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General MINI TalkShared experiences, motoring minutes, and other general MINI-related discussion that applies to all MINIs, regardless of model, year or trim.
It was pretty overcast with a slight chance of rain today. Despite the forecast; I decided to resume the curb rash repair on my 18y/o Mini S-Lites....
Started off by sanding out the previously applied primer, lightly scuffed the rims with 400 grit, subsequently wiping down with a little MEK.
I had jacked up the car so I could rotate the wheel - It was easier to work on and spray another light coat of primer.
A close up view of how a badly rashed wheel has been/becoming restored.
Very pleased with the repair/results on this wheel so far....Only 3 more to go. Next step will be to scuff and sand,(with the wheels off the car), paint, lacquer clear,
allow the lacquer to cure for 72 hours (over a weekend)....afterwards, Ceramic treat in 10-15 days.
Nearly had heart palpitations when I realized this was my LAST can of PlastiKote sandable primer!
This IS the good stuff....Before Duplicolor bought the brand and #@%!ed -up the original formula.
With only one wheel worked on - It started raining so I had to quit for the afternoon.
EDIT: 8.7.2022
All 4our wheels rash repaired, prepped & primed.
On a side note; I had initially gone to a paint & body shop to get a quote on refurbish, media bast & powder coating (my preferred choice); I was quoted $1,800 (+). Kinda wish I was in a $$ position to do so.
Nothing to crazy today, at 173,000 miles dropped and changed transmission fluid to redline MTL 75w80, 3000 mile oil change, tire rotation, and swapped front and rear sway bar end links.
Gearbox out twice.
Lost drive.
Found clutch plate sheared the rivets off.
New clutch kit fitted and engine locked up.
Strip down again and found dual mass
flywheel at fault.
fitted a single mass kit and back on the road.
... are no more!
Received my new Foxwell NT 510 Elite OBDII BMW/Mini scanner today!
I actually feel that I got a great deal @129 + free shipping - brand new and it arrived in only 2 short days.
This afternoon, I was able to clear several persistent faults on my R53, that would not clear with my Creator C110+ BMW OBDII:
5E40_Steering Angle Implausible
5E5C_ Initialize Run Flat Indicator (I don't have RF)
5E19_ CAN data fault from DME/DDE (DSC lamp on...) Never any fault lights lit on the speedo (?)
5E18_ CAN data fault from DME/DDE
5E14_ CAN connection to DME/DDE (DSC lamp on until ignition reset) Again, Never any fault lights lit
I've had these damn faults in my system for nearly a year - but the Mini always ran great and everything worked fine. Just could never clear the faults with the Creator.
Will do another routine scan in a couple of days to see if any of the faults return.
@Here2Go I know it has to feel good to finally clear those codes. It will feel even better if they don't come back. Good luck!
Yeah - Having both been plagued with the phantom 5E19 fault - I'm sure you feel my angst and relief....It has been a strange fault code indeed to try and figure out the cause.
Crossing my fingers.
Replaced the molding at the back of the convertible top and likely raised the value of our R52S by 25%, too - just on the cost of the parts, alone! Holy cow were these in bad shape! Likely the original parts. My daughter gave me a hand. The new ones looks SO much nicer! And a view of the other side!
Very important piece of trim for the R52....they help to keep water out of the boot and a electronic module in the back dry....$$$$.
Which is the electronic module that is at risk? I wish I had known earlier...I would have scavenged it as a spare from the R52 that was in our local junkyard (it's now been scrapped, though).
Nothing life changing.
Finally scored and installed a long missing L rear rubber, lower shock-bolt, stone guard boot.
I know it came with one when I bought the car, new. Somehow, over the years, it went MIA. It has bugged me for 10 years....
I feel better now.
My same likewise went MIA some time after either my work or 4-wheel alignment. Fortunately, replacements aren't yet NLA as shown ordered 6 months ago...
went to drop off something at a friends near Kimball Farm Westford, MA.
i look up and see a stream of MINIs
I wave. They beep. Sigh.
I drop off the goods and say “what the hell” let me take a longer route home- maybe they’re around. 10 seconds later they’re buzzing a left in front of me.
I tagged on behind “Muvover” trailing car and for 2 minutes I’m in!! Woohoo!!
”We” scoot down roads I’m very familiar with until they rip passed my own road where I waved good bye. ****ing so cool!
Now need to figure out how I can get in touch with these fiends!
Where you at? Please reach out so I’m not a stowaway 🤪
The mini you all dusted.
Last edited by madcanvis; Aug 21, 2022 at 06:47 AM.
When MINIs first came out, our local dealer did things/road trips like that. Once we went to Lime Rock Park as a group to see the auto races there. Once we took over a drive-in theater to see the movie Cars when it first came out. It was crazy having 50 or so MINIs going down the road. So much fun.
Do a search for MINI clubs. I know that there are some in MA. That group may also be a part of the the local chapter of the BMWCCA. In western MA there is a British car club that a friend of mine, with a classic Mini, belongs to. They are out there. Hope you find them...
Painted my Sideview mirror housings today. They were looking pretty tired over the years.
Try as I might I had a heck of a time trying to release the inner plastic tabs in effort to remove the mirror housings.
The one thing I've learned about a 18y/o Mini is that the "plastic" tabs will break 9/10. So I left the caps in place and just masked.
Although, this shouldn't be mistaken as a "How To" guide...Maybe a "How NOT To"?.
For what it's worth - Here's what I did and the lessons I learned....
Initially I dry & wet hand sanded the oxidized, plastic mirror housing with 400 grit and scotchbrite (red).
I should first say that the factory mirror housings are NOT painted. The gloss finish you see on the factory housing(s) is the actual "plastic" itself.
It has always been my practice to use a good primer to "seal" a surface regardless of how perfect the (original) surface may "appear".
In this case, at attempt to short cut - I went against my better judgement and did not use primer.... Big mistake (sorry no photo) - I laid down nice even coats of black Acrylic lacquer. Looked awesome. Suddenly; the paint began to "buck"/"gator" in a matter of minutes.
Even having sanded with 400 grit was enough to "break" the pours (styrene?) in the weathered "plastic". The solvent in the paint reacted adversely with the unprotected surface causing it to "gas off", contract and expand.
I wasn't surprised. I've seen this before.
After !@#%-ing up my first mirror housing, I decided not to give up and re-sanded the mess I had made.
This time I used a primer. Not having much of a choice ($$), I took a chance using an off the shelf brand of primer.
I've used Rustoleum aerosol paint products in the past but never their "sandable" primer.
Reluctantly at first; considering using anything with the word "Oleum" in the name or as an active component; makes me extremely dubious about it's quality as an automotive paint product..
I have to admit; I was totally surprised how quickly Rustoleum Filler & Sandable Primer flashed off and how nicely it dry sanded and easily dusted with 400 grit, after only 20mins time.
In my former career in design & fabrication; when it came to sandable primer; we had an adage - "If it doesn't dust, don't trust". The red oxide glazing putty is Bondo brand (ugh!). I prefer 3M Acryl-Green or Evercoat but it is not always readily available OTC.
The results were a nice smooth dry dusted finish followed by a little wet sanding. Afterwards pre-paint cleaned with a tack cloth.
I switched from the brand of paint (Rustoleum) that initially bucked. I laid down a few nice coats of VHT/ gloss black in succession. Finished off with lacquer clear.
I purchased Rustoleum Filler & Sandable primer @ my local Advance Auto crap store for an obscene $18/can. Well worth it, in this case.
The WURTH lacquer (clear) is available @autogeek.com. I highly recommend it!
Although I used single stage spray paint and UV "lacquer" clear - I know it will never hold up against the elements in the long run.
I'm ok with the results for now. Knowing that I'll be replacing the mirror housings with new, next year.
