Jan wont likely tune your car once you tell him you did your own e85 kit and not his. Just how he is. He used to not sell the tvs tensioner unless you got tvs from him. Just one of his many lovely qualities.

 

Can anyone PLEASE show me exactly hpw the waterpump mounts on which transmission mount bolt and the orientation along with where I install the T pipe ??? I believe the t pipe intersects the waterpump and block and the t goes to that metal pipe that runs along the cylinder head and intake ???? Then on side of pump to radiator???
About to install the sc , I will go at it tomorrow. The last 2x things arrived abit late to late today but I got everything prepped and all surfaces cleaned up , new gasket and sprayed both sides with copper gasket maker ( always do on metal gaskets )..
I attached pics showing all the sc's side by side with exception of a plastic oem boost tube.
idk , based off looks alone , the tvs900 definitely has ability to flow more due to its better designed / larger boost tube and the stock supercharger hat IS larger than the sprintexs also. The top outlet under the sc hat is ALSO largest on the tvs BUT I feel the sprintex, though small is a much better /more direct air path. Buuuut that is an outlet so maybe that gap on the TVS won't hinder it as the air may just flow rite past.
the tvs and sprintex have the sane size casing which is abot fatter and longer than the stock mp45. And the the inlets behind the boost tubes , i think the sprintex and tvs are the sane size just different shape bit theyre both far far larger than the mp45 WHICH IS PORTED on that end.
as far as rotor design, the tvs's rotors are as aggressive and as large as the sprintex which then again , both are larger than the mp45..
So based off appearances alone I think the sprintex and tvs may be close as far as boost and power but the tvs ability to flow more with larger boost tube and sc hat I think that alone is going to help it outperform the sprintex. The ported mp45 with 19% ,though as nice as it is , it's nothing compared to the sprintex. It boost only 2-3psi max less BUT the sprintex builds that max boost SO much sooner in the rpm band. Yes the sprintex runs hotter than the mp45 BUT it doesn't run hot enough to pull timing or cause detonation. With its 60mm pulley and my 2% crank it was OK even with stock intercooler BUT running a grs motorsport, gp or a grs charge cooler DOES help it stay cooler and gain abit more power due to lower iat. It also suffers only 1psi boost loss with either of the listed intercoolers. The mp45 with 19% atleast with the grs motorsport lost 2psi.

 

You could just pm. Havent you downloaded the instructions?


here have a look




https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...A&opi=89978449

 

 

 

Pay attention to all the worm clamps as its a **** hair between them and the fan blade. I have uploaded the manual a bunch of times to thread but there it all is again. Best of luck. Be gentle with the coolant tubes. They are soft aluminum. The tvs flows more cfm at a lower rpm. Its all in the pressure map. Here is the map. Science ftw. Cant argue with the map. I have the sprintex one some place but its not as efficient in the cfm range/ratio that matters most. Ones mans experiance vs the raw data is all you need to know for what flows more. One is compressing one is pumping.

 

my man ! Thx you.. I'm gonna try and use all pressure style clamps if I have enough , I might just go buy more because i prefer those with coolant hoses as they can expand and contract with the heat..
also I spaced out my front core support with about 3/4in of washers to give me more clearance from the fan shroud too if I have to more , I will.

 

Just gotta rotate them to correct angle so they dont knick the fan blade and cut the tabs off. Also dont put it all hard back together leave it partiual in front service mode and bleed to pump with everything else off. Just hard wire the pump. Then start playing with the bleeders with and without the cap on over flow jug. Its a Forking Biatch to bleed. fwiw I burned threw 5 of those pumps before I started using the link to control it via pwm. Drill a hole in your thermostat so it has flow before t stat opens otherwise its pushes into closed thermo. The pumps are the weak point for sure. They have replaced everyone for me for free but I bought it new. I am switching to a meizer pump myself as these dont last more than 10k ish miles for me. But again I started using the link to control it so its not full blast all the time and its been 9 months and 13k so far.

 

BTW, that an adjustable fpr you got on yours ?
I'm going e85 and 630cc , I wonder if it be beneficial to run one also...u have a 340lph pump and gutted fuel basket.

 

You need 1000cc bare min for e85. Others have done the leg work so you dont have too. I have a dw400 pump. 630cc will not feed 300whp on e85. Please trust me on that. Cost is the same 630 or 1000 so just trust me and get the FIC 1000cc. You need to try to get as close to what I have as possible so most of my settings in the link will transfer to yours. You can run a pressure sensor off the end of the stock fuel rail. You dont need like what I have unless your just spending money ot taking up hill climbs etc. I take mine to Road America and Pikes peak etc. But again 1000 is bare min to feed 300whp on e85

 

You want these. Same cost as 630. Use these they are reputable not the place to skimp for sure. At this stage its not the time to try diffrent stuff or gamble. To much at risk. Also cant use adjustable reg with stock rail so as I mentioned before its a can of worms that gets expensive fast. So for now stick to stock reg and rail dead head system.


1000cc FIC Mini R52/R53 Fuel Injector Clinic Injector Set (High-Z)

 

Some other fun TVS bits to oogle over.

 

And this nugget for shitz and giggles

 

I dont know how the copper sealent will apply here fwiw. I was told by Clayton at Harrop and Craig (Craig owns the cars in the Harrop promo video) to use rtv at every mating surface on both sides as well as blue loctite on every bolt. I can say after about 20k miles I did have 2 bolts on the outlet horn back out a smidge. While not hard to get back in there it is a pia if you have to drain coolant again. Which is why I always got pissed when the water pumps **** out on me.

Again Ryan Clayton Chris all really good dudes.
Check out this twin charged tvs setup. 500whp if I recall. Lots of cool builds off this forum for sure. As you can tell most of what is posted here these days is very basic stuff and no real inovative builds or any builds at all really other than basic ones.

 

The copper gasket only is used on the metal gaskets which I've used now on every car I've ever done and not one have I ever had one of those seals leak. I did apply sealant on the bolts in the supercharger and boost tube yes. I also used black rtv around the gaskets surfaces that had the rubber seals in the middle like waterpump flange and boost tube. The throttlebody gasket I watched seal down as I tightened it down even so the gasket seated well.
I been really taking my time trying not to forget or overlook anything.
I also useed hard but barely flexable boost lines made sure all clamps were tight and 2x checked. I will 3x check and mark everything tomorrow befor i put back on the core support and test start.
the belt Jan provided me WAS the correct length belt the 6pk1364 was definitely definitely too short with my 2% crank. Even as is I had to have full pressure put on the tensioner to be able to barely slide the belt over the idler pulley then. It fits very very snug so u can't imagine any belt slip.
the sc , alternator, waterpump ect , everytime went in without having to hack up or force anything. O ,I did have to enlarge the bottom retaining bolt bole by the bottom of the sc that also holds on the dipstick on the bottom. I also used pressure clamps where I could on the aluminum except for one spot because it just wouldn't hold well and only a worm gear could prevent it from allowing coolant past or sliding out of position.
I also got a bmwv12 tbody to try again along with my 3in intake for it to see if that or my current poryed tbody and alta intake makes more power..
then once I got everything all buttoned up and throttlebody setup figured out , then i will be doing the bigger injectors and e85 but ONLY once I got everything up n running perfectly..
So far im very pleased with the simplicity of the install. I only had to undo a thing or two but everything fit as it was supposed to and nothing needed any major modification.. simple simple things. It HAS BEEN EASIER than instalation of the sprintex but I did have the old style tensioner not the gpr tensioner then and that was 95% of the fight was the old tensioner and no belt tool..lol it tool some ingenuity and patience..thxfully I haven't had to go through anything Remotely close to that with the tvs..

 

BTW Devil , I DIIIIIIIIIIIIIIG that widebody kit.. absolutely BEAUTIFUL !!!!

 

Did you get the link? If so did you snag the can lambda too? Did you buy his e85 kit or do you need larger lines pressure sensor content sensor etc? I just gave all the info to Thomas above


Also remember it’s insanely quiet and any noise you will get is without a normal air filter. I know that bothers some folks but I rather enjoy the stealth approach. I always wish that if I wouldn’t loose power I would love the stock exhaust note. Not a big noise fan unless 2 stroke or Rotary. Just draws attention. That being said everyone always comments on how my car sounds at 8500rpm. Your build is really coming together.

In your comparison pics you can really see the difference in the output volume potential. I like twin screws as well best of both worlds but in this case I still believe the Harrop case with Eaton rotor pack is superior. Richard from uk did that lyshom and it was a beast. Same fellow who chopped the roof as well.

i csn help you with base file but your setup has to be close to mine and wired the same as well. Meaning sensors on same output lines and calibration files etc. Not hard to change that stuff or setup but requires lots of specifics. Sounds more complicated than it is.

 

G

Complete fill up of 79% and elite car wash at kwik trip for less than 40 usd

 

As stated on YouTube it’s virtual silent due to helix/twist. Only way you will even hear a small bit is to run without an air filter. Other than than that the m45 is 2000% louder then TVS. It will sound like a N/A engine.


Just the way it is and again all over the rmw thread on the rmw forums that I linked and again are a plethora of info on this setup. But like the instructions you gotta visit the link

 

Future reference

 

I'm gonna listen to Devil and hold off on e85 until I got an aftermarket ecu and more sensors then too. Buuuuuut progress has been going smoothly.
I got everything buttoned up , tightened down , 3x checked every hose clamp , bolt ect. Then u fixed 2x spots where the intercooler coolant lines were beginning to kink and then finished plumbing that and filled it up. I will burp it tomorrow once I put on the new 10mm Wheel Spacers and lingers bolts. I gave a fellow mini kid my spacers because his rims were rubbing after coilover install. I like these much better anyway, now the wheels sit PERSONALLY flush and the spacers have a lip so they're easy to lube the rim onto.
I also filled and burped the coolant. I use a clear hose to suck the coolant down through the radiator by making a sucking over the bleeder hole and I create a vacuum and then fill through the reservoir and it ALWAYS has it burped for me with out having to heat cycle and burp it.
so tomorrow I will finish putting on the front end ,get on the rear spacers and burp the ic system and then it's ready to rip !
O yea !!! My NEW alta intake WONT FIT with the tvs either , no way , no how will it line up. It unfortunately too short. But thx MR COOPER no one bought my custom 3in intake because it fit perfectly !!!!!!

 

Great progress adam, build is coming along very nicely . 👌

 

Really is the best and safest way to run your major investment. You will have a 91 fuel map and a e85 fuel map. Then anything in between 91 and max ethanol will be fine. Ecu will do fancy maths to determine what to do between the two fuel maps. So if you have 51% it will blend between the two and be safe run fine and so on so forth. 15% no problem. Going on road trip dump pure 91 in and get 45 mpg etc. But your covered no matter what it will determine a blended setting and it runs that. Its just epic. No guessing no testing e85 content at station with a test kit etc. Like I said it varies from say kiwk trip to kwik trip from tanker to tanker. Now lots of times you find a single station near you that is generally always the same but again your not tethered to that station etc. For road trips 91 for fun e85 becasue sure drive ethanol like grandma can still get 25 ish mpg on hwy but when I dump my foot down all day I get around 8mpg on 83% when hammering it. Which again is why 1000cc is bare min for injector at these power levels. My best/worst/funniest mpg was 75 miles for 13 gallons of 83% because again at these power levels it sucks legit that much v8 or even Rotary economy lol. Smells so good when you get pulled over cops will ask if you have been drinking from exhaust smell lol.


Most importantly is the timing maps being blended more so than the fuel

You will love it you will feel comfort in knowing your covered in terms of reliability and safety from detonation and random % variances and you will just know you have done the right thing wihhout testing and loading maps all the time which would just make you loathe/hate ethanol. Its not hard to setup at all. Just a little costly but then again you have piece of mind and after all whats the price for that? Knowing your setup to run like it would from factory with Flex fuel. AGAIN FLEX FUEL setup. OEM like performance. And again another 40whp AT LEAST! Night and day difference that you wont believe until its actually on your vehicle. It will be like going from stock pully to a 15% that noticeable and even beyond that pending how knock limited your motor is and they are knock limited especially in the 2500-4200 rpm range where MBT will be found. As Dr Frasier Crane would say....I'm Listening!!!

 

Welllllll I have some problems..
ille start with the good.
Car is all together and running , I was able to take it for a short drive until it started overheating periodically. My coolant system is plenty bled. I found the pump I was given is intermittent. I 2x checked wiring which is all good and I didn't even unhook it , I just plugged it into where my sprintex pumps harness was. The pump literally WONT turn on and begins heating up the fuse even but once I give it a few whacks , it turns on and sounds kinda clattery / clanky you could say. Then I get flow for awhile but not good and then the pump will completely cut out..
but while I could test it , honestly, I'm on the fence about the tvs. Hoooooopoooonestly , it DOES make abiiiiiiiiiiit more power BUT where it does make that extra power is only above 5000rpm , under that , I feel the sprintex boosted better and provides a much better low end grunt. The sprintex boost was instantaneous but the tvs takes abit to get upto full power. I ALSO very VERY much liked the sound of the sprintex, it had that old-school high pitched supercharger scream but the tvs lolol the tvs is SO SILENT I can ACTUALLY hear the air going through my intake through the throttlebody and change sound and pitch as the throttlebody opens and closes.. lol how weird, I literally can't even hear the tvs.
Devil had told me it was silent but you'd think you'd hear it atleast sooooooome atleast at full throttle or high boost but NOPE. Kinda cool though to hear what my engine and exhaust actually sound like now. Loool before all I could hear once it made even 1psi was sprintex.
hey Devil ???? Is my waterpump installed and plunbed correctly ???? Its mounted on the far right trans mount bolt and it is plumbed to the tvs hardpipe that come out the block and the othe side has a T pipe and also goes to the radiator. The that T pipe , the T'd line goes to where the stock pump would have had a 4in hose go onto ( a metal pipe ) that runs between the cylinder head and map sensor.. is that correct routing????
Or am fighting a lost cause and need a new pump ???
other than the 2x issues ( brake lights and intermittent h2o pump ) it runs and drives pretty gosh dang good actually and pulls pretty gosh dang hard in those higher rpm. Lolol my daughter could tell too it was faster. Soooooo soon as these kinks are worked out then ille try the bmwV12 throttlebody..
I also ordered a new axle already and just ordered 4x new wheel sensors...
with the traction control lights on and and abs ect ? Could a torn axle boot and grease on the sensor have ruind the sensor and caused the lights OOOOOOOORRRRRR is it because of my 10mm spacers and hella lot of wheel offset.
aaaaaand thereS NOOOOOO going back either because the sprintex IS GOOOOOOONE , gone to a new owner who now can experience that beautiful beautiful scream...
atleast the day ended beautifully......
any pointers rite now guys would be a big help.

 

Didn’t read whole thread but pump is dead that’s what they do get crunchy sounding and work for short period like a starter when wacked. Csn confirm for sure that’s a dead one