[quote=ghosthound;2088801]^^ if you can make a bracket for a reasonable price you will make big bucks.

quote]

Amen to that...I have a homemade system with the AEI DryFilter that rocks, but i wish that I had an Alta-style bracket to support the whole thing...

 

This the best that I could get, they are pretty shy and don't pose for the camera well.



If you look closely you can see the brass coloured plate under the hose clamp.

 

my home made CAI...

 

What filter are you using?

 

Pipercross...

 

where'd you get that mount from? I've been looking everywhere for something to hold down the fiter.

 

The package of the filter contains the filter and the black part that connects it with the silicone hose.

In order to connect them I used a 70mm metal ring from a guy that makes exhausts and there it is....
Cost in Greece....210$
Cost of Alta or similar...430$

 

Mike, what did you support it with? Or did you? Mine seems to just rest on the old air inlet pipe. Is that ok?
I didn't remove it incase I need to revert back to the stock filter wheI go to the dealer for service.

 

If you are referring to mine, just an auto accessories place (supercheap, in Australia only). They would be easy to make if you have a vice, flat metal plate 2" wide, bend a hook section that clamps under the hose clamp and drill some holes to mount it with. I might come up with my own using aluminium so that i can polish it up and give a little more bling.

 

Very cool......next step on mine is to make a mount to hold it firm.

In the meantime I just tooks some pics of mine which I installed last week and added boost tubes this weekend.

First pic is with the lower part of OEM box still in place.
Second pic shows it after removing the box and all the "noise maker" pipes behind it.
Third pic shows the "noise maker" pipes I was refering to which when removed allows better airflow through the engine compartment.

 

ukaussi... that is nearly the same setup i was going to go with when i get my car... hows the trueflow treating you? i wanted to get the one that was 5.5" by 9" in dimension. figured that will let it breathe a little more with the increase in size.

does it not sit that well on the stock bottom airbox? in your first picture with the bottom half of the airbox, the filter looks like its pointing upward, is that cuz of the ziptie or because the fat part of the filter is resting on the edge of the airbox...
originally i was going to extend the 3" end of the reducer using a coupler in hopes that it would make the filter stay flat and parallel to the box... think that will work? i have a great way to tie the filter down using the stock mounts from the airbox... but it wont look good unless the filter sits straight with the box...

 

So far it is a lot of fun. Obviously much louder PSSSHHH which seemed to have gotten a little quieter when I removed the noise maker yesterday.

In the 1st pic the 3" black silicon pipe is actually resting on the edge of the OEM box not the filter.
The reason for removing the OEM box, and the technically useless noisemaker plumbing below, is to allow air entering the front of the car to escape better as it flows over the filter and down the back of the engine. This will in turn allow more air to enter up front.

Less restriction back there = better airflow = cooler ambient air around the air filter = denser engine air intake charge = more power

Check the write up ALTA did on their intake as I believe they have some data that backs up what I said

 

i just placed the order for the trueflow... that siliconeintake website doesnt seem to restock their pipes that frequently... they dont have half the parts in the color i need. a bit dissapointing. but then again. i dont even have the car!

 

So I was looking at this photo, and I said to myself "couldn't you fasten the air filter down with some zip ties (maybe even silicon caulk the edges for a nice tight seal) and leave the air box top off and gain a tremendous amount of breathability?". I'm just wondering if one could get away with just removing the stock air box top, replace the paper filter with a K&N drop in filer, zip tie the sucker down and have an instant "C"AI. Go ahead, call me crazy... but it seems to be in the right spot, have a bit of protection from heat soak, and would be really easy to change before any regular service appointments.

 

i think thats exactly what minijayhawk did...
its a bit different with the trueflow though because the spectre filter used has its logo on this metal bar that goes along the filter, giving it some structural support when you ziptie it... the trueflow... has i think a soft metal cage like thing surrounding the foam, making it probably a poor structure to zip tie it with..
also ukaussi has his with the stock bottom half of the air box and the filter and the filter sticks straight up... im hoping to extend the 3" end of my reducer using a coupler in hopes that it will sit flat with the airbox...
also... if you look at alta's cai, you can see that their 3" end of their 90 bend reducer is longer than their 2.75" end that goes into the MAF. trying to mimic that as close as possible.

and about the silicone caulk. i dont know about you but when it comes time to service the car, i am planning on putting it back to stock. i dont know how easy that will be when using the caulk

 

I'm just thinking one could leave the bottom of the stock air box, leave the square air filter (possibly replace with drop in K&N), then zip tie the square air filter to the bottom of the air filter housing so it doesn't fly out, and you're done. No added tubing or anything. Just like in that pic above. This is just a way out idea, I haven't even opened my stock air box to look at how its put together... nor have I really thought about it being a good or bad idea. Just thinking out loud

 

Yeah, I think Tach is suggesting simply removing the top of the stock air bock and making sure the panel filter doesn't fly off.

 

No!!!!!
You must have a filter connected where the green o-ring is! This is the intake to the engine. The bottom is where it comes into the stock filter.

 

Oh yeah. Good point. The flow in the box is the reverse of what you would think. The air flows up through the filter, not down. But hey, that would be one helluva free-flowing system.

 

That is very clever. I was trying to figure out a way to accomplish the same thing. One question about choice of filter. Correct me if I am wrong but having a longer filter (9 inch v. 5 inch) more or less, allows for more air flow. So when choosing a filter wouldn't a longer one, like the spectre be better than a stubby K&N?

I'll post pics as soon as I make those brackets. Mine is sloppily sitting on the bottom of the OEM box

 

if you look back... there is actually a lot on this already...

something with the maf being programmed with a 90degree bend

also if you look back... someone has already done it

 

The only way is to come up with some form of adapter that will attach the turbo induction pipe to the bottom of the OEM box, therefore reversing the flow through the filter.

A lot of work but it could be done, not sure what the effect on performance would be. I doubt there would be any advantage over a quality pod filter and it is certainly more messing around.

Interesting concept though.

 

That's exactly what I think, too. Basically the more surface area, the more air you get. However, I think at some point the amount of air is restricted by the intake tube, so longer filter won't necessarily give you any more air.

In any case, when I'm ready for this mod, I'll be going with a 9 in. It sounds better when I tell people I have a 9-inch under my hood.

 

For me it is also what I have available in Australia. I have not seen spectre filters available anywhere.

I fitted the filter that I have as it is the largest that I could find that still had a 3" mount. I used to have a 4" mount filter that was a lot longer on a Ford V8. This would probably give better flow but then I would have to fit a reducing pipe to the OEM pipe. I am not sure if the flow would be worth it as the filter that I am referring to was not a dual cone where the one I have now is. I wonder what the flow requirement between a mildly modded 5.4L N/A V8 quad cam and a 1.6L turbo 4 is, I think the V8 will still require a lot more flow.

I would love to find some accurate tests between dual cone and straight pods of various sizes, also K&N versus BMC as these are both readily available here. The problem is all manufacturers seem to have charts that say theirs is the best, wish I had access to a flow bench.

At the end of the day, a motor will only take what it needs and as long as your filter flows more than that at peak, any more will make no difference.

 

OOOHHH

i totally misinterprited what tachicardia said... yeah..lol. the air is sucked through the green o-ring thing.. duhh heehee

mutely mcs... im sure you can order a trueflow through amazon. The one i just got is a 3" inlet, 5.5" diameter (HUUGEE) by 9".

i just like the idea of it being a straight pipe looking filter that will sit and use pretty much the entire bottom airbox like the drop in filters.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ThmW2SW1I-k
has a live demonstration but i dont think that the product that they compare it to is K&N... just something that you can see for yourself!