We have them in currently stock if anyone is looking for them.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/63122338554/


TheZlog- post up some pics when you get them installed. They will look great.

 

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I agree. I think they are only charging 1 and half hrs for installation which is a steal.

 

That is a very good deal! It took me about 5 hours myself since I tried working around taking the entire bumper off, but eventually removed it. Now since I could easily do it in 2 hours with the lessons I learned. My dealer initial told me 4 hours since they had not done one before.

 

That price is a steal. I've done this install twice and both times it's taken no less than 4.5 hours.

 

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I noticed this morning that one of my halos is not working but the fog lights and top halo are working on that light. I hope it is simply a loose connector!

 

Installing these on my wifes CM All4. Pretty straight-forward, as I had installed them on my R58 JCW without issue. But now, after installing them on the CM tot he same pin 12 grey wire on the black footwell module connector, I am getting a lighting system error from the car. The headlights (Xenons) and full halos are coming on with the headlight switch in the "off" position. (The car does not have Auto-Headlights). i have reseated the red splice connector 4 times now on that same grey wire (in different spots along the wire) but nothing changes. Checked the connectors at each light. Check the connections for the ground and hot. All look good.

Could I be tapping into the wrong grey cable (pin 12 of the black footwell module). Could I tap into something else to try to see if that is the issue?

-Z

 

I assume you set your daytime running lights to the off position. "To ensure proper functioning of the LED daytime running lights, the daytime running light option of your vehicle may not be reactivated via the onboard computer."

 

My DRL's have been working perfectly for the past few months, but this morning one of my full halos went dim. Both fog lights still work, both partial halos still work, and only one full halos works. The other one is barely visible (very dim) almost like it is not getting enough power. I disconnected the connectors to the that fog light and reconnected them--still no full halo.

Any ideas? I suppose the next step is to remove the bumper and temporarily reconnect the dim fog light to the other side connectors and see what happens. I could at least isolate if the issue is with the light itself or something else like a crimp in the wire.

 

That's disturbing to hear, especially because it's such a pain in the @ss to remove the light units for replacement or testing.
How long did you have them on the car and did you have any issues with wiring during install? How about wet weather driving? Did you go through any really big puddles recently?

 

thats what the warranty is for

 

I had them installed and it worked for about 9 months. Currently, I removed and sent the one bad fog light back and I am waiting for a replacement from Mini. I recall washing my Mini the day before but really did not notice it until the next day when I pulled up at a stop light and saw the reflection in the vehicle in front of me.
I am glad I only needed to remove the one fog light and not the entire wiring system. It was definately the sealed light problem since when I plugged in the bad light into the opposite side plug, the halo did not work there also. I really need to take photos, since I have one of the original fog reinstalled and the new halo type. The LED is significantly brighter then the regular fog light.

 

I'm glad to hear you got it figured out. I noticed the other day that the lights are sealed units and so none of the interior components are removable for replacement. If anything burns out inside, the entire housing needs to be swapped out.

I've had my kit in the garage for a few months now, slowly preparing for doing the install myself. I had explored alternatives to mounting the control unit in the suggested location strapped to the underhood fuse box and found a suitable spot under the passenger side cowling, not far from the battery.
I've modified the upright plastic piece that snaps into the bulkhead close by to accept the control unit. It fits in there neatly. I'll run the wires through a small hole drilled in the upper edge of the bulkhead just to the right of the front of the battery. I'll post pictures once it's done and I figure out how to upload to photobucket.

 

You cant get the individual lamps yet, like encase someone damages the front corner and the light in a accident, but you can get the module only now on its own encase its damaged in a wreak or something else.

Thanks

 

Keep in mind that depending on where the LED were ordered from, there may be only a 1 year warranty on parts (or two years from some Mini dealers). For installation, I would highly recommend removing the front bumper. I tried working around it but I would have save hours by simply removing it first. In the end I removed the bumper and was able to fasten the wires properly. Not to mention the windshield fluid resovoir is in the way. I was glad I ordered a replacement plastic expanding rivets for the wheel well trim from ECS (their shipping costs are outragiously expensive! for a 99 cent part will cost just under $10 for shipping-- which is still cheaper than dealership pricing), since once you punch out the center, it was difficult to locate the little plastic pin. Most of the other fasterers are torx screws and/or bolts.

 

I got mine from MINI Parts Store in OH ( http://thebmwminipartstore.com/ ). They're also an advertiser on this site. Since it's an actual Mini dealership it it would come with the standard new parts warranty. I thought ahead when I ordered and also got a dozen each of various clips for trim I plan on having to remove for this project as well as future ones. It saved on shipping having them sent in the same box with my lights and GP2 sport steering wheel.

One of the other things I was trying to figure out ahead of time was whether I should bite the bullet and remove the front bumper or try to reach through the wheel well. Im just going to remove the front bumper although I am afraid I'll scratch the paint while handling....may wind up attaching some foam sheeting (the kind they ship electronics with) to the bumper exterior with painters non-marring masking tape in case I accidentally bump or scrape it against the concrete floor of my garage.

 

I was just browsing around on http://thebmwminipartstore.com/ and noticed that they offer a small parts flat rate shipping for $6.45 -anything that can fit in a 12x12x5-1/2 box. That will come in handy when I order some more small part soon....touch up paint, wheel center caps, etc.

 

That is a good price.

 

UPDATE: My alternative CU placement project is proceeding...slowly. Today I finally mounted the control box in that new location. It fits like a glove. I ran the blue wire across the cowl area to the waterproof grommet and ran it through under the dashboard. For now it's stashed inside the plastic footwell trim. I connected the hot wire to the accessory post on the positive battery terminal. It also fits there perfectly. I've temporarily pulled the in-line fuse since I'm not ready to have power to the C.U. yet. I connected the ground wire to the ground terminal, sandwiched in the space the bolt runs through.

For now, I've tucked away the cables that will run to the lighting units because I'm not about to remove the bumper today and deal with all of that.

I have already drilled a round notch in the upper edge of the bulkhead at the bend near the battery so I can run the cables neatly through there.

So, now the CU is neatly mounted. All I have to do is remove my front bumper, attach the new lights, run the cables forward along the right side of the car, attaching to existing cables, then across to the light on the left side.

Then, I have to make that connection for the one blue wire at the footwell unit, but I may first mount up my JCW gauges so I can access the FCU for both connections at the same time.


Bulkhead upright piece I trimmed. The red outline shows the part cut out in order to get the CU to fit up against the flat portion:


Diagram showing the upright piece position as well as where I cut the round notch for the main cable to come through:


This shows the prepared upright piece....ready to accept the C.U. Note there's some additional plastic trimmed, the pointy piece remaining wasnt going to do me any good. Make sure you install this before attaching the C.U. It's much easier that way:


Prefitting the CU to make sure it will fit neatly:


The CU in place under the cowl:


Hot wire fits under the nut on this battery terminal:


Negative wire ring terminal sandwiched in the squeeze area on the terminal. It fits around the bolt that goes through there:


Blue wire routed down under upright to go across cowl area:


This is only a supplement to other extensive write-ups for the full install to show this alternate placement. You may want to refer to other posts to see how to remove the watertight seal cover, etc.

Marked for cutting out the bulkhead notch:


One hole cut here:


The other right behind it to enable the cowl cover to fit and seal properly:


Test fitting of the cable running through bulkhead. Nice & neat, just the way I like it:



You can view the entire gallery here, including how I cut the hole using a step drill bit:
http://s875.photobucket.com/user/komet155/library/

Hope this helps!

 

Thanks! (I would not connect the ground wire directly to the battery nor to a spot that already has a ground wire. The ground should be connected to a position with no existing ground wires--to prevent a ground loop from occuring.)

 

I've never heard of a ground loop. There are some other accessories already connected directly to the ground post of the battery (by the factory).

 

Original instruction call for the ground to be placed on a grounding stud existing with many other ground wires. This ground is located and reachable with the fuse block moved out of the way.

 

Yes, I know that the official instructions call for grounding it there but since I've chosen to mount the control unit under the cowl (close to the battery) instead, I've looked for alternate positive and negative connections. Hot will be on the accessory post which is part of the terminal assembly and ground will be on the battery negative terminal UNLESS I can find another convenient ground post close by. I haven't looked very hard for one because I thought going directly to the battery would be OK.

 

Yes, I understand your choice. Not particularly easy to get to, and there might be others more easily accessible, but there is one on the inside right hand internal rocker panel. It is located about mid-seat. The trim of course needs to be removed and you know how to do that from getting to the footwell module. Your wire length would have to be extended for sure.
The reason for my response was from what you had said about staying away from multiple grounds on a single point (as I understood) which is what the original instructed ground point is. There is a lot of grounds on that post.