What did you do to your mini today?
Those wheels are nice, they are like a version of the sidewalk edition wheels for the R52 convertible.
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JasonMa (08-07-2018)
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ECSTuning (08-07-2018)
Yes, it does look like a prop in motion.
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JasonMa (08-07-2018)
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ECSTuning (08-08-2018)
Made a list of things I've done with my 2009 JCW R55 that I bought 3 months ago so far:
Enkei PF01 17x7 +45 wheels
Michelin 215/45/17 Pilot Sport 4S tires
McGuard wheel locks
H-Sport 25.5 mm hollow RSB
4 wheel alignment at curbside, including removing front upper shock mount pins and
increasing front camber slightly.
Powerflex lower control arm bushings
Powerflex lower large engine mount inserts
WMW turbo wrap
MINI Fini hood scoop grill
ECU cover piece
BSH OCC and dual boost port with PVC block
PIAA super silicone front wiper blades and Aquapel treatment to glass
New oem rear wiper blades
Spark Plugs (30K, stock oem)
Oil and filter change (Amsoil 0W40 Euro, oem)
Magnetic oil plug
Air filter (oem paper)
Cabin microfilter (oem charcoal)
Brake flush (Pentosin DOT 4 LV with ABS activation during flush)
New gas cap
Replace 12V socket and broken ring
Craven e-brake handle and adjust cable tightness
Raceseng Topology shifter ****
Craven Dipstick
Front spoiler lower trim piece
Front lower air diverters
Rear bumper center carrier piece
Pushed in dent in compact spare well.
Compact spare
Compact spare tray
Replace missing tools in spare tray (sunroof crank, wheel chock, toe hook, etc).
Spacer to allow compact spare to clear JCW rear calipers and longer bolts.
Wheel peg to facilitate changing
Front and rear floor mats (Modern Contour Carpet Floor Maxpider Floor Mats)
Various clips and fasteners that were missing or broken
Rollup sunshade
Zippee sunroof shades
Modified sliding top for armrest so it doesn't open up easily when you put your elbow on it
DMTL pump (gas tank leak detection) replaced
Light In Sight
Pink Invisible Unicorn decal
Ashtray/coin holder
New antenna (oem)
Rear mud flaps (oem)
Glove Box organizer
Chimex seat belt bypass
Back seat pull straps
Programmed go and lock feature
Sunroof track cleaned and lubed
Aluminum jack point inserts
Schwaben (Foxwell) scan tool
Wash, clay bar, wax (P21S)
New personalized plate (DOEMA ... means cheetah)
1/2 can sea foam cleaning by vacuum to the intake manifold
1 can B44K in the gas tank
Annual safety and emissions inspections
Lots of fun motoring
1 speeding ticket
Enkei PF01 17x7 +45 wheels
Michelin 215/45/17 Pilot Sport 4S tires
McGuard wheel locks
H-Sport 25.5 mm hollow RSB
4 wheel alignment at curbside, including removing front upper shock mount pins and
increasing front camber slightly.
Powerflex lower control arm bushings
Powerflex lower large engine mount inserts
WMW turbo wrap
MINI Fini hood scoop grill
ECU cover piece
BSH OCC and dual boost port with PVC block
PIAA super silicone front wiper blades and Aquapel treatment to glass
New oem rear wiper blades
Spark Plugs (30K, stock oem)
Oil and filter change (Amsoil 0W40 Euro, oem)
Magnetic oil plug
Air filter (oem paper)
Cabin microfilter (oem charcoal)
Brake flush (Pentosin DOT 4 LV with ABS activation during flush)
New gas cap
Replace 12V socket and broken ring
Craven e-brake handle and adjust cable tightness
Raceseng Topology shifter ****
Craven Dipstick
Front spoiler lower trim piece
Front lower air diverters
Rear bumper center carrier piece
Pushed in dent in compact spare well.
Compact spare
Compact spare tray
Replace missing tools in spare tray (sunroof crank, wheel chock, toe hook, etc).
Spacer to allow compact spare to clear JCW rear calipers and longer bolts.
Wheel peg to facilitate changing
Front and rear floor mats (Modern Contour Carpet Floor Maxpider Floor Mats)
Various clips and fasteners that were missing or broken
Rollup sunshade
Zippee sunroof shades
Modified sliding top for armrest so it doesn't open up easily when you put your elbow on it
DMTL pump (gas tank leak detection) replaced
Light In Sight
Pink Invisible Unicorn decal
Ashtray/coin holder
New antenna (oem)
Rear mud flaps (oem)
Glove Box organizer
Chimex seat belt bypass
Back seat pull straps
Programmed go and lock feature
Sunroof track cleaned and lubed
Aluminum jack point inserts
Schwaben (Foxwell) scan tool
Wash, clay bar, wax (P21S)
New personalized plate (DOEMA ... means cheetah)
1/2 can sea foam cleaning by vacuum to the intake manifold
1 can B44K in the gas tank
Annual safety and emissions inspections
Lots of fun motoring
1 speeding ticket
Last edited by cristo; 08-08-2018 at 04:12 PM.
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vetsvette (08-08-2018)
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
Just the door and not the front panel in front of the door? That would lucky as bad things go.
What I did to my 05 JCW today -
Finally a strut/shock tower worth a damn.
I'm not naming brands, but being an Aerospace Engineer (retired after 35+ yrs. ), I know that, for no matter the reason for its existence, a bent tower brace has...VERY little, if any real column strength. Almost useless for what people buy them for.
I really don't understand why bent bars are made in the 21st century. Yes, maybe there are clearance problems in some cars. In that case, the designer "should"...be designing in extra strength that the bend has taken away. OR, mount the bar in a slightly different location.
Anyway, today, I mixed and matched brands of bars and mounting plates. Full top plates (another fallacy), and a straight support bar. Measured, marked, drilled and tapped, and fastened everything together. There are also...NO slotted holes. Another waste. Friction joints...move. These cars are built to much closer tolerances than needing big slots in the aftermarket parts.
And just to ad note/correction to my probably already controversial work. Just because upper strut tower brace mounts are full coverage and use all three shock fasteners, does "not" fully support the tower and keep it from mushrooming. No matter what's been said (I've seen it written here), for the "best" aftermarket strength, a properly thick plate between the shock and tower plate is required...NOT on top.
I've seen it written that these plates will mess with this and that angle, height, and so on. Really...a .125"/.130" plate is going to screw up the front geometry..?
While I don't pretend to know the geometry under the front of the Mini, I do know, that raising the car .130" (about 1/8") cannot...be seen standing next to the car without visual aids. Now, what it may do to the caster and-or camber, that's an easy adjustment..!
Mike
Finally a strut/shock tower worth a damn.
I'm not naming brands, but being an Aerospace Engineer (retired after 35+ yrs. ), I know that, for no matter the reason for its existence, a bent tower brace has...VERY little, if any real column strength. Almost useless for what people buy them for.
I really don't understand why bent bars are made in the 21st century. Yes, maybe there are clearance problems in some cars. In that case, the designer "should"...be designing in extra strength that the bend has taken away. OR, mount the bar in a slightly different location.
Anyway, today, I mixed and matched brands of bars and mounting plates. Full top plates (another fallacy), and a straight support bar. Measured, marked, drilled and tapped, and fastened everything together. There are also...NO slotted holes. Another waste. Friction joints...move. These cars are built to much closer tolerances than needing big slots in the aftermarket parts.
And just to ad note/correction to my probably already controversial work. Just because upper strut tower brace mounts are full coverage and use all three shock fasteners, does "not" fully support the tower and keep it from mushrooming. No matter what's been said (I've seen it written here), for the "best" aftermarket strength, a properly thick plate between the shock and tower plate is required...NOT on top.
I've seen it written that these plates will mess with this and that angle, height, and so on. Really...a .125"/.130" plate is going to screw up the front geometry..?
While I don't pretend to know the geometry under the front of the Mini, I do know, that raising the car .130" (about 1/8") cannot...be seen standing next to the car without visual aids. Now, what it may do to the caster and-or camber, that's an easy adjustment..!
Mike
So..i figured i would share what i did today...and well the last few weekends....
today i did the VGS mod thing. Will see how that goes. Last weekend did the SC oil(thanks Way. The only place i could find the full kit at a good price)/water pump, alternator and coolant flush/fill. Week before that the crankpully decided to _______ the bed, so put on the cravenspeed 0% reduction pully. Aaaaaand a few washes and wax/polish(it rained the next day..figures). This weekend....???
today i did the VGS mod thing. Will see how that goes. Last weekend did the SC oil(thanks Way. The only place i could find the full kit at a good price)/water pump, alternator and coolant flush/fill. Week before that the crankpully decided to _______ the bed, so put on the cravenspeed 0% reduction pully. Aaaaaand a few washes and wax/polish(it rained the next day..figures). This weekend....???
More like last week
Loaded it up and drove to Boulder, Colorado from Syracuse, NY, with the final destination Tucson, AZ in a weeks time.
Replaced the brakes on all 4 corners with new slotted and crossed drilled rotors, stock rears but R56 upfront with stainless steel hoses. Had the calipers powder coated to match the car.
Started on the rear brakes a couple of weeks ago, but ran out of time. Took car to have brakes bled, but got informed that the hard lines were rusted through! I ordered the parts before I left Syracuse and had them shipped to Boulder so that it would be ready and waiting for me when I got there. Once in Boulder, lifted the car on to jack stands and started in the lines! Holy S@@@, where they bad! Replaced the lines and installed the new SS hoses and completed the front R56 swap. Bled system, no leaks and stops like a champ!
Replaced the brakes on all 4 corners with new slotted and crossed drilled rotors, stock rears but R56 upfront with stainless steel hoses. Had the calipers powder coated to match the car.
Started on the rear brakes a couple of weeks ago, but ran out of time. Took car to have brakes bled, but got informed that the hard lines were rusted through! I ordered the parts before I left Syracuse and had them shipped to Boulder so that it would be ready and waiting for me when I got there. Once in Boulder, lifted the car on to jack stands and started in the lines! Holy S@@@, where they bad! Replaced the lines and installed the new SS hoses and completed the front R56 swap. Bled system, no leaks and stops like a champ!
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ECSTuning (08-15-2018)
Installed a Dinian Elite from ECST on my 2017 MC S convertible yesterday. An easy job once one figures out how the BMW connectors come apart and you get the key fobs far enough away. Included zip ties made it easy to get a neat and clean look. Baby started right up. Had to reset date/time. No other issues. Test drive brought a big smile to my face. :-)
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ECSTuning (08-15-2018)
Awesome.
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MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
Can I ask what they are charging you for painting? I’d like to at least get the front aero bumper for my Clubman.