Is the can tool the only way to delete it it cam you use a Solis scanner etc.

 

CAN tool is the only way, unless you get an ECU tune.

 

Akrapovic Delete-R should work for a CEL caused by a high flow for catless DP.

 

And any other CEL codes...

 

I put a jb+ with a 12 o'clock setting on my Countryman S and it was great for a few days before I got a lean fuel mix CEL and an occasional short burst of chatter and loss of power from the engine at WOT. I thought this might only be the car getting used to the jb+ or the 91 octane being insufficient, and we would all get along with each other and have a blast.

That did not stop, so I removed the jb+ and the CEL eventually cleared out. I have driven a couple hundred miles since, been through 1.5 tanks of gas, and have an otherwise stock car. After uninstalling the jb+ I unhooked the battery overnight to attempt to clear the ECU for good measure.

Problem is, car feels slower as expected, but I still get the occasional metallic chatter from the engine and the power stumbles for a split second at WOT.

I did have a techron additive in the first tank with the JB+ when I got the first CEL and stumble. Second tank I added some Lucas octane booster with mmt in it thinking my lean mix was due to poor gas or the jb+ may not have been happy with the 91 octane. I also stepped the jb+ down to 11 o'clock. Now I've had the jb+ off for a couple hundred miles and topped the tank about 50% since and diluted that octane booster.

I'm perplexed now that I still have the chatter and stumble. Has anyone had similar issues with the jb+ or similar issues outside of using one? I think this is engine knock, it doesn't feel like fuel cut, and the timing chain issues I've been reading about seem like a far more pronounced power loss.

Regardless, if it's still doing this on next fill up, it's going to the dealer. Any sagely advice would be appreciated.

 

Sounds like fuel quality is the issue may be causing engine knock. If you haven't already, I would start with a clean slate and run the tank near empty (with easy driving.) I'm assuming you don't have access to 93 or E85. Keep the dial at the 11 0'clock position and reinstall the unit per the websites instructions, and only use 91 octane. I would avoid any kind of additives or octane boosters from AutoZone ect. For the most part, I think they do more harm than good. It's possible you also got crappy gas which added to the problem, it happens, try a different station. Good luck

 

Looks like it was bad gas or that octane booster was pure garbage. Ran the tank almost empty and am good again!

 

Hey guys, I have a JB+ and run on 98 octane(Sweden) and ocassionally 95 when I can't get 98. Should I just leave it at 50% or change it to 55-60%. THANX

 

If I had 95/98 id run it at 60% no problem.

 

Is that RON, or AKI octane rating? In my area in US we have 92 octane (AKI) which translates to 96-98 RON if I'm reading Wikipedia correctly. I am running 50% (default) per BMS recommendation.

Edit: wiki says Sweden uses RON. It also says E85 is available if you want to go to the "dark side" (turning the JB+ up, possibly to 100%). People have had mixed experiences mixing E85 and you have to monitor timing closely if you go that route.

 

98 RON is 93,1 AKI. I won't put E85 in my car, it get's so messy.

 

E85, messy? If you can't up it past 98 RON, I wouldn't turn the dial past 55-60%. I've been mixing E85 with 93 octane for a couple of months now, not a single issue. It's $1.99/gal and the station is 2 miles from my house, a no-brainer for me. I've had the dial turned up as high as about 90%, the car seemed a little too jerky, dialed it back to 75-80% as it's starting to get pretty warm out and it seems perfect. It hasn't happened yet, but I keep a screw driver in the car so if I ever need gas and I'm not near an E85 station, I can dial it down and just use 93. good luck

 

I ran 11 gallons of CA 91 with 3 gallons of E85 for 15K. I never had an issue, the car made great power, drove smooth and on my particular GP, ran my JB+ at 100%. Every car is slightly different, but that was my JB+ experience

mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer

 

Got any logs you can share? Were you also running meth at that time and what were your mods/how much power were you making?

Thanks

 

I did 250whp on a DynoJet, and AFR was right at 12.1 at 20psi. This was before Meth, but I was full catless on a stick JCW exhaust.
Today I'm pushing a lot more TQ with a bigger turbo, meth and a Manic 3+ tune. My big valve head is next. I'm running 10.8 AFR and 24psi and 100% meth with a 1.0mm nozzle and my HPFP is smooth at 2770 psi and I have seen my HPFP at 3200psi on 40% E85. (The late 12' and 13' N18 have the upgraded Bosh HPFP. I'm keeping AFR rich, since I'm still on stock internals (expect ARP 2000 series rod bolts). I may or may not do forged internals after my head. It sounds bad, but I'm curious what my stock rods and pistons can hold. I know for a fact I will be doing forged internals at sometime.

mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer

 

That was on the JB+ maxed out and E20ish (30% E85) for fuel? Would be really curious to see a log of that.

Interesting...I'm guessing the higher rail pressures on 40% E85 were to keep IDC in check? Do you suspect you've hit the limit of the stock injectors?

It's encouraging that you are running that rich at those power levels but you're also supplementing quite a bit of fuel with that meth setup.

Would still like to see logs if you have them.

I'll start logging soon and share my results.

I hooked our Mini up to INPA yesterday and it was communicating but I need to update the Daten files for the N18. However that same cable did not work with ScanXL, so I may need to play with it more or get a different cable. Not sure if the one we are using is ELM compatible. I ordered the OBDlink LX for routine monitoring and will see what the sampling rate is like. If need be I'll order a regular cable for logging.

Thanks

 

Anyone have the JB+ on a 2015 Countryman All4S? Any issues or problems? Is there any issue with heat soak on stock setting?

 

Well add me to the long list of JB+ fans! Today I finally put the JB+ on my 2013 R56s, and it transforms the car! This is the poor man's JCW. No other mod comes close to bang for the buck IMHO. Simply awesome!!!! So the only non-cosmetic mods I have so far are: BMS clutch stop, torque arm insert, JB+. Still coming: rims & rubber and rear sway bar, and that'll be it for me.
Motor on!

 

Lol. Famous last words. Right up there with "Hey ya'll...watch this" :-)

 

well I didn't say for how long that'll be it

 

Hi guys,

I reinstalled my jb+ yesterday (21012 MCS) and filled the car with 94 gas (Canada). I normally use 91. I got check engine light today. I removed the jb+ and plugged in the ELM OBD device. It gave me 0597 code. The error is still there.

Any idea, what could be causing this? Is this serious. Please help.

 

CODE P0597 thermostat heater control circuit / open.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ode-p0597.html

 

Thanks for the quick response. Can I still drive the car? Once it's fixed, can I re-install the jb+?

 

The P0597 is triggered when there is an open or short thermostat heather control circuit. If there are no coolant system leaks then replace the thermostat asap. Check your temps if you are driving it.

 

I drove the car again for a short trip. The check engine error went away after couple of hours. This leads to me believe that it must be something to do with the JB+. I really do wanna put it back, but I'm not sure if that error come back again. Any thoughts?