I've been running with a filter slapped on the MAF for over 2 years straight now, and its been totally fine...

 

Do you have an air/fuel ratio (A/F) gauge on your MINI?

 

I have had a gauge for about 4 months.. it seems to run within normal operating ranges.

 

What type or ratios are you seeing on the gauge at startup -vs- running it on the highway or on the track? Just curious . . .

 

I just went through all 29 pages which filter is best to slap directly on the maf? K&n rx4990 or dryflow?

 

ddidnt read though the whole thread but how do you take tha black piece/plate off? Do I have to remove the whole scoop?

 

long as neither one is pre-oiled (you dont want an oiled one on their cause it will gunk up the MAF) then both would be fine I'd say. Also they should both be cone filters, not the cylindrical foam ones.

 

I definitely did not read anything but the first page. But I did this first thing when I got my Cooper since I had a KN filter that fit perfect on there. It makes the exhaust sound better and same with the BOV. But at the track I lost at least .1 seconds in a 1/4 mile. So it's not much loss. But any is a no in my book.

 

okay, i see that the kn is pre-oiled correct? If so can the dryflow fit directly on the maf? if not which filter is best for the direct maf attachment? Also which would make more noise, direct filter on maf... or bigger filter attached to silicone to maf

 

yeah usually all K&N's are pre-oiled it seems, I can't remember the exact size the inlet on the filter needs to be but its 3 inch I think. Basically any non oiled Cone shaped filter with a 3inch inlet will work.

 

Cone filters with a 3in inlet fit the MAF but 2.75in fits perfectly. I've run the MAF w/cone setup in the past and this is what I've found.

 

Just wondering if it's still advisable to remove the grille on 2011 models since I read that the ventilation through there has improved on the 2011 models.

 

I would still remove it, you will get more airflow, and it looks better....

 

I took it out on my 2011, my fan sometimes does not even run when I park at night and I am in Houston, On average it runs for about a minute or two less.

Sean

 

Thanks for the hint. Is the process any different on 2011 models for removing the grille?

 

I believe that on the older models the screw was a torx but it was a large phillips head on mine. Otherwise its the same

Sean

 

correct.

 

Here is my setup, freshly installed this morning. Sounds and looks great, my butt-dyno wants to tell me that I've got a little more pep but I'm guessing it's just my perception coupled with the WAY more aggressive sound. I found myself revving at stoplights just to hear the "pssSSSHHH!"

Tips for those interested:

- I got my AEM Dryflow 3" filter at Advance Auto for just under $60. Seems to be a regularly stocked item so shouldn't be hard to find. Carquest and Autozone only stocked pre-oiled filters.

- It is way easier to remove the MAF from the airbox if you take the entire box off first. Undo the hose clamp behind the MAF, then take off the top of the airbox (with the MAF connected to it) and remove the filter. Then, look on the front left corner (from your perspective looking into the engine bay) for a torx screw to remove. Then, pull the airbox bottom section up and you'll feel it "pop" loose from the little pegs that hold it in. To remove the intake tubing connected to the bottom of it, you twist it counterclockwise then you can just pull it out.

- To remove the grille, you MUST remove the hood scoop. This is a little more complicated if you have the tin heat shield that dealers often install to prevent hood scoop warping. Just remove that heat shield, then look at the underside of the hood and find the little plastic phillips head screw and remove that. Then, gently push up on the corners of the scoop from the bottom and then remove the entire scoop from the TOP. I know it looks like it should slide off, but it just pops up, held by 5 or so peg fasteners. There are 4 small phillips head screws to remove and then the grille just comes right off.

- Make sure to remove and save the rubber o-ring gasket that will probably still be on the MAF when you remove it from the breather box

- When you mount the filter to the MAF, you will want to push it all the way up over the 2nd lip, but don't. It will feel loose at first, but once you tighten that hose clamp down, everything will be nice and tight.

Overall, it took me 30 mins to figure everything out and will only take 15 minutes or so once you're comfortable with how everything goes in and out. Remember, NO PRE-OILED FILTERS! I know finding dry filters is a task, but don't mess up your precious because you got impatient.

 

Nice!

Honestly thou its just you perception of the sound making you think you have more power, if anything you just lost a bit of torque and power. The stock box is slightly better in this respect due to the outside air it draws in through the tube connected to the driver side front grill. All your doing now is sucking in hot engine air, effectively making a HAI (Hot Air Intake)

I've done the mod too, it sounds sweet, don't get me wrong, but you def aren't making any more power!

 

I like it, I wish I had known about the filter at advance earlier, oh well I had a giftcard anyways.

Sean

 

Yea, I know about the warm engine air thing but really once the engine heat soaks through the stock box it's about the same.. Seeing as how the Mini isn't a power monster to begin with, i'm just happy about the sound. If I really want speed I'll just take out the gsxr1300

 

haha yeah man bikes will def do it for ya in the speed depo

 

stick with a stock intake i/a temps are only 3-4 f higher than ambient temp.

 

i prefer the sound of the DIY intake!

 

I prefer horsepower over sound.