Switched my cravenspeed rear wiper delete to killerallwipers delete, like the flush look better.

 

I did the same thing, go from Cravenspeed to Kill All Wipers.

 

Yesterday, not today. Fished in a new OBX header. Scratched my mini badge on the valve cover though. Have to find a replacement now because it'll drive me crazy. Anyone know a source for such things?

 

It should be available from ECS for about $17: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...l/71220933608/

 

NICE! Thanks!

 

That's at least - 500 lbs !

 

Yesterday, I received an "OEM" oil filter and 32 mm cap (from Way Motor Works)!

I'm going to buy some tools from Harbor Freight (car ramps, torque wrenches, security bit set) and do my "break-in" oil change this weekend (hopefully). I'm surprisingly excited to see what's under the bonnet/body and see what an oil change is like with a cartridge oil filter (all my previous cars/oil changes were with canister filters). Also, it'll be nice to not have to keep the RPMs under 4k =)

 

Make sure you use the correct socket on your drain plug.

 

Great! I recommend a Fumoto drain valve, too. The standard size fits my Gen1 mini, and I'm sure it would yours to. It fits VWs and Hondas, too, so pretty standard. The cartridge deal is cool, and doing oil changes with the cartridge sitting up top is nice, but it is hard not to make a mess. I'm not sure if your cartridge is up top like mine is. Anyway. Fumoto. Do it.

 

I'm planning to use the following based MiniMania's filter information:

• This 32mm socket for the oil filter housing
• A 13mm socket for the oil filter housing drain plug
• A 17mm socket for the engine oil drain plug
• An a ratchet, extension, and maybe a universal joint

Torque values:

• Oil Filter Housing 25Nm or 18.4 ft-lbs
• Filter Housing Oil Drain Plug 5NM or 3.7 ft-lbs or 44.5 INCH-lbs
• Oil Pan Drain Plug 20Nm or 14.8 ft-lbs

I also am going to grab a T55 Torx since I read some drain plugs use that and I don't want to run out in the middle of the job. I haven't crawled under my MINI yet.

Since the F56 has a drain for the filter housing, I think that should reduce the mess from the cartridge? But I'll have to try it out this weekend and see.

 

There are some really good YouTube posts for doing an oil change on the F56. Really worth watching for doing the change.

 

Installed an all metal pin my late father had owned for atleast 30 years. Not even sure how old it really is.

 

Got it fixed (head gasket and then uneven idle with big bog) - finished OBX header install and new O2 sensor. Running good now - on the road to recovery! My repair / restore / remod thread -> https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...air-remod.html

 

Did my break-in oil change. It was my first time using a cartridge filter system and it went very well. The panels were large enough and everything seemed to work right. I even had a T55 ready for the filter housing drain plug.

It also let me buy a bunch of new tools for this job (Harbor Freight!) which made things easier:
-car ramps
-torque wrenches
-socket adapters
-exotic sockets like those Torx

I found using the torque wrench was nice. I used to just cram screws/bolts on as hard as I could but I figured I'd use actual specs since it's a brand new car.

One super annoying thing was the lack of dipstick. I turned my car on afterwards and it said the engine oil level was okay, but I would need to drive it for 30 minutes before it could measure it... I guess I'll check it out tomorrow when I drive to work. If everything is good, then Poppy is officially past the "break-in"!

 

Installed my Ultra Racing strut tower brace, recoded rear fogs to brake lights and ordered this as well.

 

Nothing. It's been sitting with a blown crank pulley since last weekend. Got the parts from Detroit Tuned yesterday and now it is off to CMU 60th tomorrow. I guess I'll fix it next week and ask nicely for a rental tool extension.

 

Is that a rear strut bar? Please provide a link.

 

Dealt with the crank pulley a month or two ago on ours, too. Fortunately we caught it before it chewed up the timing cover too badly. Just make sure you have a long enough dowel to push against and it's a pretty quick job, really. I'm assuming you already have the belt tensioner tool, as well. That's what threw me the biggest curve ball. If you ever need to borrow a tool, give me a shout, you're welcome to after the bypass valve hookup.

Today a did a steering angle sensor recalibration on Grumpy to get rid of the DSC and TPMS lights. Has me worried that the nasty bump that made the warning come on may have knocked the front end out of whack. And I just aligned him, too!

 

Cleaned it.

 

Here's the link for two different ones:

Rear GP Strut brace

Rear seat delete kit- bar & net

 

I like the netting. How do the bottom corners of the net attach? I went to the site and it looks like there are two clips or something in the corners.

 

I bought one of these (42"x29" version) from my local PetSmart after measuring the back seat and then looking at all the pads in store to see which was most likely to work.

https://www.petsmart.com/dog/beds-an...ml?cgid=100401

All the other supplies I had at home. This took less than an hour.


Installed two grommets.


Removed two links from this chain.


Made two hooks.


Captured a hook behind each grommet on Paracord.


Snagged hooks on child seat attachment points. I had to open each hook up a little from the earlier photo.


Put a loop on one end of cord to make a 2:1 advantage on tightening the knot.


Finished!

 

 

First use. Went for a hilly five mile walk in the woods.

 

Not sure either, guess I'll have to wait till I get my kit.