Put in a new , shielded powrsteering fan.
nothing wrong with the other one , I just liked the looks of the protective casing on it..
Any idea why one fan ( my old one ) had a box thingy inline with the cable ?
I also hooked back up a gps unit and now the center info screen works again. I also installed a power switch for the waterpump so it doesn't need to run every time I key on. Since doing those 2x things , battery seems to be just fine again.
I replaced the other door speaker too.. dang it sounds so much better. Lol i didnt even realize both door speakers were fried. They bareky worked abd was all tweeters and rears and yet was still sounding good. What a great stock sound system this is.

 

Nice! Where did you source that shield?

 

Your biggest gain is still gonna be e85 with a legit 30-40whp gain. 6-8 degrees more timing really makes the Jam

 

Pending where you draw power for the water pump some of the under hood fuses are still on for 5 minutes after shut down. This is tied to the dme as link doesn’t keep them live.

 

I wanted to try n tune for e85 on my facelift ecu but I never got an answer back so I stopped asking..lol I even put in a larger fuelpump for it but awe well , atleast that's there.
Depending on how things pan out , if I get the tvs I'd really really like to get an aftermarket ecu then like youve told me to awhile ago. Then im gonna take the car to who ever , where ever to have the tvs and e85 along with other things dialed in that the aftermarket ecu will support.
I'd love to have launch control or boost by gear , id love to be able to run a flex fuel sensor and have it tuned for 93-e85..
trust Me , ive wanted to follow your advice more but if I end up getting expensive parts I need to plan it out in advance and things need to fall in line or the part is just unobtainable.

 

yeah it adds up quick. 250whp is eay the next 50whp is crazy expensive and from being around over the years 300whp hasnt been achieved without e85 or a turbo. Even with a stroker it will likely only see 280whp. The motor itself is knock/timing limited so to over come that be safe and get that last ooompf it needs e85 or another higher octane fuel. even with a tvs and rmw stroker it still cant get over the hump unless you have e85 or like lying to people about dyno results.

e85 is another can of worms with supply needs and stock system/saddle crap. Ideally to cut to chase a surge tank should be used or learn to keep tank level over 1/2 the demand at 100% throttle will drain the basket in about 3 seconds and when the tank is below 1/4 for sure the venturi style system cant keep in on that side of tank while taking long or sharp left handers under throttle. It all flows to right side under G's that and there is a fuel pressure regulator under the filter basket that determines max pressure the system can get to. stock setup was just never meant to run over 17 psi really. So you will see psi drop duty cycle go up etc. Ideally its removed like I have done or replaced with r56 unit to get the system able to run 5 bar. So reg on rail determines injector psi and in tank is max system pressure period. So they fight back and forth over 17 psi. On Gas its not a issue as the flow is not insane like it is with e85. So with Gas you never see the issue unless you where to run insane pressure from a turbo or something like 25-30 psi would cause this issue on gas but you wont see it with a supercharger unless your using e85. So lots of people comment on stuff/system with no experiance or setup to see the issues that arise. Everyone says ooh its fine the stock system bla bla all that tells you is that they dont make the power yet to notice it. Its not a deal breaker just have to be aware of issues when you legit make 300whp or more. If you dont see the issues your not making the power simple as that and again cant make the power without e85 or a turbo. So if people claim that power they are simply wrong as in the 20 years of people trying it hasnt been achieved without e85 or a turbo.

There is tons of limitations on the engine bottom line. Turbo is the easiest way to force power. But then you start cracking cylinder walls over time when making 375 ish whp. Stock rods are twigs etc. I have shattered a crank at the trigger wheel etc as well.

Around 350whp its not much fun to drive unless you enjoy wasting money burning tires not hooking up and spinning out coming out of corners. I would rather drive a slower car fast then a fast car slow. I can drive a sunbird at the limits of physics and have more fun then babby throttling like some 500+hp super car.

 

Also before I forget. If you do get the tvs. Get all new metal gaskets. Thats outlet horn and intake as well. Use blue rtv on both sides of them. Blue Loctite on the outlet horn bolts where it bolts to charger. Take apart intake feed tube rtv that and loctite that as well. This is legit imperative. All bolts blue loctite all new metal gaskets. rtv both sides of said gaskets. Take apart feed tube its a two piece affair held with three allens and a oring. Cant stress that enough. Also the bpv legit directly touches the boss on the intake feed tube. Factory had some amount of play and give so you never saw that. But get a smaller bellow type hose. MAke sure if you dont have the spacer for the alternator oil stick where it passes threw the tvs mounting boss on case to not bypass that as you will snap case ear if you torque it down without spacer. Download instructions from Aus Harrop site

 

I'm gonna buy the upgraded rmw billiet tensioner with it BUT I was wrong , it only the 6rib setup.. so maybe once I finally get it in hand ille decide if I wanna go 8rib or stay 6x , I will probably go 8x.
he had made sure to get and include the little brackets too.
I will look at that install guide Devil had mentioned then too. Lol I broke the bottom tab/ear off my sprintex because i tried bolting it on with the oem coolant block off plate , I didn't know it came with or needed oem modified for clearance and yeaaaaa , it snapped that bolt hole off. But thank God it's never hindered it in anyways but if I chose to sell it , I'm sure that won't help and the buyer will try and use that as a justification to lowball me so that's why I will probably just send it out for rebuild once off and maybe install it on my aero car with a cam n head too or just save it.. because I still arnt 100% sure which will make more power and honestly I think if the sprintex makes noticeable more power , it will go back on once rebuilt and then tvs the other mini.
lol I got alit in the air.
Good thing though. I stopped the battery drain , it was either having a 5x prong relay in a 4x prong slot OR my leds were draining through where I had em wired in.
the battery also came back as bad too so it got ANOTHER new battery.
I also ran the waterpump to a switch so it no longer needs to run fir 5min every time I key on , unless I want it to...
Gooooooowd , lol i wont be able to sleep until i have this tvs and even then , its coming to bed with me a few nights..lol
here's it once the seller got it off , waiting for it new home.

 

power wise guess I dont know. Mostly because I buily my system around parts that where developed to work/be together. So thats head exhaust intake mani and lots more. I can only say for fact what I make with what it was designed to be. Jan did 99% of the r@d and harrop produced it as a factory replacement. But the big power comes from the collection of stuff not just the blower. Even in the harrop vodeo. Craig who I personally know has all the same gear I do in those vids sans his wifes black car. Hell his car is used in advertising.

So what to expect with not a rmw head not rmw exhaust with miltek catback etc etc I dunno. What facts there are though is it does run insanely cooler. So when sprintex hits x/ammount of flow and the tvs hits that same same volume it will be at a lower charger rpm and way cooler. Cant compare psi as it doesnt mean squat. Psi builds heat as psi is what cant be shoved into motor so it heats up while it waits. So many people dont get that let alone psi doesnt equal volume or across things that make spinny power pressures lol. Its more effcient. Whipples are generally better and new tech but knowing sprintex from my lotus and jeep days they are just a inferior product design shoved out by companies like Jegs or Sumit who give a **** less. Not saying it doesnt make spiny loud power sounds for you or others. Its not a good design other than maybe the rotors. I am saying they could have done better. But they are a small company with a **** rep in the world of quality compnies like Eaton and Harrop and others who work with the community make changes spend money on R@D until its perfect. But I legit well I know it for fact it was a complete rush job slap together just get it to market afair becasue they knew Harrop was gearing up. The sad thing is they have tooling and molds and computer CAD/auto desk/Rhino designs and they just said meh it tech works it will likely last until warranty and its good enough. Bottom line they just didnt care enough to do more than they did. soft market low sales why bother situation. Again doesnt mean it doesnt spin and push air to make power and that you or anyone else likes or has success with it. i know for again fact if you spend one hour at road America with that car the case itself will swell up and hit rotor pack or worse weld it up inside. It just runs that hot. Not talking IAT or FMIC but the unit itself glows like a turbo housing with retarded timing on the track.


Eaton designed the rotors for 900 and harrop created the case design and all the various snouts to allow it to bolt to other stuff. Thats whats so nice. Snout comes off and so does feed part. So off the shelf parts can be bought to install those to the 900 cas and now bobs your unlce its in a 94 grand am with the quad four with a headgasket that will lift its head into the hood lol Also Dont port anything on that charger. Been down this route for over 50 hours on phone with the fellows down there. Its all ready at its max. They took it as far as they could and thats what we have got. So when you see porting services from Joker or other LSA porteres it will only ruin your case. Harrop went that route and there is no gains left to be had porting entry champer or the outlet design. Any change to the shape like notching or doing a christmas tree will **** your now dumpster boat anchor blower. Now for max top end this can be fabbed up. But this without better head better exhasut etc wont do anything. Cam too. I tried to be in you ear over the years to say hey get this or get that as if you had by this time you would be riding with my gear. So will it work sure be fun too. But it legit wont be its best without at least a (cringe I hate stages) stage 1 RMW head. the one on site. To get the bigger one yah gotta call. Stop typing it will affect your low and you CANTZ HAVEZ that Maaaaan! Thats straight **** and whoever put that in your head was prob in a Dahistu. You couldnt install valves or porting wild enough to make that happen. You can barely fit the 27mm exhasut and those you have to weld material and re shape etc etc just to install the 1.8+ bigger valve thats in the other head. Its all in cam sections.

Look I know you like to tinker thats cool. trade this for that wheel and deal like to think the lower cost part people bag on is actually great etc lol. Dont sell that tvs. Not until you wheel and deal your way into a rmw head not used either. Just keep slangging and save the pennies like I said back then. I know you cant just go spend 3 grand here or 6k there all ***** nilly. I couldnt either I dont have it like that. I made a plan and bought parts that could be installed right away to enjoy and repeated process. Hell I got my blower with the last of my students for my masters degree. So save dude. Dont tell yourself you dont need it or what you got or something else is just as good becasue in the end as you have found out you will finally admit even if in private corner of garage under a blanket all alone in dark...."Its not better" Roflmao. I would also pay to run your car as is on my local dyno. The same one I use so you wouldnt be able to say oh its a hardship dyno etc. I do believe you make good power and its likely around 265whp and 235whtrq Becasue like i said without using the proven parts that are documentead doing it your not currently nor will you be at or over 300whp Just cant happen. Couldnt hit that with a rmw head and a tvs900 either so. Not saying your ride isnt wicked fast I am sure it is. I just know the sum of the parts cant make that. Likw I said e85 legit will make 40whp. So you very well might throw a link ecu and e85 at your sprintex setup and be 300whp as it makes that much power. But then can the componets take all the extra cylinder pressure from the timing needed for that power.

No idea on your story not my buisness. But why oh why didnt you use the money on what I am saying over the other aero? I mean I know guy brain new car new toy new tinkering new car always better right lol. But again no idea how you got it maybe it was 500 bucks a Iola car show style thing. Gve me your four wheeler dirt bike and your wifes panties for the car type thing. Been there done that. Of course now that you would rather have cash the mini wont sell lol. Why Ihave learned to wait casue what ever I do in the meantime haggle side trade or purchase I will likely loose money or not be able to sell it. So dont and save lol.


Eventually when you do trulyhit this power level and start drviing like it should your rotating assembly will perish. Cant last forever especially making double the power double the stress interally and have you seen the rods so laughable. My 250rtx has bigger. Anyhow I digress. You dont need the 8 rib setup at all either. That was for folks that where doing pulley/crank setups the general public wasnt using and if i recall it was released before he had the 6 rib with the corrected arc geometry so it was used as a temp solution. The issue is where it mouts and the arc on the arm are no longer right so it slips. But if you ad 2 ribs it doesnt or less. But he fixed it proper instead of a hack. So dont waste money or money on Kavs tvs garabage. The car will never make 350whp without some insane cam that ruins it for street or you up displacment and the stroker is like 5 grand or more and to me not worth the small gain. So that leaves turbo lol.

 

Good points Devil..
I DO wanna go rmw head n 469 cam on my aero next.
Tvs IS ON ITS WAY HERE !!!!!!
I do have a tpr2r head on this car and ns1 cam and ported sneedspeed Manifold so it absolutely can and does breath very well.
a rmw has never been tested v tpr2r ( only the Jesus head v a tpr1 , NOT FAIR ).
I WILL install this tvs on this car and test to see what power it makes. And while it parked , together over winter i will send off my sprintex to jonbond performance shop and have it rebuilt..
then i can have 1st hand feedback on which sc is does what and how the perform v one another amd then how they both compare to a ported facelift sc with 19% pulley on exactly same car and setup so no variables to be argued.
and I disagree that boost is a measure of restriction. That's incorrect, I gotta argue this..
If boost is a measure of restriction then how can you put on a restrictive intercooler and NOT gain boost BUT LOOSE boost ? Then remove the ic. , increase the flow ability and watch boost rise.
to simply say boost is a measurement of restriction is a lazy way to put it because there's far too many variables to account for , like a turbo and supercharger boost different..
a psi is a psi. 1psi means my engine , at its current elevation is compresing the air that amount , in my engine , where im at , at that point in time..

 

Found the cause of the parasitic drain , I had the wrong style relay in my waterpump harness. It was constantly grounding that circuit and I actually went out after the car say a few days to remove the old fuse and it was actually warm for continually grounding. So I know what destroyed my last battery now.
I hooked up a remote battery disconnect too but it's not really needed now though it is still very useful because i have a rear seat delete panel ect in my rear so climbing through the hatch to power on the battery after the trunk accidentally latches isnt fun. My underseat pull wire has never worked either ofcourse so now when I park the car for extended periods, now I just click the button to disconnect the battery, that simple !
check out my seats now! now when I get asked if they ARE recaro seats my answer will be " focaro , yup , i got focaro seats " ...lolol

 

Those seats bro! 👍

 

thx , I HAD TO put on them logos..
the seats actually do seem to get the most attention.
I'm actually trying to work out a deal and get a carbonfiber hatch. Then if i got the cf hatch and tvs , i will only be a vented carbonfiber hood away from literally having the r53 i always dreamed of...
Things are really starting to fall in line...

 

Volumetric efficiency. If air is being processed at a 1:1 rate no pressure builds, as again 1:1 rate. If its being produced at a 2:1 rate it means only half of whatever cfm is moving is used and the other half backs up on the inlet valve which produces positive pressure. Again if the power adder and engine can work at a 1:1 no pressure will build up but max power is being made becasue again 1:1 ratio. Now engines are rarely 1:1 perfect VE. Slap on something that produces twice the cfm as the VE ratio it produces what we know as boost pressure. Its a pump. Its basic physcis and VE. For more in-depth science pickup Corky Bells Maximum boost. It is the industry standard bible on the topic. It pertains to anything that moves air into the VE equation and theory.


Is boost a measure of restriction?
One way to think about boost pressure is as a measure of the restriction to flow. So, if you create more flow in and out of the cylinder, then the same HP level can be reached at a LOWER boost pressure - because there is less restriction to flow. Or, more HP can be achieved at the same boost pressure


Your Analogy is because of increased volume not restriction. The Volume is larger to fill which means it now takes more airflow to make up for that volume. Just so happens that the smaller blowers we use can rarely makeup that much volume and create the pressure difential at that increased volume. Bottom line....MAth lol;

 

Regardless I can again only comment on my build and my experiences. Honestly if it was a bone stock car with only blowers changed likely not very exciting. I just know between two companies Harrop will always have your back while sprintex again in my experience's will shut the door on your face from a CS stand point. But I am sure I could make similar jam with one just a diffrent set of cavets to deal with. I do know again on a road track for even a half hour session get nuclear enough to cause damage with comparable drive setups to achieve the same result from either the m45 or tvs. Again from first hand of knowledge of their hit and run development styles. The car just isnt good at making power without one off expensive stuff. Nobody cares and their is no market to invest for a return. Not like a Civic or 3rd gen mullet machine. 250whp is easy and can be done under 5k with stock blower a head and legit dyno time. After that its all a pissing match and another 10-12k at least if bought new. Enjoy what you have play around and just be happy. Most people who arm chair build or bench flap their gums have never been in even a 250whp mini so there is that. Breaking stuff and intense mental acuity for throttle management sucks when trying to have fun. I would wager most people who got behind the wheel of my car would either **** themselves wipe out or just have a terrible time and I am sure the same could be said about your car.

I havent driven mine in months because it bores me. Especially that there is nothing else to gain or do. Nothing left to upgrade its maxxed out as a whole. It doesnt scare me and thats over 320whp and I just de tuned it cause why bother. Same fun detuned as maxxed.

 

It's HEEEEEEEEEEEERE !
BIG thanks to fellow member jawZ for waiting on me to get the cash together to be able to afford this off of him. He's got some gooooood parts on his engine so if your looking for some gofast stuff , check out his partout thread in the marketplace section.
talked with him quite awhile and serms like a very legit dude for sure. I hope he's excited as much about the turbo kit as I am this tvs..
and after looking at this tvs , the size of its boost tube.. I'm GOING to try another bmwv12 throttlebody with this blower and see if with more downlow boost , if it will negate the low-end lack of intake velocity. So I guess now I'm glad Noone has bought my custom made intake fir those throttlebodies..
I gotta head up to my cottages for a few days and make sure everything is tidy from last time I went up and had to **** stuff down and get it winter ready. So while im up there i will binge on install guides for the tvs just so i dont overlook anything AND i gotta figure out how to reassemble this wmw billet tensioner too. So once i get back home , its tvs time baby !
I'm really looking forward too to having the stothese, stock ported , sprintex AND the tvs all side by side and post pics showing the differences...
also ALSO , if I get a few things sold this winter and after the sprintex is sent off for rebuild I ABSOLUTELY wanna go full aftermarket ecu then too. Up my injectors, go e85 and all the other extras I will be able to do with that ecu like launch control ect..

 

Looks like his locking tab broke to on tensioner. If I get time I will make another one for you but don’t know when. I don’t see the little billet spacer either.

 

hahaha dang your good man . impressive you seen that TINY detail.. that says alot !
but yes unfortunately he forgot the spacer and had no clue about the locking tab..
I have multiple aluminum spacers exactly like that so I will be able to cut one to size ( could measure one for me so I know exactly) also with that locking tab. Coul I cannibalize a stock tensioner for that stop ? It looks like there is a way to put one back in it..
also where can i find the bekt length for a 55mm pulkey and billet tensioner ? I wanna 2x check its the correct length and if i can run this belt with a 2% crank or not. Id think i could but idk how tight the belts run..
also anywhere it says the amount of oil it requires? If also like to put new oil in it.
EDIT : the guy foubd the spacer and the aluminum T pipe too i might need so hes sending that out so obce here i will get at it.

 

About that, I was looking into one of those cf hoods back in 2011 and decided not to do it. The key point being the crumple factor, apparently the brittle cf doesn't provide the same rigid crash protection as the conventional hood material and completely eliminates the engineered "crumple zones" in the event of a crash. So it's more prone to suffer significant damage in a small fender bender and also more likely to allow serious bodily injury during a big one. Combined with the cost and the limited availability, I was convinced not to do it. I was shopping the option for the sake of trimming off some of the front end weight, but I did find something even better. There was a guy documenting his track build MINI and for dumping unnecessary weight he recommended gutting the roof, I can't remember how much he said it weighed, but it was a lot. Swapping the glass sunroof, support board and motor assembly for a well cut piece of plexiglass not only made an impact on the overall weight of the car but also improved the handling. He said it dramatically lowered the center of gravity and the car felt noticeably sharper in the turns.

Have you thought of 3D printing that vented hood? I saw a video just the other day where someone 3D'd a fastback hardtop for a Mazda Miata, made the car look exotic af! Not sure what the material cost and everything was, but the end result looked very impressive; my guess is it was cheaper than making it out of chibben-fibber. Hell man, you could probably 3D print it and wrap it with a quality, cf pattern vinyl for half the price of actual cf... it would still be brittle material, but at least it wouldn't cost an arm & a leg

 

Are there any Dyno plans currently for these projects? (both of your builds) I've been reading through your extensive posts and you have put a ton of time and, I presume, money into these endeavors. I am curious to know what sorts of results you are getting in "real numbers". I am asking because I am not sure about the "butt dyno".

Inspired by your work I recently did a few little things to one of my cars and the results were impressive and then after a tune from Adrian, even more impressive. He initially said I should be around 220hp (before we discovered my injectors were larger than I thought)- That said, after the tune the car really "feels" like there is WAY more power than I could have imagined. I always thought the mini was quick and peppy, but now it's insane. I cannot imagine how much more insane it could be!

So, since your builds are leaps and bounds over what I have done (and my car really feels like a little rocket ship now)- I am curious to know how much more you're squeezing out of your cars.

 

I’ll get belt lengths when I go into garage. Wouldn’t run that 55mm long term on stock head and cam. Cylinder presser will be at its limit on those pistons. Likely over 20psi which you don’t want for any length of time. Only reason it will be that high is from crap flow through stock head. Also iat are fairly high with that pulley until you at least get a cam with more overlap. No stock tensioner tab is press fit. The rmw one has a little cap that comes off and the end of Tab is bent to lock in like this.

 

lol Devil! I've told you numerous times..the car is far from stock. Tpr2r head , nsi cam ectectect , it will be fine.. i also have a wideband and numerous other stiff for monitoring so i will make sure it doesn't lean out too..
my iat too will be absolutely fine , I'm running a grs charge cooler that cools my sprintex 100% fine so should only be that much better with the tvs..
I currently see 19psi on hot days and can see 20-21 on 50' days so I DO need to have the overboost light tuned out.. but I wanna check to see if I'm going to need more fuel added or not with the tvs , I assume I'm going to because even rite now , I'm a tad lean at 11.5-12.5 under boost but never know until I get it on and test.
BTW, ecs is providing me the tensioner stop and new belt and p.o u got the tvs kit from found the spacer and y pipe he's now sending out.

 

Thought it was going on aero

 

after I install and test in on this car , which ever makes more power the grey car will get. But in meantime while the tvs is installed I will take that time then to send the sprintex out for rebuild. Then I will set aside the sc that makes less power and wait until the aero car has more supporting mods then it will be put onto that car..
unless UNLESS I obtain a Jesus head and 469 cam only then will the white car for sure get the tvs. Then ille have my own version if a rmw type build and then the other will be built with all parts that have gotten a bad reputation.. for all I know this tvs very well make decent more power than the sprintex , I just don't know.. buuuuuut were gonna find out very soon..
thx for that visual too , now I know how to reassemble the tensioner.

 

Lots of it also comes down to tune and while email tunes can be good or even great most of your power will come from a proper dyno tune where the timing can be handled properly. The power on these engines comes from timing. I would rather make the power with the lowest boost possible and keep cylinder pressure in check vs high boost low timing etc.

Stock tmap and fuel system was a issue for me until I went to the link. The fuel reg in the bottom of filter basket also became a issue with higher boost as it regulates over all system pressure while the reg up front handles the actual ijnector pressure. Once the in tank one is over powered it cant keep the line pressure good enough so it opens and dumps back into the pump side of tank as a over pressure venturi over flow.Which means up front the rail is demanding say 65-70psi to compensate for boost the in tank reg cant provide that so the system pressure goes down IDC goes up to make up for the pressure so it just fights back and forth with itself. And again most users and even tuners never experiance or know about this becasue they never dealth with a car at that level of power/demand. The quick fix is to grab the reg of the r56 filter basket and replace it with ours as its like .5 bar higher than ours. Even the dw65 if it hasnt failed from its self which is a known issue cant keep up long term with the deamnds. So you will start to see the issues as well as the power level/deamnds creep up. Its a nig reason why I know people arent close to 300whp as they dont have these issues yet. Its not a oh my car or your car thing eiter it will happend to all of them once they hit this level becasue the stcok design of the saddle fuel tank is the issue not a per car thing. So its not like oh my fuel pump or oh my setup this wont happen thing. Its just not come up yet becasue the deamnd hasnt been there yet. Its why crap gets expesnive and there is not way around it other than start to change crap out pumps lines injectors again not a oh I have done this or that thing again its just you havent maxed out the stock system becasue your really not making what you think you are. Once you start to have fuel supply issues you will know you have hit the 280-300whp ish range. Especially when you can drain the pump basket faster than it can be re filled which happens on corners when the fuel sloshes to other side and your trying to supply the injectors 70psi andf the in tank reg is wide open dumping it gots and the system pressure bottoms out. You will see what I mean. Its a real issue and again not something you will see here much becasue so few have gotten to this level and those that have dont bother coming here to talk about fixes or issues as its pointless to discuss here. Which is again why small niche groups have popped up on the Faceballs aka social media to discuss in small groups amongst them selves. Otherwise hit the old RMW forums read everything in every sub section and piece it all together. Again this is not something that one can say wont happen to them becasue again its just a limiting factor of the entire fuel system BMW shipped with the car and any one change like a fuel pump alone can fix. I have a fuel tank from a euro deiseal as its not a saddle per se but its all just band aides to a complete custom surge tank etc system. Which again means $$$. Your going to run into roadblocks when you get close and thats how you will know your nearing that 300whp mark. Car is a money pit at this level to handle itself basically. Its def fun but you will also start to call BS on others that claim this power level becasue you will know all the **** that wasnt good enough that had to be addressed and changed that they magically havent had to do like there car or combination of magically parts is good enough but magically only they could assemble lol. Welcome to the I know what it takes and others are full of crap club lol.