Well it's 14' here this am. Only had it running for 10 mins. Not sure . maybe that's it. I will check it out again later.

 

Sometimes mine takes a few miles to warm up and that's in 70F weather. The hotter the EGT's are the more pop and crackle. The JB won't make the pops go away

mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer

 

Ok cool. Probably does that all the time. But now I'm just listening and looking for everything.
How long does it take to adapt.

 

I noticed a difference after about 15 miles and it seemed to be fully adapted at around 100 miles. I took it easy the first 20-30 miles and slowly drove it harder. Use 93 octane if it's available.

 

Ok. Yeah that's what I use.
It's snowing here from Friday. I have not been driving it. I will see what happens. .I think it still needs to learn / adapt to the system.

 

Big surprise, still having problems with this unreliable thing. I thought I had it working nicely at 55%, but all of the sudden it stopped working there. I've tried turning it up....turning it down....nothing. Halfway through my track day on Saturday it started working, but after the car cooled and sat overnight....nothing.

I don't understand the website when it says "Unlike other N18 piggyback tuners this one actually works and completely transforms the driving experience", but they make no mention of constantly having to adjust it, remove it, go through adaptation stages, etc.

 

I had a JB+ on my R60s for over a year. Adjusted it up 5% once. Never had an issue. Always use top tier 93 octane fuel.


How can you tell when its working and when its not ? since it works with the factory DME it takes into account temp of both air and engine as well as other things.

 

Sounds like you just got a faulty one. Contact BMS, I'm sure they'll send you a new one. I've only taken mine off for MINI service. Never had an issue once it's on. I'd give it another chance with a new one, I've had no issues. I've ran it at the default 50% on 93 octane, turned it up to 80% running higher octane, turned it back down... Power increased and decreased as advertised using the dial.

 

Sometimes the car feels normal (even sluggish when not up to operating temp), but when it's "working" the car feels like a rocketship. Verified with boost readings from Torque Pro. I also always use top tier 93 from Costco.

I've talked to someone from BMS, they essentially said it was working as designed and to fiddle with it, and it's unlikely that mine is faulty. I'd be open to trying a new one.

 

How long does it take to adapt to the car mileage time etc. when installed?

 

That's because the car limits boost when its not up to full operating temp. Seeing as the JB+ still uses factory mapping its just even more pronounced. You shouldn't be on it when you're not up to temp anyway.....

 

+1 When possible I try not to even drive off after a cold start until the rpms drop below 1k. The engine does warm up pretty quick but I give it about 10 minutes of driving before I let it go over 2k rpm.

 

I'd give it about 100 miles of driving. You'll notice a difference within the first 20 but I think after 100 miles it's fully adapted. I took it easy for the first 50 miles or so. Any time you unplug it and plug it back in, you will have to go through this process. But I've only taken it off once for a service visit. I've mess around with the dial once fully adapted and it works good, didn't need to unplug it or anything. But I felt that everytime I moved the dial, there was a slight adaptation period.

 

2k would be like limp mode , I'd say keep it below 4k but that's with an auto , and too little of rpm can be Harder on a motor than a few more rpm. I'd say keep throttle less than 50% for a bit and let car handle the rest. Just my opinion .
[

QUOTE=MiniSkoon;4042057]+1 When possible I try not to even drive off after a cold start until the rpms drop below 1k. The engine does warm up pretty quick but I give it about 10 minutes of driving before I let it go over 2k rpm.[/QUOTE]

 

[QUOTE=rckrzy1;4042071]2k would be like limp mode , I'd say keep it below 4k but that's with an auto , and too little of rpm can be Harder on a motor than a few more rpm. I'd say keep throttle less than 50% for a bit and let car handle the rest. Just my opinion .

Yeah, I guess it depends on your set-up. I have the JB+ turned to about 80% right now and there is definitely decent boost at 2k, so the turbo is getting worked. Otherwise, yes I'd probably go a little higher in the RPM range when the engine isn't fully warmed up.

 

Right, but sometimes when it's fully warmed up the tune "works", sometimes it doesn't.

If the car limits boost when cold, then why not flog it when it's cold? I'm under warranty :P

 

problem with that train of thought is...what happens if the damage, if any, caused by flogging a cold turbo engine doesn't reach critical mass before the warranty ends? but if your car is a lease, then heck...

 

Anyone take the Oregon DEQ emissions test with a JB+ installed? If you needed to take it off how far in advance. For those not living here, it is just a plug into the port, no physical inspection, etc. Hate to remove it if I don't have to.

 

You should have absolutely no issues with an emissions check through the OBD2 port or a sniff test. A California-like visual you'd have problems because I don't think it has CARB approval yet.

 

It takes 30 seconds to remove and 30 miles to undapt, but it wouldn't hurt emissions anyways, only visual

mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer

 

Thanks for the quick replies.

You must be a youngster, 30 seconds? It took me closer to 45 seconds to install, must be old age. I've just quickly grown to love it so I didn't want to remove unless absolutely needed.

One other ? - when not in sport mode and slowing down from 45mph into a sharp right turn, then on acceleration a real delay hits . . . is that drive by wire, turbo lag or something else entirely?

 

So I got a JB+ today for my mini CMS and it's been noticeable and fun! I drove about 100 miles today, have the JB+ set to its default 12 o'clock setting, and am running a tank of 91 octane chevron pump gas with a bottle of techron treatment added.

I'm getting a CEL which reads as a "lean fuel mixture bank 1" code. I am assuming this may be due to the break in period and possibly because I'm only running 91? I do not want to hunt for 93, and my girlfriend will be driving this too, so I don't want to complicate her life by needing hard to find (in San Francisco) 93+ octane gas.

Should I dial the JB+ back a notch? Will the CEL self clear or will I need to clear it myself? I have a cheap obd2 reader wifi device and use dash command, but this code will not clear out. I assume disconnecting the battery will clear it, but also reset the DME too and just come back when it re adapts to the JB+.

Ps. Yes I used the search function and read this thread for over an hour, but I'm only seeing lean fuel mix CELs in relation to JCWs. I have an S, N18 of course.

Thanks!

 

If you can't get 93 octane, I'd dial it back a little bit, maybe to the 11 o'clock position. Try unplugging your battery, and remove the JB. Reconnect the battery and drive around a little and make sure the CEL doesn't come back on. If you're good, then reinstall the JB like you did when you first got it. You should still see a difference in performance with it dialed back a little. Maybe you just got a batch of crappy gas. Next fill up, turn it back up to 50% and see if the light comes on again. I think the JB/MINI is very sensitive to octane. I have mine turned up to about 75-80% and I use a 75/25 mix of 93 octane/e85 to make about 96 octane. No issues what so ever, good luck.

 

Surely hit up another gas station and I would think that the can of techron has a diluting effect on overall Octane. It wouldn't be the first time that someone got bad gas, has happened to me several times.

 

For those with the JB+, if you need a CAN tool to delete the CEL off the dash from your DP, message me. I'm selling it for $150 shipped. I have no use for it as it's the last thing I have since I sold my MINI. Thanks!