of the controller. I couldn't even slip it in with the fuse block loosened, kind of sandwich them down together. I have not yet installed the lights themselves say I can't go ooooo yet. I did discover that the gray wire on pin 12 is the same wire that is requested by the extra driving lights. I'm hoping since I don't yet have the lights installed that is the reason I don't have brights and the extra driving lights depend on the brights to work. I have an aero II bumper with brake duct kit ready to install and that is when the lights go on!
Sent from my iPhone using NAMotoring
Sent from my iPhone using NAMotoring
I have gotten mine installed today. I have a problem I thought I would quiz you guys on before tearing back in to it. I've got no halo. I've disabled the running lights.
0 - nothing.
1 - top half
2 - top half
Fogs work.
Extra driving lights work with Hi beam as they should.
Blue wire is to gray at pin 12 which is also the same wire that controls the extra driving lights. I'm going to have to guess that I didn't get a good connection at pin 12?
0 - nothing.
1 - top half
2 - top half
Fogs work.
Extra driving lights work with Hi beam as they should.
Blue wire is to gray at pin 12 which is also the same wire that controls the extra driving lights. I'm going to have to guess that I didn't get a good connection at pin 12?
I have gotten mine installed today. I have a problem I thought I would quiz you guys on before tearing back in to it. I've got no halo. I've disabled the running lights.
0 - nothing.
1 - top half
2 - top half
Fogs work.
Extra driving lights work with Hi beam as they should.
Blue wire is to gray at pin 12 which is also the same wire that controls the extra driving lights. I'm going to have to guess that I didn't get a good connection at pin 12?
0 - nothing.
1 - top half
2 - top half
Fogs work.
Extra driving lights work with Hi beam as they should.
Blue wire is to gray at pin 12 which is also the same wire that controls the extra driving lights. I'm going to have to guess that I didn't get a good connection at pin 12?
Thanks Greg! I'm now debating extending the stripe, leaving it as is, or , taking it off and getting what I've been told are "Corvette Stripes." Two hashmarks just above the wheels at an angle on both sides, then leave the back, which matches the front all the way to the diffuser. Whaddya think?
Sorry - off topic.
Sorry - off topic.
Last edited by MikewithaMini; Jan 27, 2014 at 12:36 PM.






