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[QUOTE=The Devil Z;4626945]. I actually think he sold that and went to spec miata as it was less drama and more options in the performance choice department and again he is a track junky.
I think I bought some rims off of him awhile back.. he had a green ,widebody , fully built supercharged miata and the rims i bought off of him he told me were for his mini he'd sold...I wonder if it was the same guy..
The miata was high on my list actually when id gotten this car ONLY reason i settled on this mini over the other few cars I was looking at was the price , it was priced to move and with it having a lower mileage trans and engine juuuuust put in. It was a no brainer..then I find this car had a bunch of nice parts on it and over time I found out how well this car has been taken care of..THATS why I decided to end up building this one..I had an 06 brg aero mini but it just wasn't upto my standards so I sold it and invested into this mini..which I'm soooooo glad I did..this cars an absolute BLAST to drive and unlike alot of other sports cars I've driven where it's almost a chore to drive them , this mini is just perfect for me..
well not that one buuuuut it's like my same intercooler BUT it has a liquid cooling system and pumps to keep it cool..
sooooo throw some ice water in that system , get my meth setup and GOD I'd love to hit a track day event and really put my car to the test and see how it truly performs. Though im a novice driver i learn very fast behind the wheel so I'd even let someone rip my car around the course so I could see and hear my car in action and see it's potential...I know it won't be anything spectacular but I have been putting this car together to do JUST that.
fwiw as I said earlier when you have meth the stock intercooler suffices no matter what you think about flow or anything else. Meth can be used as a replacement for a intercooler in projects that dont have space for one. So any money you spend after a quality meth kit is seriously wasted money.
You will likely figure this out the hard way though but the info was put out to you.
fwiw as I said earlier when you have meth the stock intercooler suffices no matter what you think about flow or anything else. Meth can be used as a replacement for a intercooler in projects that dont have space for one. So any money you spend after a quality meth kit is seriously wasted money.
You will likely figure this out the hard way though but the info was put out to you.
I hear ya. But if I choose not to run meth I want the best cooling I can have still for it... just kinda a back up measure. So i could either run meth or fill my ic reservoir and run that ,like say for a long road trip or something where I'm not going to be hodogging it around...
buuuuut wouldn't having a cooling charge though allow me to use less meth to keep things cool ??? Or with the temps its seeing it doesnt matter ?
Last edited by MiniManAdam; Jul 11, 2022 at 02:48 PM.
Meth kits installed..I'm only running a #2 nozzle but even with that tiny amount , my buttdyno definitely says it was working..was almost 90'F yesterday and high humidity and no matter HOW hard I pushed the car it was always just as peppy as it was the 1st pull.. I'm probably going to switch to my #4 nozzle as from what I've been reading and others are using , a #4 should be good..
Its cool , when the meth activates the gauge does tell me the injection amount but I like that I can just barely hear the pump behind me pulse as it Injects the meth so I know forsure forsure she's a squirting. I wanted to throw in the #4 nozzle and go do some more road testing but unfortunately it'd downpouring today ( though we needed the rain BAD ) so that's going to have to wait..
I ALSO am selling my strut bar and I've ordered a carbonfiber bar I believe is made by racing dynamics??? I got it from emnotek.com it was NOT ONLY 15-25$ cheaper than anyone else they ALSO provided free shipping too !!
ALSO i gave up making my rear seat delete ( covid ,meth install and new ic install next ) and ended up ordering one from a uk company called jcclubsport.store so hopefully that gets here sooner than later so I can tidy up my trunk area in my car. I really really thought about stripping my interior but I just couldn't bring my self to do it. I LOVE the comfort and interior styling PLUS I HATE RATTLES and as it is even with all my suspension upgrades n mods I don't have much cabin vibrations AT ALL. My trunk panel rattles just abit at idle because of my cam n stuff but I do plan on 2x sided tape behind it and some larger press fittings to hold it tighter hopefully.
soon as I have enough I'm planning on buying a different intercooler once I have enough $$$ ( probably will have to be at the end of the month or if I sell few more things ). It's an oversized intercooler like mine BUT it has bars and plates welded on it so it functions as BOTH air cooled as well as liquid cooled with its own separate reservoir and pump ( FRICKEN SWEEEEETNESS ) . Soooooo with ice water running through there , my ic sprayers misting away and my meth injecting, this sucka should run as efficiently as it would in the winter...
I'm also now running my dinan throttlebody as I like it better than the v12 throttlebody. I NEEED to do abit more testing so ille have to buy and report another stock throttlebody. I can port them out to almost the sane size as the v12 throttlebodies but the blade cannot be changed so it does still have that choke point but even then , the ported stocker I felt was outperforming the v12 throttlebody.. idk if the ported stocker was better than my dinan or not. It definitely was opened up larger than my dinan but the dinan has a 3mm larger throttle blade installed in it so technically it should flow more , I'm considering porting the dinan like I do the stockers BUT there's no internal lip or edge I can see that the throttle blade runs on and I CANNOT touch tgat surface one bit or it wrecks the throttlebody and they will never idle correctly so that's why I have not ported the dinan all the way..
so if anyone is interested in my ic I'm currently running I'm selling it WITH brand new kit to completly install and run your very own intercooler sprayers..
As soon as your afr/lambda dips you’ve gone to far. You can very quickly loose power and lots of it. Remember you want it to lower iat you’re not making power unless tuned for meth and I would not tune and add timing with that kit so there is map switching capability. Your best way to pickup a **** load of torque and power is to finally ditch that ecu and setup a flex fuel system and run the corn:
As soon as your afr/lambda dips you’ve gone to far. You can very quickly loose power and lots of it. Remember you want it to lower iat you’re not making power unless tuned for meth and I would not tune and add timing with that kit so there is map switching capability. Your best way to pickup a **** load of torque and power is to finally ditch that ecu and setup a flex fuel system and run the corn:
I do need an ecu..i.just don't know who would tune for me then.. I absolutely wanna go e85 too and have more control over stuff like launch control ect..
Bummer...even this #2 nozzle is causing it to go too rich..my tune i know was tuned anit rich.. I'm going to talk with adriancl, I messaged him..
I need an ecu like devil said..I just wish they weren't 1000$+ then ontop of that I have NO CLUE who or where I'd get it tuned..but that is ideal and I'm going to be looking into ecu upgrade after my new intercooler purchase..
Lol this stock ic isn't gonna cut it..it's terrrrrrrible. Runs like 30-40' hotter than my other ic I sold..
I also got the new strut bar and it's exactly what I needed..now I can remove just the bar and not keep having to take the nuts on and off the struttower studs.
I should just say F that intercooler and go better ecu...
Devil?? Help me out man ...sway me towards an ecu... I could probably afford one then if I skip the liquid cooled intercooler but dang , it's a very rare ,good intercooler.
Last edited by MiniManAdam; Jul 18, 2022 at 07:52 AM.
Cheeeeeeeeeeck out how the new floor is coming !!!!
I have the rear bigger piece fully attached , it velcros to the front part of the structure which I secured with screws to the back of the passengers footwell. I then put hinges on the back so it open up from the front behind the seats abd allows acces to my meth pump and some storage..I gotta hinge the second shorter piece to the middle also so it will give some storage below it also and then I can also access my battery if need be...idk if I'm going to hinge it or just velcro it because I will have my meth tank on the right side over there and it's gonna need to be cut to clear it for me to open it OR I can leave it as is , put a latch thing on the back sides of it so I can unlatch it , fully remove it and then flip up the carpeting in between that block stuff from the battery well and ground wires n stuff..
im also waiting on Adrian to get back from vacation and we are going to discuss my tune and stuff to get my car running the meth kit to its full potential..im sure its gonna take some logs n stuff but the man knows his stuff so I just do as he tells me or suggests.
Best bang for your buck in current state is the catcam 469 and Adrian. You won’t loose drive ability or hardly and low end at all and your mid range from 3700-8000 will be insane. Idle will be fine. For 500 bucks you get the cam and the tune and a wicked
on the pipe experience. You don’t like it and yOi will sell the cam and switch back for minimum loss but again it’s all gain. People who say otherwise are bench builders and just spitting out what they read and not what they experienced. Now the 464 that’s a different story.
if you really have thumpers big head you will pickup around 15-20whp from the 469. The feeling will be like going from stock pulley to 15%
hey bud ? I still wanna do this cam , would you still be willing to do a job fir a cash price ??? Sometime in September or early October... I also have my ns1 cam that'd be coming out but i don't think that'd be of any use for you... if you can't that's ok u might have a few other sources to try.. I did help with my last head n cam install but I'd rather not mess it up on accident because I'm an idiot..I know my limitations and unfortunately I don't wanna attempt it..
lmk your thoughts....
I may be interested in the ns1 if the price is right and you can't move it otherwise. I very mildly ported my head, wish I'd have been a little more aggressive on the exhaust side, but it falls off in the higher rpm and I think it needs more cam. I have bigger injectors already and want to have Adrian tune mine also but I don't currently have a laptop good enough to work.
Sorry man I dont work on cars for the public anymore. Its a really easy job should take you about a hour to do. I think you should get the 464 catcam. You will be most pleased with midrange and up with that. Your boost will lower because the engine is consuming the air so dont freak when you read about that. Obv if the engine consumes more air the back pressure/boost goes down if that makes sense. Boost is only a measurement of what's stacked up behind the intake valves waiting to go in. So more air in and out means more efficiency means lower number same power level from a lower boost level. So you will see a 2-3psi drop but still make the same or more power. Its like if you throw a stock head back on you will see 25-30 psi because the head flows for ****.
You will loose a little low end not much though. But above 3500 you will see a large difference. You just learn to drive it different. I am still very linear but above 4500 on my setup is almost like a vtech type thing when the cam comes on the pipe. It allows me to lower my psi and heat but make more power. In my case I jacked up the boost again with a custom one off 4% ATI shell and 53mm pulley but I again tvs900 and rmw tensioner and 8 rib setup for massive belt wrap. I know most wouldn't like to hear it but if you drove mine it would make you think yours was stalling out or standing still. It is that much of a difference especially on e85. But I also have tremendous amounts of money into the engine. So much that I am not even going to share. Getting over 300+whp is not cheap or even sane.
I am also not saying your car is not quick or fun either please dont think that. Just that there is a massive difference. My car is purpose built though from internals on up etc. Lots of people are not going to pay 1500 for 4 pistons and rods or 1000 for a crank. But I figured I wanted to build it for 600 whp and run it at 300whp etc. My internals could handle 600whp and are the same as EVA Bombers. If you get spare money it would benefit you more to get the RMW/Alex/Mahle pistons and Molnar rods more than a intercooler. Piece of mind means more to me than extra hp.
These where designed 100% by Alex not Jan so don't believe that at all lol. Jan doesn't and didn't and never did design ****. All of the RMW stuff was contracted out and he slapped his name on it. But these are what Alejandro aka "Unbreakable Lump" wanted to do to begin with that Rover denied due to cost.
Also for valued info this site has way better info then NAM ever could or would have. Good thread on Cams. Motoring Alliance FAR better and technical info then nam as well.
Where and how is your veloicty stack setup? AS a old school carb person who ran webers solex Mikuni SK carbs I am used to tuning/tunable velocity stack to alter rpm range etc. Normally on a quality/efficient stack setup you have a runner of a variable length that was tuned ie math done etc flow vacuum yadda yadda and then a velocity stack is either bent/flared inserted on the end of the stack. This is what I have done on my setup. I did some trial and errors and math and came up with a 3.75 3.5" ID pvc pipe and installed a 7" flared and rolled velocity stackon on the end with a outwears filter soc around it as I dont have a filter like you or most. There are lots of ways to do this. Can be done with a air box with the stack built in on the inlet with a panel filter in the front inlet of the box etc. But curious how yours is with a cone filter. Which is why I said go for a spin with no airlifter and report back on your new awesome sound and likely throttle response. So just curious is all.
I only bring it up because you might have some extra fun sauce for free. If its right under the cone filter its being stifled and pop that ***** off and see if you get extra fun noise and go go. If you do get a atv outwears to gover over for a filter
I may be interested in the ns1 if the price is right and you can't move it otherwise. I very mildly ported my head, wish I'd have been a little more aggressive on the exhaust side, but it falls off in the higher rpm and I think it needs more cam. I have bigger injectors already and want to have Adrian tune mine also but I don't currently have a laptop good enough to work.
lol my cars not getting parted out...but if I upgrade cams to a 469 I will keep you in mind.
All my parts are on my car , if I sell something ille list in in forsale section
Last edited by MiniManAdam; Jul 29, 2022 at 09:22 PM.
Where and how is your veloicty stack setup? AS a old school carb person who ran webers solex Mikuni SK carbs I am used to tuning/tunable velocity stack to alter rpm range etc. Normally on a quality/efficient stack setup you have a runner of a variable length that was tuned ie math done etc flow vacuum yadda yadda and then a velocity stack is either bent/flared inserted on the end of the stack. This is what I have done on my setup. I did some trial and errors and math and came up with a 3.75 3.5" ID pvc pipe and installed a 7" flared and rolled velocity stackon on the end with a outwears filter soc around it as I dont have a filter like you or most. There are lots of ways to do this. Can be done with a air box with the stack built in on the inlet with a panel filter in the front inlet of the box etc. But curious how yours is with a cone filter. Which is why I said go for a spin with no airlifter and report back on your new awesome sound and likely throttle response. So just curious is all.
I only bring it up because you might have some extra fun sauce for free. If its right under the cone filter its being stifled and pop that ***** off and see if you get extra fun noise and go go. If you do get a atv outwears to gover over for a filter
my filter is 6in wide and attached to the stack which is 6in at the inlet and the stack is shaped like a big funnel and it gradually funnels down to 3in at the outlet where it then attaches into a strait tube for about another 3in long before it goes into the intake then on down...
I may be interested in the ns1 if the price is right and you can't move it otherwise. I very mildly ported my head, wish I'd have been a little more aggressive on the exhaust side, but it falls off in the higher rpm and I think it needs more cam. I have bigger injectors already and want to have Adrian tune mine also but I don't currently have a laptop good enough to work.
I can borrow you my laptop if you cover shipping..and my mpps if needed also..ille need it back asap though as I'm going to be doing a retune soon..or I can borrow it to you after..
jlmk
just the pod filter leave the tube. So where is the veliocty stack then? Are we talking about same thing?
my filter is attached to the wide end if the velocity stack , it's shaped almost like that but tapered more to accept a filter in front. Ille get a pic up soon.
Did a 50mile 2hr long test drive with the bpv tied shut. 1st run it threw a p0327 I belive it was but then I reset it , refilled my tank and drove normal for like 40miles and the last 10 I was hammering on it testing.. and OMG no cel came up the 2nd time and the throttle response I'd absolutely INSANE and I swear I build max boost like 1200rpm sooner dang near..the ooooonly down side is it is putting extra strain on the sc with the extra pressure at cruising speeds but the increase in iats was very small , maybe 10-15' more only.. so once I have my better ic that wouldn't be an issue.
I found some people have gone and fully deleted their bpv and smoothed and filled the horn even..
my car had absolutely no negative driving effects I could feel or see according to my gauges . And i think the 1st time ut threw a code was i had my meth system on then and during testing I had it completely off. So ille test again WITH meth and see what happens..
but side note I absolutely SMASHED a 2019 honda accordiaccord that wasn't stock judging by exhaust possibly tuned but atleast exhaust and from 10mph roll upto 50mph I got 3cars lengths infront befor I had to let off because speed limit was only 50 there but more than enough to know who's was faster..
Did you take the filter off too? But if you think that came from the bpv then you need to replace it dude. Thats not a normal response from zipping it unless its ****ed. Its not like a perfectrly working bpv system has gains when working right. ITs either that or what you felt was the filter. Either way you learned something.
Did you take the filter off too? But if you think that came from the bpv then you need to replace it dude. Thats not a normal response from zipping it unless its ****ed. Its not like a perfectrly working bpv system has gains when working right. ITs either that or what you felt was the filter. Either way you learned something.
it's a Detroit tuned bpv that's barely a year old...F'ing thing better not be bad.. I guess ille toss a stocker on to test just to make sure...
No , I didn't try an intakeless run yet.. i was worried about the gose coming out the valvecover that hoes to the intake , I belive its just a breather hose and idk if it part of the vacuum system or not. Or am I correct in thinking it's just a vent hose ?
