I too have noticed that at times my car seems to be as slow as (if not slower) than stock. Then other times the steering wheel tries to wrestle itself out of my hands because of the abundance of torque. I also noticed my casing for the tune has slight marks/ indentations on it. Almost like the plastic was near melting point and deformed around my K&N intakes metal heat-shield.

 

Do i have to go through the first time install everytime i remove and reinstall it? Or does it remember?

 

My JB+ is available for sale and posted on the classified section. Please let me know if anyone interested.

 

The JB+ is using the DME's own tables for the tuning. So expect boost to vary wildly based on many inputs. Even things that might not be perceptible to the driver like knock threshold, ambient pressure, etc, may result in performance variances. The vehicle does this both stock and tuned. At the end of the day though under any situation the car will be stock or much faster than stock with the JB+ installed. Never slower.

If the JB+ has a short or physical issue you'll get a corresponding (MAF related) fault light in dash. If you have that situation just contact our technical support for assistance. If you don't have a light in dash then its doing what it was designed to do.

 

+1
I also turned mine up just past the 12 o'clock position, probably around 55%, running 93 octane. Noticed a little more power and it's more consistant. I don't beat the hell out of it but the car feels pretty comfortable in that 55% range. I'm going to try a 75/25 e85 mix with 93 octane and do some more expermienting with the Torque app. Looking to see if I can improve any more. Pretty happy now though

 

Hey all! Quick/dumb question time:

Wife's car is a 2013 Mini Cooper S, automatic. I'm planning on buying one for her, since we all like a bit extra power, eh?

Anyways, two questions:

My plan was to get the car baseline-dynoed at a performance shop. IE, put it on the rollers, 100% stock, do some pulls, get the number. Then, I'd like to turn it off, follow the instructions, plug the JB tuner in, and then do re-pulls, seeing the magical numbers go from X to X+Y, where Y is the number that makes me think it was worth 300 bucks . Is this a logical plan? Does the DME/ECU need some time to re-learn before doing the repulls? Should I go drive it around for 20 minutes first, then re-pull? Or does it not matter?

Second, is it "safe" with an aftermarket intake as well? I was planning on tossing in some sort of aftermarket intake, be it a drop in filter or a full-pipe intake, and just wanted to ensure the piggy-backness of it would support that. I'm just too used to Subarus/Evos, where every-little-modification should receive a tune change.

Thanks in advance! And I'll most-assuredly post dyno before/after.

Matt

 

It's compatible with an intake.

But why are you bothering with a dyno? It's been proven many times by many people to add between 10-15 hp to an otherwise stock engine.

Just plug it in and enjoy.

 

I would plug it in first, give it 100 miles then get it dyno'd. Take it off and do another run. When you unplug it, the power loss is immediate. But when you plug it in, it needs at least 50 miles before you're fully adapted. You'll obviously need to plug it in again and give it time to adapt when you're done but I think that will give you the best results. I've seen very few stock to JB dyno's on MCS so I'm interested to see your #'s. And it is worth $300 IMO.
I went with a k&n drop in filter. I haven't seen much evidence other than looks and noise for any intake systems. Good luck

 

+1

 

I have found the JB+ a good investment, particularly in terms of dollars/performance ratio. The butt dyno tells you there is a difference, but the one empirical measurement I have is the increase in boost - about 4 psi, as measured/displayed on the Torque app.

About a year ago I had the opportunity to put the car on a dyno, so as the poster here, I thought I would get a measurement of difference in performance on the dyno. Because of the way the chip interacts with the car's computer, changes come slowly. A test with the JB+, then immediately after taking it off, showed little difference.

I wrote Terry (Berger Motorsports) about this dyno measurement and he responded that since the JB+ works with the ECU, a learning process which can take up to 200 miles of driving to have the effects take place, removing it also can take some time before the ECU behaves in the stock manner. It is not like taking one chip out of a computer and replacing it with another chip.

 

+1
I installed my previously owned JB+ in my Wife's R60 for a weekend trip. Got back home and installed back in my R56. The wife complained for a week stating
"what did you do to my car, it feels all punchy"
She did not drive it at all during the road trip with it in.

All I could do was 😁

 

Well it seems ever since MINI did that last update to my car about 6 weeks ago I am not getting past 15# of boost no matter what. Sport mode, ambient air from 30F to 70F , it just seems to stop at 15 where as before I was seeing 18-19.

I am starting to think they have found way at BMW to stop the JB+ , anyone else see this ?

NO other changes to my car, just MINI updated the service interval on brakes and oil.

 

That's a pretty big decrease in boost. I had my MCS serviced at a MINI delership about 6 weeks ago as well. I removed the JB before bringing it in, put it back on when the car was done. I haven't noticed any decrease. It needed to go through the 50 mile or so adaptation period once it was back on, but after that it was back to higher boost. Could it be something else?

 

that's why I'm posting, did they do the upgrade of software to your car ?

And no codes, hidden or otherwise, had MINI tech check everything last week when I had xenons programed, one old lean code stored but nothing else.

If the boost seemed down every where I might suspect something else but the fact it seems to be limited to 15 has me suspicious , acts like when you hit a rev limiter or top speed limiter, great all the way up to 15 but I'm used to seeing more, I think once it warms up to over 70F again if it don't start getting 18-19 again I'm gonna have to take it in, but if it's not creating any codes not sure what can be done, not Like I can say hey I used to get 19# with my JB+ now I don't.

Unless the JB+ has failed, but I think that would give me MAF codes atleast.

 

Yes, as far as I know, they upgraded during the service. I also had a break and oil interval. What kind of boost are you getting without the JB? Weather conditions obviously play a part too. Has it been cooler out since the decrease? I've ran the torque app a lot, especially when I first put the JB on. The boost was never 100% consistant but the power I felt was. 60 degree day, the boost was down, 80 degrees and it was up. I'm in FL, it's always pretty warm so I can't test in cold/dry winter temps but I'd imagine that would really lower the psi. If you don't feel a difference, I wouldn't be concerned.

 

Hi guys let me know if your interested. Just got it last month but now I'm thinking of a full ECU upgrade. thanks

 

Anyone got a link or can email me the CAN TOOL instructions ? BMS must have really got the screws put to them as they won't even get me a copy, just say not supported. Like I know that, just need to make changes and forgot how to.

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ct-thread.html

 

helps but I know there was more to it.

Any idea if the can tool will delete bulb out warnings on the fly ?

 

Unless there is a hidden menu, then as far as I know it cannot do that.

 

You will see less boost in colder weather. : )

 

I just installed my Jb and I don't seem to hear the popping anymore, is this normal. Or what's up. I only put 6 miles on it so far.

 

Make sure the sports button is on

mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer

 

It was. not sure may have just not heard it.just weird tho

 

Was the car warmed up? It needs to be before it will pop.