Great photos!

 

Really easy; if you're messing with VANOS then you are ready for this. I was surprised just how easy it was in my '09 S. Remove the airbox, remove part of the intake tube, and the tensioner is then easily accessible. I just dug up this video for you:

 

Question: Would replacing the tensioner be a good maintenance item?

 

If you have money to burn. I believe most wait on this item until it starts to "speak"... when that happens, it will make your Mini start to sound like a diesel engine.

My tensioner decided to die around 89k miles. So I am dancing to that tune for the next time I need to replace mine. Maybe before that if I have to replace the passenger side mount. "Might as well while I am in there..." type mentality.

 

More like a diesel than it already does?! Curious about replacement because I have 70k+ miles on the car, and I REALLY don't want the engine to implode, so any maintenance I can perform to keep it running smooth...

 

Just got a jb+ for my 2013 n18 cooper s. Is it safe to turn the dial up to 100% if im running 91 octane? thanks

 

See the Gen2>Modifications>Drivetrain Cooper-S forum for many threads on this.

 

Picked my Mini up from the shop after getting the clutch replaced, and new axles installed.

 

2009 MC, CR/B, N12, 93,000 kms - as a quick background, bought used recently, having persistent P0015 fault codes:

What I did Today:

Today, I did some more DIY work with the parts I got from ECS Tuning:

1. replaced 4 spark plugs (original were BERU, replaced with Bosch) and two coils (Bosch); spark plug in cylinder 1 had a bunch oil in the spark plug well and I tried to get creative getting that out (attached a drinking straw with duct tape to a shop-vac). The other three plugs were fine, but all were highly carbonized and all threads had oily residue; start of white ceramic on each plug had brown staining on them from the oil. The procedure was overall, EASIER than I thought. The oil issues now makes me wonder what the hell the previous owner did - I see in the service records that 2 LITRES!! of oil was topped up only about 4000km from the last oil change .. I highly suspect this caused a lot of these oil issues and possibly the cause of a lot of the other issues I am having..... ;
2. removed front (exhaust) VANOS solenoid to clean. THIS was A LOT HARDER than it sounds, but only because of the limited space you have to work with. I don't have huge hands, but I wish they were tinier for this job. Solenoid had brown staining/varnishing on it, but otherwise didn't look that dirty. Cleaned with degreaser and put back in. Have two new ones on the way, so next weekend they may both be replaced;
3. changed air filter. There are a lot of hoses attached to this, but if you loosen the main bolts on the air filter housing you can lift it up enough to replace the filter without taking off all the hoses. Air filter wasn't too dirty, but couldn't "see the sun through it" so I suppose no harm in changing;
4. replaced the air cabin filter - mine was one of the ones without screws. There is a slot that a screwdriver fits it that you can press and it will swivel down. Others have screws I am told. Not terribly dirty, but no harm in replacing I suppose.

This may all be placebo effect, but on first test drive, everything seems A LOT smoother and even the air in the cabin seems "fresher." Haven't got the stuttering/misfire that I was getting last week, so I think the plug change was needed and was a good choice.

Will save front and rear VANOS solenoid replacement for next week (parts on their way) and since it's in the area and will be exposed when I'm working on the rear VANOS solenoid, I'll add the newer chain tensioner part that I got. It seems REALLY tight back there to do those two - ANY SUGGESTIONS, HINTS?

Then took the MC for a wash and detailed the summer wheels and tires (installed two new non-runflats earlier in the week) .... THEN ....... CHECK ENGINE LIGHT .... dammit!!! Still getting code P0015 ...

AND .... a bulb replacement message warning light, but for the life of me .. I checked all bulbs and all are working .... HELP!?

 

Replaced the oil cooler gaskets and refilled the oil and coolant. Then...test drive!

 

Ordered a Spec Stage 3 clutch and lightweight flywheel. They don't have it listed on the website because they haven't developed the flywheel yet. They're going to use my stock flywheel as the template. Looks like they build some good stuff. Getting this done in anticipation of the ByteTronik Stage 2 Tune.

http://www.specclutches.com

 

Couple small things -

1. Rolled 150k miles.
2. Replaced the stupid crappy aux port with a "genuine mini" port, which just means I overpaid for it to actually work.
3. Got it stuffed with a 1/2 face cord of wood.

 

Just hit 14,200 miles.

I want to keep my MINI completely stock but...

I installed Strut Tower Defenders. (shocked how easy it was), stubby antenna, Cooper S licence plate frame, caps over the strut (I needed to get the Outmotoring order above $200.00 to get free shipping).

I also painted the mirror caps and hood stripes red with PlastiDip and coated with Glossifier. The jury is out on the Plastidip. The lines are perfect. I am not convinced the stripes will not peal off.

I need to update my signature picture.

I am so tempted to get Millteck exhaust, 15% supercharger pulley, Alta air intake

 

Careful - once you start..... I just wanted a CAI

Nik

 

I would go for the pulley as it makes a huge difference on it's own and doesn't require any other mods besides colder spark plugs and a smaller belt. All of the vendors should have a pulley package which includes all you'll need for about $200. Just make sure you use the proper pulley puller for a MINI and not a generic puller when installing.

I waited over two years to install one because I purchased a very low mileage car and thought it would be good to drive it stock for a while. After the pulley, I couldn't believe how much more fun the car was to drive and regretted waiting to install it.

 

Topped of the coolant expansion tank after driving a bit after changing the oil cooler and housing seals. Now the oil pan drain plug is leaking. Stop one leak, another starts, the love/hate is high.

 

Drove him to work today... Need to add some Techron to the tank, its been 3k miles.

 

Replaced my faded front emblem and went for a nice drive.

 

Replaced the crush washer on the oil pan drain plug I mentioned as the cause of an oil leak a few posts ago.

 

I took Mini out for a bit of spanking.

 

Ordered the first round of extras for the new JCW that just landed...

 

I had the gentleman from Renew Protect buff out and ceramic seal all my glass. I get this done every year at the Dragon. It makes the glass so much easier to keep clean for the following year. It also delays the pitting and hazy look that happens over the years.

 

 

Fresh set of 215/45-17 Firehawks, Union Jack for SR and new smoked LED taillamps =)

 

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