Welcome.

Post up some pics of the install when done.

 

I definitely want these to replace my current fog lights, xenon DRL. It seems when I call Mini in Annapolis, I get the BMIR guys who transfer me to Mini Sales who transfer me to parts, who transfer me to service, which is BMIR people who transfer me to Mini...
I also want driving lights and an armrest. Maybe time to try another Mini dealer.

 

Finally talked to the Mini of Annapolis Maryland ServiceDepartment and asked about replacing the fog lights with Mini DRL. They got back with me and said Mini’s canonly use headlamps as DRL, to use the fog lights require rewiring and thecomputer… I said I don’t want to use thefog lights, I want the fog light replaced with Mini DRL’s. He said he never heard of them, did acomputer search, saw what I was talking about, he said it looks like 1.5 hoursto install and he would have to look into it. He said no one ever asked for these and Mini never sent anything outsaying they were available.
I asked about installing Mini Driving Lights he said last one he did ran over $1,400.00? I wasshocked by that cost. I know it requiresa new grill with brackets, but that is just a plastic piece. I must be missing something.

 

We have the DRL / Fog light kit here:


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/63122338554/




For the driving lights and armrest send me a PM as the factory driving lights ( aka rally lights or additional driving lights ) require the grille to model and style of your MINI. Factory armrest also has some options.

Thanks

 

The dealer I bought my JCW from didn't know about it either until I showed them on my iPhone what I was talking about. Then after the car purchase, they said it would take 12 days from Germany. 2-3 weeks afterwards they proceeded to tell me that MINI is making them unavailable until next year for an unknown reason. Figured this was BS and found them available online a day later. Not all dealers are equal with their customer service. Good luck with your purchase of the LED DRLs.

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StrikeZ, The Extra Driving Lights do require 3 (as I recall) part numbers. One for the lights and the wiring kit, the 2nd for the grill and the mounting brackets and a third for the knee bolster where the switch mounts. You can get them either chrome or black bodied. They are intended to work with bright lights only if wired by spec. I have installed 2 sets. First one took me about 6 hours because I didn't know what I was doing. The 2nd set took me about 2.5. Each complete kit, from the dealer online (Sewell) cost me right at $500. List is Just over $600 on the kit, about $60 more for colored Knee bolsters vs. standard greyish. $800 to install them is plain crazy.

 

I suck at DIY. I wish I could do this myself.
They found the DRL and quoted me $799 installed. He said they are in the system in Nazareth, PA.
The rally lights are close to $800 installed ($335 in labor for just the Rally lights).
Does anyone know a decent Mini mechanic in Maryland?
I

 

That's more in line with dealer pricing... Good luck finding someone local! They're out there, I'm betting!

 

I finally got a day off work so I installed my LED DRLs last night. I took the bumper off as I fitted my Helix FMIC as well. It took me way longer than I planned for but that was because the pipes were really stuck on the stock intercooler, and it took a very long time to get them loose. Then it took me several tries to get the FMIC on because of the new radiator support bar (I did not have this on my MCS). I really thought I was F-ed when I couldn't get it to fit at first lol.
But after many trials and tribulations, the good news is that everything worked correctly on the first try.

Man I love these DRLs!

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Congrats!!
Yeah, the DRL's are the ****!!

 

It seems I did something wrong with my install or putting the car back together because now my right turn signal isn't working? The left turn signal works and will only turn off if I make a left turn or hit the stalk to the go left again. Can anyone give me any suggestions as to where to start to troubleshoot this? Everything else seems to work okay such brake lights and when I turn the alarm on/off both sides light up. Thanks!

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Are you getting a bulb failure warning or any indication of a problem other than visually no light when you turn it on?




or putting the car back together because now my right turn signal isn't working? The left turn signal works and will only turn off if I make a left turn or hit the stalk to the go left again. Can anyone give me any suggestions as to where to start to troubleshoot this? Everything else seems to work okay such brake lights and when I turn the alarm on/off both sides light up. Thanks!

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No bulb failure warning or CEL or anything. Trying to activate the right turn signal just does not do anything inside the car and outside on both front and back lights. I've tested the headlights low/hi beams, brakes, fogs front/rear, horn, reverse light, windows and all seem to work. When I turn off the alarm, both side markers and turn signals flash twice. And that's about it AFAIK.

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Also just checked both sides work fine when I turn on emergency lights. I'm hoping it is just something like I didn't push the connector in the footwell module all the way in?

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It may be something Like that. I'm not a lot of help to you since I haven't wired the DRLs but I've done a couple driving lights that are close to the same wiring inputs. I messed up on the footwell module first one I did by not correctly identifying the wire color. In that tangle it's easy to mess up. I'd suggest getting good light and going back through it. Isn't there a connection made on top of the steering column as well?

 

Nope Just the blue wire in the footwell module for 12V input. Sent from my iPhone using NAMotoring

 

I appreciate you trying to help in any case and for that thank you.

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I'm sure you've been all through it, but in this thread, posts 264 and 384 hint to some confusion on the pin number\wire color at the footwell module.

 

I fixed it! Finally!! And you're not going to believe what was causing all the problems. lol. At first, I checked again that I crimped the correct grey wire on socket x14261. As the photo below says and many others mentioning it. It's the one on the top and it's black/black, the x14260 is on the bottom and is black/grey for comparison.

After, checking and re-plugging the sockets and battery, I tested again and got the right-turn signal working. I cleaned up everything and went for a test drive again. Unfortunately this time, I got the right-turn signal working, but then the DRL ring was not and the headlights would automatically turn on even when the stalk was in the "off" position as soon as I put the key in the ignition! Just my luck huh?

So I open it up again and unplug and re-plug the sockets and everything now seemed to be working again, and while it was all working I decided to just tighten the footwell module down while it was all working correctly. However, every time I would move the footwell module ever so slightly, the lights would go back to the same malfunctions as before. So I'm thinking perhaps the wires are somehow getting crossed and shorting (I don't really know what to call it) when I would fasten the footwell module.

It turns out the sockets and wires are pretty sensitive to how they were originally wound up. What I mean is the way they were coiled sort of or twisted from factory. When I was having the malfunctions, it was because I didn't twist the wires back the way they were, and they were too "loose" and somehow I believe that was the root of my issues.

I figured this out as I would push the wires and make them more taut on socket x14259 (yes the one on the front of the footwell module and I'd get the same effect of it being normal working and then abnormal--go figure). Making them too taut gave me lightbulb failure warning on just about every one of them. lol. So there is a sweet spot apparently.

I don't know why and I cannot explain it as I am not an electrician, but that is how I fixed it. lol. Took several tries, and if all goes to hell again tomorrow morning I am just going to walk to work.

On the bright side, I've gotten really good at taking off the wiper arms and accessing the bulkhead, and getting to the footwell module in about 5-8 minutes. I only hope I don't have to keep doing it so I can enjoy these LEDs instead of hate them.

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Congrats on your success! Now enjoy those cool halos

 

I was just doing some scouting under the hood to assess how much work is involved and was surprised to notice I can see the stock foglights mounted inside the bumper just by looking down between the grill and headlight. That got me thinking....if I simply remove both headlights (all 3 mounting bolts are exposed without removing anything else) I'd be able to reach down and have access to the fog assemblies. Has anyone thought of this and if so, why is it not possible? It would save the time and effort of having to jack up the car and/or remove the bumper.

 

SuperGreg had his installed with the headlights removed.

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Would there be any issues with headlight aim by doing it this way?

 

Nope. It's a complete assembly that all comes out in one piece much easier than bumper removal.

 

Does anyone know how to disconnect the headlamp washer hoses? I see a clip but am not sure how to remove it without breaking. Nevermindifigureditout.

UPDATE: Scouting expedition complete. It turns out the lower two T15 bolts cannot be removed merely with the room you have by removing the headlight. Even with the round access cover removed from the wheelwell the washer tank makes it impossible to properly access the lower 2 bolts.

Next week will be phase 2 exploration....remove the front wheel, undo the wheel liner and see if I can move washer tank enough for clear access. As far as I can tell, there is one plastic nut at the top end and 3 bolts that should be reachable from the wheel well. If I can move the tank enough this way it should be no problem.

I also discovered my left headlight lens has a stone chip. :(