As mentioned before I have went through 6 of them under warranty until I used pwm control on link to run it. So far so good. Otherwise it’s running flat out all the time even when thermo is cold and I think it’s just to much back strain on it hence the drill hole in thermo like I said.

 

The low end will come back with a proper tune. Some added timing will spice it up. Also statically different devices one is a compressor one is a pusher/blower

 

Have you found your local kwik trips with a dedicated pump yet?

when I did my own Dyno tune I got VP 98 for purity sake so I could do a absolute e85 tune that way my blend ratios where perfect. But you should at least find your local stations. Fwiw I also have 20psi right at 2500 but could be my 4% I will check logs from a few years back. Guessing your lack of umpf down low is timing. Even 2 degrees could be a heap of torque and power

 

Hey if your car DOES NOT have psi sensors INSIDE the tires, TPMS valve stems, then it uses a combination of other sensors to know if a tire is losing air. Anytime you change rims, spacers, tires, tire pressures, it can trigger those lights because the car senses a change and thinks there is a problem. Perform the re-learn procedure and drive it again. The lights should stay out assuming nothing is failed.

Edit: I should say if the car doesn't have TPMS valve stems from the factory. If it did and you removed them, ignore the above post.

 

yes we have numerous numerous full time e85 gas stations here , when I do go e85 , I plan on filling up at woodmans gas station because that is the goto station actually within a big radius. All the other e85 guys go there also so it must have the most consistent ethanol rating or something.. I will have to talk to the next guy I see pumping and find out...

 

I did try driving the car about 10min but was having waterpump issues , replacement pump should be in later today along with the new axle..
so once I get those 2x things on , I will drive it a decent drive then ( my tires are gonna HATE this cold , lol bye bye traction) and see if the lights turn off.
but I'm leaning towards a bad driver's side sensor that got wrecked by the torn axle boot either impacting it or the grease has massively contaminated it or the tone ring BUT I did try removing and cleaning the sensor and area but it had no effect..

 

Gonna go put in the new axle today along with new front side marker light because I pulled the wires out of one removing my bumper..
also scored a new jack for black friday and a forge intercooler for 370$ for the aero mini ( though lead time on that ic is 3-4weeks ) but to get it brand new at that price , I couldn't pass it up..
the jack also baaaaaaaaaaaaarely fits under the mini but it does so it's gonna be nice now having a new dual action jack. My other one failed for the 3rd time , it's my 3rd one too like that and each one failed literally exactly at 13months of use. I constantly have to burp it because it's internal seals are junk and one of the pumps on it doesn't work as its wedged down lol but hey , atleast it still did what it had to do. I just hate spending extra time looking for something or trying to make a tool work rite so you can fix your car rite..
when I go to get a tool or something I need to knowtots there and it will do its job...
I will lyk more how i feel about the tvs after being able to test drive the car more.. but i dont like tgat my car has lost that god almighty scream and i liked the sprintex smooth ic horn and the shinnier casing so you instantly knew the car had an aftermarket sc. This tvs , unless your know exactly what your looking for and at , it looks stock on the engine. Even utilizing the stock horn then too.. it definitely has the sleeper aspect to it thats for sure lol but my car IS NO SLEEPER lolol things is a " marshmallow " as people have referred to it until they see under the hood or see it run.
Anyways , hope you all had a good Thanksgiving and with winter coming , please respect the weather and stay safe !

 

I've been filling with E85 since 2019 all over southern Wisconsin including a trip up to MN and the content has never varied by more than 6% total. I have an ethanol content gage and check every fill-up. Usually spot on 72-78%. Mostly Kwik Trip, but the BP in lake Mills and Casey's are often 10% cheaper than everywhere else for some reason.

 

In eau Claire it’s all over map Casey is for example 53% Hyvee is also 53

sounds like you have all the local skill and experience needed. I will defer to them.

 

Welllll , new axle didn't fix anything not did cleaning the sensor , area and tone ring. I will try removing my spacers tomorrow and see if they're the cause..
I got the replacement pump in and car finally stays cool. So i test drove it awhile hoping the brake lights reset which they never did.
I'm DEFINITELY going to need a retune though though at wot is running 13.5-14.5 afr so it WAY lean. Idk I'd I bother with a retune or do I just start saving for the aftermarket ecu now ??? I'm kinda scared to take the aftermarket ecu plunge because I'm afraid I won't know or be able to find someone to in person or how adriancl tuned my car , remotely tune.
I also have 0 steering wheel wobble now , the lower balljoint was SHOT so i have all 4x new balljoints and control arms put up so I grabbed a balljoint and installed it. Thxfully the old one came out with not much fuss , ive done enough now I learned the tricks.
so I will post back once I find the cause and fix for my brake lights..
aaaaaaand it throws a p0108 code too with the colder weather as i saw 19.5psi today with 35'F temp.
the new wheel sensors should be here in the next day or two.
I ALSO bought a new jack that fits perfectly unser the car , it was one of two blackfriday scores i snagged.
​​​​​2xthe other was a forge intercooler for the other mini , I scored that for 380$ and the jack 98$ only..
lol thats all i have to show for selling my sprintex. I gave the rest of the money to the wife for xmas shopping.
aaaaaaaaand i put in the new replacement side marker because I tore the wire our the other one accidentally.
Lol look at my wheelwell filling up with tire tire too !

 

 

Have used these guys before think his name was Brent went above and beyond on my first petrol link tvs tune


https://www.trmtuning.com

 

If your running lean is it safe to assume the new blower is pushing more volume?! 🤘

And if you have a dsc/asc AND tire light on: with the key on and engine off, press and old the tire pressure button below the e-brake until the dash light flashes, then cycle the key off and take it for a spin. I had those lights come on for ball joints, a tie rod, and a bad cv. They don't reset on their own though, I had to perform the relearn once fixed and they went out after I started driving. There is also a problem on some of the early cars where the wire gets pinched by the ebrake itself, might be worth looking into.

 

I ran an Adrian tune for about a year with a 55mm pulley and now run a Link. It works on the stock ecu but your leaving a lot on the table. The difference was night and day, and then added E85 and it was another huge upgrade. To be honest, I wasn’t impressed with the TVS initially but now the car is really fun to drive. Go flex fuel asap to really enjoy it.

 

I am definitely going link... e85 s9pn after but i shoukd be getting my link in beginning of January !

 

unfortunately the reset did not work for me.. i dod check all wires too and theyre fine, I'm pretty **** about things.
I absolutely agree on the sc pushing more air causing it to lean out , so once tuned it should definitely pock up power.. I'm probably going to hold off on retune and wait until I got my link ecu.

 

Went to clean passenger side sensor and of course.. had to remove the hub partially and knock drill and knock of the broken off sensor. But I cleaned the tone ring on this side now and have it all ready to put the new sensor in and on drivers side then too since I just removed it it should come out easily.
I sprayed cleaner up at the rears the best I could , I even shot it through the lug holes hoping to clean the sensor and rear tone rings because they're not as easily accessible.
I removed all 4x spacers too so once I get in new sensors hooooooooooooooopefully the lights are off and then i can try the spacers again.
atleast the balljoint was like new yet on the passenger side I swear I replaced both of them but I guess not. I must have only did passenger side..
Once I get all this brake crap figured out i am starting to save up for the link ecu i will be getting from same guy i got the tvs from.. lol he will have gotten back good money on his parts , I definitely arnt getting the parts at the bargains I typically do amd go for but unfortunately the car is to the point where there's no more nickel and diming it... you can't go fast for cheap , lol I hate that saying but it's so true..
aaaaaaand I will probably be upgrading to the catcam 469 or even the strait race cam 464 ( which I had but sold derderder) too once i get the aftermarket ecu , then thr car should have NO problem with overlap and holding idle ect.
Lol more rubber coated wheel liner.

 

As seen on the cam chart I uploaded to the thread already, your current cam is close enough to 469 that it doesn’t pay to swap them. The 464 I know you won’t like based on our chats over years. Moves the power band to far up for your likely street desires. Great on track as you worry less about over throttle coming out of corner if at a lower rpm. At my build level and likely yours your coming to an end of what can be done without either added displacement ie stroker or turbo. Just the way it is. The tvs can only offer so much as well as the 1.6 I already maxed the tvs out in terms of volume as told to me by Harrop and others. So no real power to be had in cams more so just moving it around. Again I’m not in depth with your head so no idea on sizes shapes or what springs and retainers it is. Chances are you might have something left in that regard but I’m only familiar with rmw stuff. Same could be said about header it cst back no idea on yours not a pissikg match just saying I only know about rmw street header with mill tech cat back. But I’m sure he cost vs what you might gain out swapping to parts like I have could be iffy unless you came across some good deals etc. I never really played around with other brands as in my research before building I laid out what was known to do what I wanted etc. so I purchased things that where developed with each other. Was expensive for sure and did lots of waiting in between the final product. Took 3 years of saving. Lots of bull ***** as well. I would love to get the 1.8 but between cost and trusting I would get what I paid for I have given up. Lots of cash and stress for little gain. Same reason I never got the ultimate veicomer head from Portugal. To much risk shipping a core across ocean waiting hoping they are honest and then the trip home as they refused to source a core in their country which put me off.

My opinion would be stick to your current cam. Also with the 464 comes the need for legit springs and retainers plus extreme checking of clearances With Valve and piston as it’s extremely tight. I decked my block plus head plus custom crazy thin head gasket plus specs from cam being less than .5mm on my setup etc. lots of risk in that regard if your not gonna pay or familiar with engine internals and spec cam etc. but you would be surprised what you get with a fresh build on your short block. Plus piece of mind, took me ages
to find a crank I could use and from trusted person etc before I went and cryo and machined

 

I found I forsure have a bad rear right hub but the ducking lights WONT TURN OFF , they will once I reset them for a slight second and all 3x immediately come back on. After new sensors ( sane brand ones that worked in my other 04 r53 )..
but something is really wrong , now too afttoo2nd restart even without driving it has a p0108 code too..
I'm ordering rear hubs and if that doesn't fix it , **** it , it's done and being put away for the season and ille stsrt parts stacking for wgen the nice weather returns.
sooooooo frustrated ! I spent so much time too cleaning the rear of the hubs and the tone rings.
EVEN WITH a bad hub the lights should turn off after reset and all come back on after 50-100ft of driving afyer it detects a bad hub..
could I have installed the vacuum lines wrong ??? The 2x that are rite next to each other that come out the top of the tvs , one goes to the map sensor and the other goes to the brake booster , even though they're rite next to one another IF I have them mixed up , COULD THAT be the cause of the brake lights , running very lean AND the constant p0108 code ????

 

Nah doesn’t matter all are pre blower so vaccum lines. One pcv on left valve cover the rest you know


make sure the map wiring isn’t pinched or corroded green. Map could be bad but yes if that map was bad it would run jacked up as it works based on differential between the tmap and map


check grounds where you installed water pump.

also check the hose for that map isn’t pinched too. Fire up scanner and see what the upstream map is saying


check the tmap wiring in the intake as well. That is usually super corroded bad. Tmap intake map thermo housing

 

Check your fpr accum hose too. Assume you cleared the code too yes?
Sudden lean would tie into fpr hose coming off. Is fuel pressure going up with boost?


dsc and other lights do come on when there is tmap map issues as the dme can’t configure torque based tuning and freaks out it’s what sucks about how the factory car is tuned based on torque values not ve. But if the tmap or map is borked it will throw dsc and abs and limp mode as again it can’t figure out what’s going on with torque values dsc etc.

again pull tmap connector and see if it’s green inside chased this myself wiggle would work then back to crap wiggle it again etc

check the tmap voltage with the car off. If it’s pegged there is a short connector or bad sensor

But first things first we Eliminate the map and tmap so pull voltages from them with car off and running. Wiggle connector and see if the tmap jumps around voltage range. Even though it’s an over boost code it comes on for all sorts of other **** including leaks on charger intake and bpv and positive side leaks. Again starting from a professional stand point check voltages and that fpr line. If you have external boost gauge the idle values should closely match the tmap also make sure the tmap temp portion is working

still could be over boost but if you clear it and it comes back without going into boost….,

 

I smoke tested it , no leaks. I 2x checked all hoses , wiring and clamps. All are fine..
Everything was reset via inpa which showed no root cause either for all my issues I'm having..
I'm just so pissed , what a waste of money , time and effort this has all been. I wished id just left my sprintex on. The car was great with it , had 0 issues , sounded ****ing amazing . Now it's issue plagued , sounds n/a and needs to completely redialed in... totally TOTALLY not worth what I paid and amount of time it's taking just to loose boost and the supercharger scream...
had I not sold my sprintex, id be putting it back on in a heartbeat....
There's ABSOLUTELY NO LEAKS .. I was very abal to use new hoses , new clamps, rtv , copper gasket maker ect.. i checked too as i put things on actually to make sure they wernt leaking too.. i even smoke tested it afterwards.. ive cleaned all the OEM sensors too that are ALL either nearly new or new....
my boost gauges also shows too I obviously don't have any vacuum leaks... all of which too it shouldnt be throwing that p0108 until I'm under boost and it's throwing it at just idle now... I've tried swapping ,map sensors, crank , cam ect all again with absolutely no change in anything what so ever.... this is all coming down to my engine and evu just NOT liking this tvs.. it hates it as much as I do and it's punishing me for getting rid of the sprintex...

 

Well I understand but if I can help I will and you need to let me know what i asked for me to help which first means watching both map sensor values and pulling that connecter on tmap and verifying its not green nasty. If the code is live at idle its likely a tmap and map issue. Either dead sensors bad connectors or wiring or a vacuum leak. I understand you smoked stuff but still need to verify in hand fpr line etc. Apologies if you did that. But again you will known much more with either inpa or scanner hooked up so I can see what the tmap and map are doing when car is off key one and when running.

I understand your feelings right now been there done that and especially with the money. But reality is its not the tvs thts the issues other than your visceral issues sound etc. Facts are you disturbed a lot of stuff removing and reinstalling things and its likely something stupid or was already close to faulty like iffy wiring or connectors with bad pins inside the tmap again is legit legendary for this with loose pins and green corrosion. All that aside logically the blower is not the issue but again the fact that you ripped large portions of things moved things around bent set aside laid draped this or that over this or that when apart. I have a complete wiring harness here if you need things like connectors with sections of good wiring pig tails basically.

I would wager its again either a connector that is worn even if visually inspected the female pins can be worn and allow for crap connection also known issue and many cases on the forum. The weather pak seal on the tmap dries out and doesn't keep moisture out over time as well due to heat from rad and coolant hose. Anyway check the tmap values please.

 

I've actually put on new harnesses last year because of loose connections but i will check those values with inpa probably tomorrow. Its just too cold today . Just a crap season we got this year.. no spring, mild summer and a cold fall..unfortunately my frostbite on my hands makes it so I have to be verrrrrrrrry careful with letting my hands get cold or otherwise they become useless and painful...

 

I hear yah. They put brine and salt down up here in Eau Claire last week when we got a dusting so mine is off road till spring after several heavy rain falls. But yeah its to fu*king cold I agree. Its not in the BS zone yet aka below 0. I will await the massive heat wave in march aka 40f lol.

108 sucks becasue it can be from a bunch of crap. But with the dsc it usally means the dme is freaking out becasue it cant find a torque value which is how its setup for fuel timing etc and traction so if it cant determine wth is happening it assumes the wheel must be spinning etc and freaks out and throws dsc with the 108. So its a multi crap fest. I have seen it from crap bpv hose connection which is a pia on tvs as intake tube has no give or from the map hose on thermo cracked etc.

You should install ista-d its the actual dealer level software and it has a host of stuff and is way better than inpa which is basically just a factory scan tool and only displays values and has basic test functions. Ista will run tests on every sensor and system and then tell you what to check or look for if something is wrong. But it would for sure test the tmap and map and then tell you if they fall outside working values. It also rocks for bleeding abs as it has a built in procdure more than inpa. After it tests something it displays the facotry manual as well on screen. Its just all around better. I still use it for body and brake functions even with the link installed. Check it out.

Shiz and giggles is your ambient air temp working? Mine was pinched and shorted once and casued all sorts of gremlins. Ista would run down all the faults on every system and dme bcm type setup on the k line and can line inlcuding the kombi which is the main center hub of car.