When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
General MINI TalkShared experiences, motoring minutes, and other general MINI-related discussion that applies to all MINIs, regardless of model, year or trim.
Changed my worn out windshield cowl. The battery cover was broken and a lot of the weather stripping was breaking off. Took me a bit less than an hour to install. The cowls can be a little difficult to align with the underside mounting strip.
Also installed an ECS short antenna and a new GoBadge.
I checked fluids today, and refilled the windshield fluid. If the weather stays nice today, I hope to wash it and clean the interior. The window motor also needed to be reset which I did.
Installed a pre-made one ball found semi local last weekend, and 380cc bosch injectors yesterday. The factory(120k miles) injectors weren't keeping up with the additional air from the 17% pulley past 4k rpm... Now the entire rev range is available!
Installed a pre-made one ball found semi local last weekend, and 380cc bosch injectors yesterday. The factory(120k miles) injectors weren't keeping up with the additional air from the 17% pulley past 4k rpm... Now the entire rev range is available!
Just got my jcw 380s in the mail also. It still in the fuel rail.
Should i i replace the whole thing? Want to know what’s easier. Thanks
Just got my jcw 380s in the mail also. It still in the fuel rail.
Should i i replace the whole thing? Want to know what’s easier. Thanks
I'd install new o-rings regardless of which rail you use. It's easier to get the injectors out of (and back into) the rail than the intake due to crud buildup at top edge of injector bore. Also, make sure to blow off the area before pulling the old injectors and use a shop vac to get anything that remains before installing the new ones.
I'd install new o-rings regardless of which rail you use. It's easier to get the injectors out of (and back into) the rail than the intake due to crud buildup at top edge of injector bore. Also, make sure to blow off the area before pulling the old injectors and use a shop vac to get anything that remains before installing the new ones.
Thanks. Ya i dropped them off to get bench tested and cleaned. Replaced filters and o rings.
In the meantime i was able to install my freshly powder coated cabrio brace and new tensioner damper with poly bushings.
Speakong of poly bushing. Noticed my lower engine mount ones are failing already after being in the car for a week 🤷🏻*♂️
Odd indeed.
Especially that both sides of each little bush has an identical tear,
it sorta looks like a violent laceration --- possible road debris?
I just installed that set this past weekend too. I went ahead and included the black insert on the big bush, did you as well?
Ya. Can’t be debris my ps fan has no issues and it’s next to it. Nothing from powerflex. But ECS tuning is on point. They sending me a replacement one ASAP.
I have the yellow ones on the big side. I think the black ones are the raving ones instead of the purple.
edit. The black insert is he stock one that i snipped off the little tabs and inserted the yellow ones.
The putple one came with the metal cylinder that goes between the bushings
Ya. Can’t be debris my ps fan has no issues and it’s next to it. Nothing from powerflex. But ECS tuning is on point. They sending me a replacement one ASAP.
I have the yellow ones on the big side. I think the black ones are the raving ones instead of the purple.
edit. The black insert is he stock one that i snipped off the little tabs and inserted the yellow ones.
The putple one came with the metal cylinder that goes between the bushings
Good on ECS Tuning!
Ah,
I must've got a different one, I think there are 2 versions --- the one I did replaced the entire bush. I pressed out the stock bushes entirely and swapped for the PowerFlex.
I guess the other version is an insert which goes into the stock rubber bush?
The one I used comes with a black insert and it's optional as to install it. It adds stiffness as it is a harder durometer than the yellow:
Some people opt to leave it out due to increased NVH, but I like a little rumble in the seat.
Ah,
I must've got a different one, I think there are 2 versions --- the one I did replaced the entire bush. I pressed out the stock bushes entirely and swapped for the PowerFlex.
I guess the other version is an insert which goes into the stock rubber bush?
The one I used comes with a black insert and it's optional as to install it. It adds stiffness as it is a harder durometer than the yellow:
Some people opt to leave it out due to increased NVH, but I like a little rumble in the seat.
This is the one that I got:
Didn’t know that was an option or i would’ve gotten that too. Oh well 😀
Took it in for its first 10K service. Everything was good. Asked about a little hesitation I felt between 15-20 mph occasionally and after analyzing the on-board computer I was told that a couple of the tanks of gas I got were grade 2 not grade 3. Every tank I've bought has been from one of the same two Costco's near me and at Top Tier 91 grade the whole time. I did notice a couple of tanks ago my gas mileage was low though, so its possible there was a bad batch or two that was delivered to Costco.
How was it? The instal i mean? And did it make a huge difference?
The instructions included were good, except the R52 apparently has a center connection between the rear subframe and the body that the hardtop doesn't have, and wasn't mentioned in the instructions. We had to cut a hole in the heat shield to access it without dropping the exhaust, and then it was a real pain to sneak the old sway bar out and the new one in past it. I ended up unbolting the right side muffler hanger to get some more space. Definitely a two-person job.
Also, the bottom of the shock to control arm bolts were incredibly tight. I had to use a thread file before I could reinstall them, even with a pneumatic impact.
I'm about to drive it in the dry to see how much of a change it made.
The instructions included were good, except the R52 apparently has a center connection between the rear subframe and the body that the hardtop doesn't have, and wasn't mentioned in the instructions. We had to cut a hole in the heat shield to access it without dropping the exhaust, and then it was a real pain to sneak the old sway bar out and the new one in past it. I ended up unbolting the right side muffler hanger to get some more space. Definitely a two-person job.
Also, the bottom of the shock to control arm bolts were incredibly tight. I had to use a thread file before I could reinstall them, even with a pneumatic impact.
I'm about to drive it in the dry to see how much of a change it made.
Nice Keep us posted. This is my next mod. Just want to make sure i can do the instal myself. I have an r53
so i i have to drop the rear subframe no matter what i take it.
Today was a good day (in my Ice Cube voice). Installed my new BC Forged HB09 Wheels, painted Side Trim, and Sneed4Speed Side Diffusers! Thanks to MmotorWorx!
I'm in the middle hole, and it now feels dead flat taking 90° neighborhood corners without slowing from 25 MPH.
No, you just have to remove bolts from some of the rear attachment points and pry the rear subframe downward. Saves you from having to disconnect brake lines and everything else that attaches to it.
No hitchhikers allowed!
