Here is a example of how it looks vid is even a mini. Will let you marry keys and reset the dme keys to marry a new dme etc. Program BCM it just rocks. Some google Fu will provide free download locations. Throw some dye electric grease in the tmap connetor for a test too.

 

Unfortunately my inpa is stuck in German so I'm limited to what I can do with it...
but I will hook it up n check all I can after I got the new rear hubs in. The rear passenger side was so bad it was kinda hard to turn even and wow does it grind , i cant believe i didnt hear or notice that sooner..
I also put in 2x replacement tmap sensors and them smoke tested the intake system ( found 0 leaks ). I also 2x checked wiring , plugs ect..only some what concerning thing i found was the #4 injector adapter felt like it wasnt seating as well as the others but i doubt thats been my issue and its probably not even an issue i just get **** about things and need it everything to be as good as i can get it.
I got the old hubs off no issues and the new ones were suppose to be here today but they got delayed a day so hopefully they'll be here tomorrow and I can get the car back together and see if I have fixed either the trifecta lights and or the p0108 code coming up..
I also wirewheel EVERY bolt that comes off before I put it back on too to help prevent them from seizing in for the next time AND it just makes it looked nicer when you look at it and even the bolts have little to no corrosion on them..
haha , yes , I literally clean every nut and bolt with this car...

 

Curious if Nastase disabled the overboost code for you. Isn’t the P0108 usually thrown when you max out the tmap sensor?.

This is another good reason to go standalone since you can actually use a 3bar map sensor and boost happily at 21+psi.

Also, not sure if you mentioned checking this already. The trifecta lights happen to me when I pull the front bumper and forget to clip the blue speed sensor back in place then it gets snagged somewhere after reinstalling.

 

Sucks your on other side of state. I’m sure I could figure it out in a few hours in person. But still even with a normal scan tool you can see both maps and their voltages which will tell me a lot. You have a dmm? Understand resistance continuity etc.? If so I could walk you through some tests. Your 550 will be close to maxed on petrol as well.

 

Soooooo I think I found the issue now that the new hubs are on.. it still throws the trifecta and then instead of resetting after the certain distance instead of clearing the brake light illuminates and then immediately upon restart I have a cel for p0500 which is bad speed sensor so I gotta return the ones I got a try a different brand..
when i wss test driving the car began to stall and not hold idle.. long story short i found a prong in the tmap harness pushed in ,SO THAT once I put another new harness in that spot has fixed the stalling issue and tmap code issues.. also I thought it was my tbody at 1st so I put on the 3in tbody , yes , this one's not 65 its 70mm and it DIDNT fit , I had to hog out the bolt holes so I could bolt it down flush BUT OMFG OMFG OMFG. It made the car 2x AS POWERFUL !!! it ALSOOOOO HAS NOOOOOOO throttle lag like I ALWAYS got using the 65mm direct fit bmw tbody. So idk what one I was sent but wow , it is soooooo much better than the 65mm one I'd found initially few years back and tried numerous times..
maybe it's the tvs being able to overcome the downlow loss it used to have with the sprintex and mp45 but not now. None , I can't believe it..
Sooooo I'm hoooooping once I get new sensors in it fits the brake issue..
I ALSO got a link ecu AND flexfuel kit lined up to purchase come January.. so this car will OFFICIALLY be stepping taken to another level. I can't imagine it pulling harder to be honest than it does now. Befor on the sprintex it was useless in 1st gear at any speed..lolol now I got that amount of power even in 2nd gear..haha now 1st gear AND 2nd gear I need to feather and ride the throttle so it doesn't just break loose the tires and spin.and my tires ARE good tires too..
maybe it's time to step up from a 205 to a 235 or atleast a 225..
with my 10mm spacers I will absolutely have the clearance but idk how far they'll hang past mY fenders and im only ok with a few mm past..

 

Yeah if only someone suggested pulling that connector and even ohmimg it out or looking at voltage values in scanner

 

lol your welcome to buy me the diagnostic equipment and teach me to use it but until then I'm only limited to what I have and what I know how to do. Atleast I'm tedious and don't mind taking my time and starting at the top and just working my way down visually inspecting stuff. Thxfully ive trained my self to spot issues or things out the norm.
but I atlesst did find it... when youd mentioned the harnesses i remember i replacemed it ladt year because of the same thing , a pin coming loose and not making connection. I actually had it happen with the crank sensors too , I had to also replace that connector.
I do have an ohm meter but ive tried watching howtos and all ive learned was the basics, very basics with it.
and my inpa too limits me because everything is in German but atleast i can do live data still with it. Thats how i found the cam sensor wasnt working...
do you know if inpa can read the individual speed sensors while the car isn't moving ???

 

Glad to see all that work swapping is finally paying off. Yep I bet the tvs is loving that 70mm throttle . The 65mm I put on never really made me too happy either, even running the pedal.comander . Then again I do have the dreaded stutter at around 2800 to 3500 and it made the issue more pronounced . Anyhow seem like u are at the point of no return now , but in a good way .

 

Yes. It’s in German because your English file isn’t setup regardless it still shows number values and I know enough German to know what’s what. Throw some dielectric grease in that plug.

you can’t fu@k around with the plug you need to depin and repin with fresh hardware or if that crap happens full boost e85 link your gonna bend over and take it

 

BTW, witch the wheel sensors in the pic. Do the darker blue ones go in the rear and light blue in the front ?

 

If you have an android, open up google lens. It will live translate.

 

light blue in front as they are shorter

 

So I had a rear sensor in the front. The 2x fronts I ordered, one was a rear BUT it still had the front wiring setup on it but it definitely was a rear sensor.
so once I put in the new correct sensor , i reset everything via inpa and within 50ft of driving all the brake lights turned off. Sweeeeet.
ALSO no cel anymore either , car runs fricken great too.
I couldn't get on it much because it's 35'F and raining but I dod drive around about 45min or so and the car drove absolutely perfect.
I ALSO put on the 10mm spacers too and it still didn't throw any brake lights so its looking better , driving better , seems faster amd now I will just get it cleaned up and into hibernation mode , then once I get the ecu and hopefully if i can afford the flexfuelkit too with it , then once I got that itle be time to find someone somewhere within 3hr max out and have it custom tuned..
gowd , frustrating ! I hate when a part is bad when brand new and your going in circles because you expect new stuff to work..
And i used my grinder and took off about .5in of the front jack pads so now i should have no issues fitting any jacks underneath. I also ordered a special attachment for my javk that will fit rite into the jackpads too. As much as i work on my mini itsvthe simple little things like that that make things go more smoothly.

 

Aquired half , well , hoping the next mod but I'm afraid I won't fit my 16s iver these BUT I'm gonna try and if it's close and I can grind abit of material off the calipers, I will. But if not I do have my rims and tires currently up for sale or preferably trade for some 17s or possibly 18s.
​​​​​the calipers are loaded with pads amd ready to be installed too.
but I'm gonna put back on the stock ported throttlebody and do a few test drives and see which feels better now that the car is running rite. Then once i get a few things done on the aero cooper then i will get to these brakes because thrn if i need 17s it can just sit on jacks until i Aquire a set.
im hoping i can swap over my ss off of my r56 calipers onto these brembo since they are the r56 ones..
with the calipers I'm going to remove the jcw logos and put on brembo decals because that better suites this build.. had these gone on the other car I absolutely would have left them as is..
anyways , here's a pic !

 

Sweeeeeet THEY CLEAR MY RIMS ! they WOULDNT had I not had et20 offset With 10mm spacers so for 16in rims to clear these calipers you'd need an offset of et10-0 but THEY do clear the wheel weights also..
I bled them and hot the brake pedal a few times and they felt good so I will go for a little test drive tomorrow then rebleed them one more time and then go test out the brembos and tvs... how sweet to be able to finally get these.. gowd im excited to try them out..
as you see I removed the jcw decals and put on brembo decals too..
Check em out !

 

LOL, those JUST squeeze in there! Those are 16's too... Nice. You're at an effective +10mm offset? Get any side shots yet to show how much the wheels stick out?

 

If you scroll up a few posts you can see... even with the 10mm spacers and offset my rims and tires STILL sit juuuuuuuust inside the fenders..
the widebody flares really are useful..

 

This is sure freaky weather for us yeah? I had sent you a pm about tuning. I’ll still be around a bit. That being said I can also remote login to your link. I’m excited to finally get my rb25 c5 project underway.

 

 

Yeah it can be depressing when you add it up and realize it "Only" makes X amount of power compared to say 30k into a civic or F body mullet mobile. Still they handle like no other car I have experienced before.


Dont forget to get that Can Lambda from him. Did you ask for it specifically? Also I can again help you via team viewer.

 

pm's full mate

 

Congrats on getting it running! Sounds good too, even without the blower whine. Have you ever used Draggy? Or another GPS based measurement system? I'd love to know your trap speed through the quarter mile, or other measurements like the 60-130 times.

 

when I had on the sprintex and stock ic , not warning up the tires and on a backroad this was my best 0-60 I was able to pull ( I suck at launching it ) and If I remember correctly 1/4mile best was only like a 13.2 or 13.1 but it was riiiiiiiiite there to where I told my self I could definitely get into the 12s.. my end goal for track times I'd loooooove to see atleast a 3.9 0-60 and sub 12second 1/4 mile so I could say my car a sub 12sec 0-60 in 3seconds car..granted the times are at the end of the spectrum but hey , id still be able to say it and not be lying..
i know it's fast now but I can say it's a 4.5 0-60mph almost 12sec 1/4 mile car..
and that's not even what this car is built to Do. I've put so much into the suspension and stuff so it will be able to put the power down snd stay planted around even the tightest turns. I will soon have to upgrade though from a 205 wide tire to hoooooping to fit a 235 but will atleast go 225 wide. Then too befor I hit the track I will have my suspension adjusted from aggressive dailydriver setup to strait track setup because with all my adjustable stuff I put on , I'm allowed that luxury..
BTW, the times were recorded with torque plus on a galaxy tablet with an elm327 obd dongle.

 

Not judging you, but those 1/4 mile times sound like equipment error or driver error you should be hitting 10s or less with that build you've got there. Back when my JCW was only 5 years old (I sound like an old timer ) it was pulling low 11s on a certified drag strip w/o drag slicks. The best time I remember was 11.12, you should be dropping down into single digits with some high 9s or better with ease. Also, if you're slapping some 235's on there, be prepared to cut some body panel, roll fenders and rivet on a wide body kit, because you'll be heading straight into Rubtown Merry Christmas!!!

 

lol dont he afraid to judge me and give me your honest opinion , thats why ive made this thread..i like hearing other peoples input. If i do some wrong , lol let me know so i can correct it.. this is how I learn..
definitely driver error , when I was recording the times lolol derder I was letting off early and coasting probably the last 1000ft or so ALSO i was getting belt slip at high rpm then too because it was befor i had the upgraded tensioner.. but your rite , i wasnt giving it its best and the car also wasnt running at its full potential because of the little issue i was working out yet...
Also when it comes to running the 235 wide , I shooooooould be " should " ok because I got et20 offset on my rims WITH 10mm spacers AND I DO have the widebody flares on already. Once get the caster/camber set to track spec too , that should give me aluttle more clearance too.. I think when the tines comes i will just find a cheap junk used tire the size i want and have it mounted on one of my rims and use that for test fitting..
merry Xmas buddy !!!!!!