Don't mean to bring a necrothread back to life, but I still haven't seen enough dyno results from this modification to prove ANYTHING. That is why I'm going to Dyno the car in the next upcoming few weeks. I already have a dyno slip for my Cooper S in bonestock.

Since than I've removed the resonator and 2nd catalytic converter and did this cheap mod.

I WILL post a picture of the dyno results for this mod.

We're getting to the hotter days of the month so keep these things in mind. However, my ECU has already adjusted to the air flow and I am feeling a bit more power in the upper band.

I did notice a loss on the low end of things, but that's probably because of a loss of back pressure from the 2nd cat res delete.

Anyways, I'll keep you guys informed. I'll post both dynos here in the next few weeks.

 

Dont do this mod in the end its worse for the car and makes it run like crap. Because the filter is directly on the MAF it messes with the airflow metering because it creates too much turbulence. Car is drivable but will run really oddly periodically, specially with any type of tune. And stay the hell away from tunes by ALTA.

 

Even with the 90 degree bend? And what's up with Alta?

 

yes the turbulence issues come from the filter being slapped directly onto the maf. And Alta blows ***** and steals tunes that's whats up. I don't have the MINI anymore ans since moving to an entirely different platform using tunes from company's that know whats up I can tell you ALTA is less then great.

 

Looking at doing something like this. Any concerns?

 

The biggest problem with the R56 platform and air intakes is the placement. The intake literally becomes a hot air intake. The stock air box on the R56 is actually.... not that bad. The filter is restrictive, yes, but the air box design at least sucks in "cooler" air rather then what happens when we install an aftermarket intake.

The only problem I see with this design is the MAF has been moved from factory location. Will it work? Yes. Is it better then stock position and slapping a filter on the end? Yes.... probably. Will it run weird still? Maybe. The 1.6L prince engine is kinda weird to begin with haha...

 

I thought there was some talk that hot air was actually better for performance and mpg?

 

Better MPG: possibly
Better performance: Nope. It could theoretically improve throttle response I guess, but I can't imagine anything you would notice in real life.

 

To be completely honest intakes really don't make a single difference performance wise until you start making some serious tuning changes or turbo swaps. They are great for noise thou, specially on the R56, you hear lots of BOV sounds.

I now have a 12' MK6 GTI with a K04 turbo swap and the intake I run provides good power gains up top but only because the K04 needs more breathing room. Without the intake I'm looking at about 290-300whp and with the intake its about 315-320whp up top. Good gains. On a stock car with a stock turbo you really aren't going to see much improvement performance wise, your butt dyno may tell you so but actual numbers wont agree. This is the same for the R56.

 

So I have a 2011 r56s I have attached a filter to the top connection but I still have the bottom half of the stock intake box that has a connection. What do I do with the bottom half of I have a cone filter directly connected to the top sorry I am a noob to this been searching for an answer for hours

 

Search through this thread and you will find the answer you want.... but since this stupid forum still emails me on some threads and I'm here now, I'll answer your cry for help.

The filter is installed directly onto the MAF housing. Post number 718 here, will show you this in the attached images.

The top half of the airbox is gone, useless now, so throw it away or hide it somewhere safe.

The bottom half of the oem airbox is also useless and should be removed as well. Same thing, throw it away, or hide it somewhere safe.

The only remaining part you should have from the oem airbox is the breather tube that feeds from the front of the car near the driver side headlight. This tube is visible in the images from post 718 I linked above.

Last thing, and this is entirely optional, you may want to zip tie or secure in some way the new CAI you've made to a place in the engine bay near the firewall that would provide it some support and lift the bottom of the filter off the lines that run below..... this isn't required though, but just something that can tidy up the install...

Simplest install in the history of DIYs.

A note...... Honestly, this is probably a bad idea to do, on the whole you wont gain much if any performance, you most likely will lose torque (this has been proven as the oem airbox is better and decently designed) down low, and the worst part is you've now slapped a filter onto the MAF. The MAF is what measures the air running into the engine, and its literally how the car decides how much boost and fuel it needs at a given time etc.... By removing the oem airbox and slapping a filter directly onto the MAF without any distance in between you've now created turbulent air flowing over the MAF sensor and this will screw with its fuel trimming and air measuring abilities, leading to a crappier running car. And if you buy a pre oiled filter such as a K and N? Say buh bye to your MAF, it'll get all gunked up with oil..... So make sure to buy a none oiled filter.... Trust me, I had a DIY intake like this on my old r56 and it never ran quite right afterwords.

The benefit of this install? It sounds cool and looks alright. That's it.

BUT, do as you please.

Cheers.

 

thank you for the reply. So do you recommend adding a 90* bend and some tubing to give distance from the maf and filter ?

 

The stock set-up was designed to give max power. Anything added will make more noise, maybe a tick more power. The noise you may hear most likely will not translate into power getting to the wheels. That being said, I am still playing money games with cold-air intakes and such. Games like "am I accelerating faster, or does it just SOUND that way?". Good times.

 

I used a generic air filter from k&n with a metal rim. After about 5K miles on it I noticed it was slowly rubbing its way through the high pressure fuel line as well as a hydraulic brake line. The filter was resting on the metal pipes. I used a large hose clamp and some random hardware from my local hardware store to mount it to the cowl panel to keep it off of the lines. If you have done this mod, make sure you check the parts below the filter to make sure it's not wearing though them through vibration over time.


Before:


After:

 

Listen to this guy. I have a very similar pod filter arrangement, but only because my larger turbo isn't compatible with the factory intake piping and it has a general higher demand for air flow at 22psi. If I could have, I would've kept the stock set-up. If I put my hand on the cone filter after driving the car for a bit, the surface is scorching hot. The R56 generates a ton of heat under the hood, and by exposing the filter you're definitely not going to draw any cool air - so if that's your ultimate goal, don't bother. It's good for "pssshhhhh" noises, or if you have a larger turbo than needs the extra air, but you will not gain any extra power for this setup with a stock or lightly modified configuration. The stock CAI is very good at isolating warm air. A decent drop-in panel filter will see you good for about 5bhp in the top-end.

 

Maybe this will help.
I am going back to my regional intake.

 

why is no one considering an intake bent 90degrees to the right.. toward the fresh air inlet near the drivers side head light?

*look at the intake for little 'big' brother, the Peugeot RCZR.. i realize there is no MAF.. but I would think we can use a short 5" section off the turbo (heading towards the firewall, same as OEM) & then 90 to the right with a MAF coupler/extension/AirFilter.

Im bad with photo shop.. but someone has to be able to visualize what im poking at here.. I hope.

 

I really think as long as there is hot air under hood none of our cold air solutions will be that effective to even to be noticed the only way it will work is to be boxed and isolated from heat, the Aem chai is a great design but very costly my suggestion is to blanket the turbo and save about 25 to 30 degrees under hood an a NACA air doc on the hood to direct outside air to the filter.i have a carbon hood which makes it easear to cut for NACA doc.
https://www.maperformance.com/produc...BoCXJAQAvD_BwE

 

Just look at the rczr airbox..its right near the headlight and partially enclosed to pull cold air from the front of the car. I badly want to mock up a test intake similar to this style.

 

Best option for a "Cold" intake is to upgrade the intercooler. Doesn't matter how cold the intake air through the filter is, because the turbo will beat the hell out of it and raise the temperature anyway. With a better intercooler, the turbo outlet air will be cooler before it gets into the engine, which is more important then being colder before the turbo.

 

Turbo is the key word in our confined little engine compartment, the WMW blanket will keep the hot side hot and allows for way less heat to be generated under hood the FMIC will get the cold side cool and then and only then our CAI will be effective...
njaremka,you nailed it.
Ben

 

I think the ONLY advantage to an aftermarket intake is the reduction of work loss across the turbo inlet. If the turbo has to work less to suck air, that should increase the response to of the turbo to spool up in speed. Of course, once you upgrade the intercooler, you are increasing the intake volume, which in turn reduces the throttle response... It a delicate balancing act if you aren't running an aftermarket tune.