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General MINI TalkShared experiences, motoring minutes, and other general MINI-related discussion that applies to all MINIs, regardless of model, year or trim.
Swapped out my factory S exhaust with a JCW exhaust, picked it up locally for $150, installed new exhaust clamp as well. It has a deeper sound, not Droney at all. I like the way the tips fit with the bumper and have the angle cuts, fits way better in the cut outs. Also installed cravenspeed dip stick and gave her a bath after exhaust install.
Last edited by Jason Cornelius; Jun 23, 2022 at 03:18 PM.
RF wheel bearing and lower torque mount today. The wheel bearing was still tight, but was getting louder and louder. 199,1xx on Grumpy right now. SES is back on, likely the O2 heater circuit code, again.
Replaced the AC condenser. Not a terrible job, other than having to remove the whole bumper to get at the bolt connection for the lower refrigerant line.
Came across another Gen1 Mini owner at a locat TGIF's this evening. He has a 2004 R53 6-speed with only 30k miles! He picked it up recently from a friend who had it sitting for a couple of years. Color me envious
Oil and filter change. Ever since I figured I needed to remove the coolant overflow tank, the filter change has been MUCH easier. Only minimal oil dripping this time.
I've always lived by the aphorism "There's no time like the present". (Actually, I prefer "Patience means Never".) Regardless.;
Despite the temperatures projected to be in the mid 90's - I decided to start on my brakes yesterday morning (new rotors, pads, sensors), instead of next month when I had also planned to upgrade my tires.
An 8 hour day = 1hour - walk to and from the Auto parts store for a T50 bit, 45min - fighting a previously stripped caliper bushing, 20min - replaced the brake wear and wheel speed sensor, 3hrs incessantly cleaning (de-griming and wire brushing more than necessary), I only managed to get the fronts done.
Although, the dealer supposedly did "a complete brake job" @ 60K; I think evidence shows they only replaced the front pads and not the rotors. Despite what the image shows; The old = Pads (inner) show 50 - 60% life. Rotors severely scored and worn way past their life span, in addition, they also stripped out the hex caliper bushing bolt. For anyone else facing this issue the improvised solution = T45. Works great for removing the offending/stripped hex bolt.
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Back at it again - Today, I installed the new set of rear rotors, pads, brake wear & wheel speed sensor.
Only took 4 hours. My Mini is pretty clean and rust free by "conventional" standards. The only rust I ever had to contend with is on the wheel hubs and brake calipers. Wire brush, de-greaser, brake cleaner and Scotch brite pad achieved fair results.
Took the Mini out for a 10mi bed-in trip down the back streets. A few 60mph hard braking mixed in with more civilized driving and stopping - I felt comfortable with my work on the brakes.
Coincidentally, the dash clock just happened to tick over to 90k mi.
On a side note; I just had andriancl remote tune my engine last week with amazing results - In 2nd gear running @ 70mph I soon ran out of road. Whew!....Brake job well done!
Sheared the heads off of the pinch bolts for the front struts while trying to remove them. Tomorrow I will try and drill them out and re-tap the threads. The struts are due for replacing - they have definite signs of leaking.
I'm going to have a long day tomorrow, to sort through this. I'm trying to get all the new stuts installed in time for an appointment I made for an alignment on Saturday morning.
F@#%ing Murphy and his darn Law!
Oh, and I replaced the H7 high beam bulbs on both sides...at least that went smoothly The right/passenger side bulb was bad, but I replaced the pair.
If you get them drilled out, just use the R56 bolt and nut arrangement. It will be easier than trying to retap the threads and it will require less care when drilling.
Oil and filter change. Ever since I figured I needed to remove the coolant overflow tank, the filter change has been MUCH easier. Only minimal oil dripping this time.
Just be gentle with it. I would order a new coolant line to have on hand so I was ready when the tee breaks at some point when you move it. It will happen.
If you get them drilled out, just use the R56 bolt and nut arrangement. It will be easier than trying to retap the threads and it will require less care when drilling.
So, I finished up the job at 4am this morning (because I had an 8am appointment for an alignment...and they still haven't gotten to my car, now 3 hrs later).
I did go the "drill it out and use a through bolt and nut, instead" route. It took a LONG time to get those bolts drilled out. Honestly, for the next person facing this, just plan on the car being down for a few days, and take the spindles off the car and in to a machine shop to have the snapped-off bolts drilled out.
So, what did I do to the Mini: replaced both H7 high beam/DRL bulbs, installed new Bilstein B8 front struts with new upper strut mounts, new upper spring perches, new upper and lower spring seats (the rubber cushions), and then new swaybar end links in front and new front outer ball joints. It's a huge difference in ride. Those were the originals in there (16yrs and almost 162k miles), and the driver's side was really bad (a lot of leaking from the strut and a very worn outer ball joint).
I also installed strut tower reinforcement plates. On installation, I had to "massage" the left (driver) strut tower, as it had mushroomed a little. Makes sense with how worn that strut was. I'd like to find the strut brace that fits these plates, if someone knows what will fit?
Changed my cabin air filter. My neck is a little sore from the positioning required. Took significantly more than the 5 minute job, but I imagine the next time will be faster. I kind of had to curl the filters to slide them in. The old filter had visual discoloration, so hopefully that was the cause of an intermittent musty smell.
Debating if I want to brave 90°F heat to do some vacuuming and wash for both my Mini and the wife's Mazda3.
I washed, clayed, compound, polished, waxed and ceramic coated Ceelo for our trip to Vermont for MTTS on Friday. Not bad for a 5 year old, 4 season daily driven baby hauler. Still love it as much as I did when I got it, maybe a little more after the mods. Just need to finish cleaning the vinyl and wheels…ran out of time today.
..... I'd like to find the strut brace that fits these plates, if someone knows what will fit?
Originally Posted by RB-MINI
Looks like the plates from M7. I would contact them to see if they can verify, and if they sell replacement cross braces separately.
^^^ +1 ^^^
I believe @RB-MINI is correct. Those do indeed appear to be M7 plates.
I have the M7 Strut Re-Inforcement Plates installed on my '04 R53. Just the plates - no brace/bar.
I'm not certain that you can order the brace separately from M7.
Perhaps irrelevant; (FWIW) - This is what their fine print states:
Quote: Please note:
You cannot buy the SRPs and attach the cross-bar at a later time.
The brace does not fit on the R50 and R52 Non-"S" Cooper due to limited hood clearance of the non supercharged cars. M7 suggests the SRP (Strut Reinforcement Plates) for this application.
Trimming of the underhood insulation material may be required to 100% clear this brace. This is a very tight space.
Pretty sure the only reason for that note is M7’s plain plates don’t have the threaded mounting holes for one. Seems like a missed opportunity for future upgrade sales. Maybe they don’t like the look of unused holes, but I would have just included some plastic plugs with the plain plates.
That was my thought too.
M7 mentions 1/2" (?) aluminum. I wonder if you could query a NAM member who has the original brace/bar who could confirm.
Or place a WTB ad in the market place. Someone might have one laying around. You never know.
khnitz - if you do make one... Make sure about clearances as I remember reading more than one post where a person installed a brace, closed the bonnet and damaged the bonnet. They were very upset.
... khnitz - if you do make one... Make sure about clearances as I remember reading more than one post where a person installed a brace, closed the bonnet and damaged the bonnet. They were very upset.
Yes - I also remember reading a post of someone having an S and experiencing a similar clearance issue.
(hence the "FWIW" notation in my previous response).
Don't recall if it was the M7 though.
Replaced the air filter and it was all going well until I dropped a screw. Couldn't find it and honestly didn't want to take the whole under carriage off. So let us hope that a slightly longer screw isn't going to cause an issue.
