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General MINI TalkShared experiences, motoring minutes, and other general MINI-related discussion that applies to all MINIs, regardless of model, year or trim.
Replaced the DMTL (Tank Leak detection) pump last weekend and got rid of a P2402 code last weekend.
Plan on oil/filter change and brake fluid flush this weekend.
I realized the shop has not been setting the balance machine up right when they did my wheels, you have to tell the machine where the weights are going to go, I think they leave it on the clamp on weight setting all the time, I have them use stick on, on the lips
They also had one wheel with offsetting weights, I removed equal amounts from both sides and now it balances.
I realized the shop has not been setting the balance machine up right when they did my wheels, you have to tell the machine where the weights are going to go, I think they leave it on the clamp on weight setting all the time, I have them use stick on, on the lips
They also had one wheel with offsetting weights, I removed equal amounts from both sides and now it balances.
The quality of most "mechanics" in this country is pitiful. Tire mounting and balance is such a racket. A lot of the big chain shops have the best of Hunter machines, but only to be defeated by grease monkeys that are not trained even in vocational auto mechanic schools. Dealer "factory trained" mechanics are hardly better. The smart ones soon leave and open their own inde shops.
If I have the space you have, I will get a pair of old Hunters.
Installed ST coil overs and an NM GT 25mm rear sway bar on Baby several months ago. The sway bar is adjustable. Today I went from softest to stiffest setting which is a simple matter of moving the links to different holes. Yet another noticeable improvement in handling/cornering. Tires are now the weak link. When the 195/55/16 Michelin pilot sport a/s 3+ Tires need replaced we’re moving up to 205/45/17 Michelin pilot super sports. Test drive was a hoot
Last edited by contented; Jul 19, 2018 at 12:53 PM.
Depending on the specs of your 17's, you might need a spacer so the tire doesn't rub against the lower spring perch. 1st and 2nd gens with ST's need at least a 5mm spacer with factory 17x7 et48 and 205/45/17's. Not sure about the clearances for 3rd gens.
I had tire rack ship 4 G-Force Sport Comp 2 to one of their recommended shops in hudson, NH near the Windam line. This place has always done a fantastic job when I need him. He mounted and balanced, replaced my tie-rods, and aligned. In fact he let me borrow his "old beater" for the night. An 02 or 03 white on white justa with 268000 miles. Mechanically this was like new. Fun to drive but it felt so good to get back into my MCS!!
Motor on
Depending on the specs of your 17's, you might need a spacer so the tire doesn't rub against the lower spring perch. 1st and 2nd gens with ST's need at least a 5mm spacer with factory 17x7 et48 and 205/45/17's. Not sure about the clearances for 3rd gens.
RB, thank you so much for your post, It prompted me to jack Baby up and look very closely at what would rub (horizontally) if wheel size / offset were changed. In the rear the closest thing to the tire is what I'll call the trailing arm. Can barely get my little finger in the gap. I'd be hesitant to reduce that clearance in any way. Nothing else comes even close to interfering. In the front, it comes as no surprise that the strut tube is closest thing to the tire - less than a small finger width.
That leads me to the conclusion that any combination of wheel diameter, offset and tire size cannot yield an inner position different than stock. Said another way any additional width must go outward. One can easily measure the existing wheel/tire combination and calculate the offset. From there, with the specs of a new wheel (width/offset) one can easily determine how it will fit and if a spacer is needed. In my case, the 17" wheels i've been looking at will require a 5-10 mm spacer.
Re:tire size, as I plan to stay w/ stock 205/45/17 and its 24.3" diameter and I'm not overly lowered I shouldn't have any trouble w/ tires.
In summary, when I finally get new wheels and tires, hopefully it will be a seamless trouble free process with no surprises.
Oil and filter change (Amsoil 0W40 Euro and oem filter), and put in Powerflex large lower yellow engine mount bushing inserts yesterday.
Slightly increased vibration only when letting out the clutch gingerly (at about 800-1200 rpm), don't even notice it if I let it out with a little throttle,
otherwise no noticeable increased NVH, even with the ac compressor running.
Brake fluid flush today including cycling the ABS pump with Pentosin DOT 4 LV fluid, and cleaned the wheels well while I was at it.
Pedal was firm before, but even firmer now.
Waiting on a lower center trim piece for the front aero bumper to replace the one that's not there - something must have happened
to it with the previous owner.
Would like to do a good wash, clay, and wax, but the weather looks bad for that for the next two weeks straight.
Would like to do a good wash, clay, and wax, but the weather looks bad for that for the next two weeks straight.
Same here! You must be in New England.
Restitched the drivers seat. Took about 1.5 hours from removing seat from car to reinstalling. Got a chance to vac and clean while the seat was out.
Drivers seat opened up I’m not a pro but I’m very pleased.
I have had 2 things going on that I figured were covered by extended warranty, and they were. I wrote a bit ago about surging on starting out, and it seems it was the HPFP. Also, the passenger side seat pad sensors go off- much worse in the summer when the seat gets hot. Both covered by extended warranty.
