Sorry, forgot to clarify, in Greece the dates are the opposite.
The first dyno is 06 of December of 2007, and the other one last week...

 

And on the same day is not accurate again since the fact that the ECU has not adjusted yet.
One way or an other, first of all the good thing is that at least I have not lost any power, the second is the torque increase, and the third is that the max power is 1000 rpms lower.

 

Agree, can't really verify if the intake made the gains but they are there. So I would be happy with them too.

 

Yes I will do dyno testing, etc. But for air intakes road/track testing is much more important. Generally you see big gains with the hood open on the dyno, but under normal driving conditions things can change.

I spent around 20 hours the past week testing out various boost programs for the R56, and so far I'm not happy with any of them! Much more work to do.

 

Interesting...are you having problems with the sport button and its boost-how its not consistent?

 

The biggest issue right now is the boost targets change on their own. I'm getting close to bypassing overboost and just setting boost where I want it. But I have more work to do.

 

....where you thinking of setting the boost?! hahaha The R56 your testing this all on, is its only mod a chip?

 

Yeah only mod is the R56 JB piggyback prototype. And lots of datalogging equipment (wideband, OBDII scanning, boost gauge, performance box, etc).

 

siliconintakes.com is out of 3" silicone joiners... any ideas for what to use instead?

 

do what im doing.. wait till either the 15th for blue ones or the 30th for the black ones!

zenaracing and samco (google it) are both good alternatives but samco doesnt have silicone joiners and zenaracing will cost you nearly double that of siliconeintakes, i think its like 17 dollars for joiners plus a 20 dollar shipping and handling. good luck with that one!

 

this is that Al piece that goes between the 3" end of the filter and the 3" end of the 90degree elbow... I don't think it comes in colors. I will probably spec some 304ss or T6061 aluminum 3" piping and just cut to size. I think Samco has these (calls them hose couplers maybe), but they cost $28 or so without shipping (summit racing has them). That is more than 3x the price of siliconeintakes.com, ouch.

 

I just went down to the muffler shop and had them cut me a 3" piece of 3" stainless pipe for free. I took it home, cleanedit, polished it, and scored the outside outer edges for grip. It has worked perfect for 10,000 miles

 

For you DIY-holics, www.onlinemetals.com has a pretty good selection of raw materials, including aluminum tubes. They also have plastic sheets, which I'm thinking of using for a homemade front splitter.

 

A buddy of mine swung by the office with his R56 & custom CAI - $49.97 for all parts. The metal bracket is only temporary since he had to run back to the store to get something more aesthetic. For an hour and a half under the hood & some ingenuity I thought it turned out pretty good.



&

 

4" length of T6-6061 AL (3" OD, 1/16" thick wall, 2.87" ID) is ~ $5.40 + ~$10 shipping. Not bad. If I can't find anything local that will work perfectly. Thanks for the link RIPPYMCS.

 

Hey,

Please please please can someone help, I have read nearly all the way through this thread looking for the answer to one question that I have, and havent found anything that helps :(
I am based in the UK and believe that UK cars dont have the MAF which you US guys have... Would this mean that the air intake pipe is 3" all the way, or 2.75" all the way?

If I take out the stock air box and simply attach a cone filter to the end of the stock pipe leading to the turbo, I need to know what size filter to go for (either 2.75 inlet or 3" inlet)

Or I may go down the route of having an 'elbow' or 90degree turn so that the filter goes round the back, but either way I still need to know the diameter of the UK pipe where it connects to the stock air box (which is where I would be attaching the filter if I didnt use an elbow, right??)

Thank you so much for any help
Nick

 

its not 3''. İts 2.75 where original rubber inlet connects to filter box.

 

Or 70mm. The best way to confirm is to just disconnect the air box and measure inlet.

 

^^ what he said

there is also something called a reducer so you can get piping from 70mm to 76mm

 

Ok and sorry to ask 2 questions but was the general opinion that a filter with a funnel top was noisier and hd better flow than a filter with a sealed top?

(sealed filter)



Open top

Which of these filters would you reckon is the better?

 

the one with the open top (assuming they are generally the same side) will have better flow only because it has more surface area, but will be restricted to the size of the actual tubes (someone correct me if im wrong)

after all these posts, im getting the feeling that different filters will barely differ in hp gains from each other. i think what it comes down to is the material you use, (pleated sheets, dry paper?, and foam), how well they filter, and how often you have to clean the filter.

i say go with the one that looks best to you? you are gonna have to take into consideration how it will fit in place of your stock air box. im not too sure about noise but i went with a alternative foam filter because alta uses it. sound... not sure. my cars somewhere in the atlantic sea

 

Does it make any difference how much of the air box you take off sound wise
Also are the scoop mods mandatory

 

I assume you are referring to removing the lower section or not as you have to remove the top section to do this mod. In that case no difference at all.

If you are looking to fit a filter in the stock box with upper section in place, it will make very little difference to sound over stock filter, the box muffles it.

The scoop mod is not compulsory but if the scoop is closed off, this mod will reduce performance as there will be a serious lack of cool airflow to the exposed filter. With this mod it is a case of open the scoop to get max airflow and achieve the maximum results. There has been a number of tests that have shown that an open scoop does drop the air temp around the intake and I think it is worthwhile even on cars with stock airboxes as it will lower the tamp of the airbox itself.

 

Ok, thanks, leaving the bottom section is a better option for me, I can't get access to fabricate a mount so leaving that section in may stop the filter moving around so much.
Now I just have to find the scoop mod post, shouldn't take more than an hour or two
This is all going to be done after MOT so I have a little time to plan etc

 

as an update to my previous question in regards to a 'silicone joiner', auto parts shops have lots of stainless steel muffler pieces. I found a 3" OD to 3" OD coupling for $1.99. It was probably about 4" in length. This should work for now, and I can cut it down with a hacksaw if I need to. I am sure the SS is heavier than the aluminum, but I think it should work. **this is for connecting the 3" flange of the filter to the 3" end of the 90degree silicone elbow**