Drivetrain Burger Motorsports (BMS) Tune(s)
A friend of mine bought a used JB+ for her 2013 JCW and was getting a P0507 (high idle) code. It was a very unusual code that no one had reported to Terry. I helped with code reading and clearing using my Scanguage II. After some testing with and without the JB+, Terry graciously swapped out the chip and completely solved the problem. Now she and I are big BMS evangelists. Terry, you rock!
A friend of mine bought a used JB+ for her 2013 JCW and was getting a P0507 (high idle) code. It was a very unusual code that no one had reported to Terry. I helped with code reading and clearing using my Scanguage II. After some testing with and without the JB+, Terry graciously swapped out the chip and completely solved the problem. Now she and I are big BMS evangelists. Terry, you rock!
To this day I have to clear the code every month. I'll contact Terry again to see about a swap.
Update 7/9/15: I received the replacement JB+ on 5/11 and have seen zero CEL's. Thanks Terry!
Last edited by devicemanager; Jul 9, 2015 at 01:33 PM.
Interested to hear how this works out. I also have a '13 R56 JCW.
I emailed Terry and Jon on 3/10/14 to report a P0507 code. Terry stated "We've noticed some of the JCW cars need the CT connected full time to keep the light off. But since you already have the CT, can you use that to read the code so we can get BMW's definition?"
To this day I have to clear the code every month. I'll contact Terry again to see about a swap.
To this day I have to clear the code every month. I'll contact Terry again to see about a swap.
Does the ECU eventually see the fuel trims and make corrections, making it revert back to normal?
Someone told me that this chip just falsifies the signal to the ECU in order to trick it into creating more boost, and that eventually it will revert once it learns what's happening.
Someone told me that this chip just falsifies the signal to the ECU in order to trick it into creating more boost, and that eventually it will revert once it learns what's happening.
Does the ECU eventually see the fuel trims and make corrections, making it revert back to normal?
Someone told me that this chip just falsifies the signal to the ECU in order to trick it into creating more boost, and that eventually it will revert once it learns what's happening.
Someone told me that this chip just falsifies the signal to the ECU in order to trick it into creating more boost, and that eventually it will revert once it learns what's happening.
OK, Manic people are telling my that the JB+ drops off at 5K where as the manic pulls to redline. Check my video, I did a run starting at 72 and it pulled all the way to redline , granted that after 5K it was not changing RPM as it was lower speeds but I have a clubman and aerodynamics start to become a big factor. I have the factory IC and it was about 129F with 19.4 PSI , so I'm sure with a new IC (next project) it would have been better but does a manic really pull harder to redline ?
The JB+ will follow the same shape as the stock HP curve just offset at a higher value. You'll notice that the HP starts to fall off after 5500 rpm. This is an inherent limitation of the device.
A tune can modify the mapping so that the HP will continue to increase further toward redline. Obviously with limitations but this is NOT something that is unique to Manic. How much it "pulls to redline" really depends on hardware limits and how aggressive you want the tune to be at higher RPMs.
A tune can modify the mapping so that the HP will continue to increase further toward redline. Obviously with limitations but this is NOT something that is unique to Manic. How much it "pulls to redline" really depends on hardware limits and how aggressive you want the tune to be at higher RPMs.
I just installed the JB+ tonight and Wow! I'm impressed, I did not want to stop driving, it pulled enough for my needs. I was debating whether to go JB or Manic tune, I am sure the Manic is a step above, but for the price and ease of install and uninstall I don't see how you can beat it.
I'd like to just drive a Manic tuned Mini just for comparison, but I'm happy with the JB+ for now.
I'd like to just drive a Manic tuned Mini just for comparison, but I'm happy with the JB+ for now.
I've got about 50 miles since installing the JB+ and it's certainly an improvement in the cars performance. City driving in non-sport mode overall feels stronger. Sport mode is just as fun as before but more aggressive. With 91 octane I set the JB+ at 40% or the 11 o'clock position which seems to be the sweet spot in overall performance. No more performance mods plans since it's my wifes daily driver. Truly the best bang for the buck in terms of ease of install over a custom tune.
Power mods: Helix intercooler, Alta bov spring, NM catback and drop in dry air filter.
Power mods: Helix intercooler, Alta bov spring, NM catback and drop in dry air filter.
for anyone running Water meth.......im currently running a 500cc nozzle with a 50/50 water meth mix......and im at 80% on the JB+.....does anyone see a reason why i couldnt run the JB+ at 100%...?
So I've had a JB+ on my GP for a few weeks now - I initially set it to about 35% to play it safe and have seen max boost figures around 17psi on WOT pulls (compared to ~16psi w/o JB+). I have a few track days coming up and was looking to turn it up a bit, so I added a can of Torco (fuel should be at something like 102-104 octane according to their blending chart) and turned the dial up to 50%. Boost is up to just a hair under 19psi and timing looks stable, although it's obviously hard to watch it while flat-out in this car and I don't have enough logged data yet to draw a definitive conclusion as to whether I'm ok at this level or not.
Does anyone see a problem running 19psi on a GP motor in a racetrack-type environment with 100+ octane and an FMIC?
Does anyone see a problem running 19psi on a GP motor in a racetrack-type environment with 100+ octane and an FMIC?
I've hit 21.5 and nothing happened . That was only once . Was not that hot out , maybe 80f. Kinda shocked me. Again it was only once .
Either the thing picked exactly the wrong time to finish adapting or the car is running a different boost curve in Sport mode, because I was hitting 21psi constantly at the track. I actually did several WOT pulls to redline on the highway driving to the track and it didn't top 19, but as soon as I hit the track it was reading 21 - and it stayed at 21 even after I turned it down. Thank God I had the CAN tool going so I could keep an eye on timing and 103 octane in the tank. I never saw evidence of timing being pulled, but I did blow out the IC outlet hose at the end of my 2nd session.
The car was stupid fast, but seeing a constant 21psi at WOT was distracting to say the least. I'm running Lime Rock tomorrow, hopefully the car has had time to adapt to the 40% setting and won't top 19 this time...
The car was stupid fast, but seeing a constant 21psi at WOT was distracting to say the least. I'm running Lime Rock tomorrow, hopefully the car has had time to adapt to the 40% setting and won't top 19 this time...
Installed a N18 JB+ in my Cooper S Countryman just the other day. First of all I will say that I'm amazed of how much of a difference it makes, did not expect that.
Today was the first day I could really push the car after installing the tune and I ran into one problem. I was going into a fairly aggressive acceleration in 2nd gear, when suddenly I was getting no response from the car despite having the gas pedal down. The car wasn't accelerating at all, it was like the car had just cut out. I let go off both clutch and accelerator and waited a while and then it was fine again.
I haven't experienced anything like that before (even on track) before the tune. I've turned the tune down a bit now and will see if it happens again. Have anybody experienced anything similar?
Today was the first day I could really push the car after installing the tune and I ran into one problem. I was going into a fairly aggressive acceleration in 2nd gear, when suddenly I was getting no response from the car despite having the gas pedal down. The car wasn't accelerating at all, it was like the car had just cut out. I let go off both clutch and accelerator and waited a while and then it was fine again.
I haven't experienced anything like that before (even on track) before the tune. I've turned the tune down a bit now and will see if it happens again. Have anybody experienced anything similar?
I'm running mostly 98 (Euro), I think that's around 94 US. I had it on the default setting when it happened, have tuned it down slightly now.
I currently have a '11 MCS with the BMS tune and LOVE it! I'm getting ready to place an order for a 2016 fJCW Countryman, and I just want to make sure I can swap it over. From everything I've read, there doesn't seem to be any issues, but I want to make certain.
Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the help!
I currently have a '11 MCS with the BMS tune and LOVE it! I'm getting ready to place an order for a 2016 fJCW Countryman, and I just want to make sure I can swap it over. From everything I've read, there doesn't seem to be any issues, but I want to make certain.
Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the help!







