How To Check engine light code p0597
#1
Check engine light code p0597
hi again everyone, i just got a check engine light on my car and its "CODE P0597 thermostat heater control circuit / open." i saw one thread here at NAM that its is the thermostat unit. can anyone confirm me on this issue please. is this a serious issue? can i continue riving the car while waiting for the part? please help. and thanks in advance
#2
P0597
I have/had the same code in my 2008 clubman S. I have gone so far as to change out the thermostat housing (which includes the thermostat) today and replace the coolant. After 4 hours of work, I cleared the codes and started her up. Same code keeps coming up. Very disappointing. I guess I need to call the dealership. CRAP!! If the code is correct, I'm thinking one could continue to drive with the thermostat open. At least the car won't overheat. But with a new thermostat in, I'm thinking it is an electrical or sensor issue. Any thoughts?
#3
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How hard ws it to replace? Looks like mine has failed. Car is throwing the P0597 code. I believe this is what I need to replace?
http://www.waymotorworks.com/thermos...5-r56-r57.html
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/thermos...5-r56-r57.html
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
#4
P0597
Took the car in today. My repair was correct but I forgot to re-connect the lower electrical plug. There are 2 on the thermostat housing. That only cost me 110 to find out, but hey, they washed my car.
As for how hard, not too bad. Took a couple hours, minimal tools. I have the bentley manual, but that was essentially useless with crappy pictures. You'll need your car on ramps.
Basically, drain the coolant. I did that from below by disconnecting the coolant hose as it crosses below the radiator. Then take the air filter housing off and the associated duct work. Place a 2nd bucket under engine to catch coolant released when you undo hoses from octopus. The 3 bolts holding unit on can only be accessed after you disconnect hoses. There are also a bunch of electrical cables in front of the octopus. I took off the front plastic plate and then lifted entire plastic housing up off its bracket so I could move the cables around. I don't know if I needed to take the face plate off exposing the jumble of wires underneath to lift it off the bracket. It was easy to put back on. Disconnect all plug-type connectors as you go along...there are a bunch. Good news is you can't put them back together incorrectly cuz they only fit their proper receptical. There is a clip you'll need to pull out on the lowest and largest hose. That came out easily. Pay careful attention to how it comes out as that is how it will have to go back in. You can not force it in any other way. Then replace unit, bolt, CONNECT LOWER PLUG, connect hoses, connect upper electricals, replace air filer stuff, add back coolant. I got the air out by just squeezing hoses. Ended with just knuckle scrapes and no extra parts. Warm engine and check for leaks. Top off coolant tank when cooled. Clear code and you should be good to go.
You may also want to change oil as filter is super easy to get to with everything off.
As for how hard, not too bad. Took a couple hours, minimal tools. I have the bentley manual, but that was essentially useless with crappy pictures. You'll need your car on ramps.
Basically, drain the coolant. I did that from below by disconnecting the coolant hose as it crosses below the radiator. Then take the air filter housing off and the associated duct work. Place a 2nd bucket under engine to catch coolant released when you undo hoses from octopus. The 3 bolts holding unit on can only be accessed after you disconnect hoses. There are also a bunch of electrical cables in front of the octopus. I took off the front plastic plate and then lifted entire plastic housing up off its bracket so I could move the cables around. I don't know if I needed to take the face plate off exposing the jumble of wires underneath to lift it off the bracket. It was easy to put back on. Disconnect all plug-type connectors as you go along...there are a bunch. Good news is you can't put them back together incorrectly cuz they only fit their proper receptical. There is a clip you'll need to pull out on the lowest and largest hose. That came out easily. Pay careful attention to how it comes out as that is how it will have to go back in. You can not force it in any other way. Then replace unit, bolt, CONNECT LOWER PLUG, connect hoses, connect upper electricals, replace air filer stuff, add back coolant. I got the air out by just squeezing hoses. Ended with just knuckle scrapes and no extra parts. Warm engine and check for leaks. Top off coolant tank when cooled. Clear code and you should be good to go.
You may also want to change oil as filter is super easy to get to with everything off.
#5
P0597
I thought I posted an update but I don't see it. I will post again, but please excuse me if the first post shows up also. I took the car to the dealer today (Flow Mini of Raleigh) and was informed that I forgot to re-connect the lower of the 2 electrical connections to the thermostat housing. That cost me $110, but, hey, they also washed my car.
It took me about 3 hours to change out the thermostat housing. No super special tools required. I have the Bentley manual, but the pictures are poor quality and the step-by-step instructions are poor. It is really only good for a general idea of what to do.
Step 1: Car on ramps. DISCONNECT BATTERY. Drain coolant. I disconnected the main hose that traverses the bottom of the radiator and drained into a bucket.
Step 2: Remove air filter box and associated duct work (you'll need star bit sockets or star bit screw driver). The duct connection at the grill is a little tricky and took a few minutes to figure out. Disconnect electricals along the way. I thought they should be color coded, but it seems they are matched so you can't put them back together incorrectly. But you can fail to reconnect them.
Step 3: There is a plastic housing with electrical cables directly in front of, and blocking access to, the thermostat housing. I lifted that straight up off its bracket so I could move it around to gain access to the hose clamps. I took off the front of the plastic housing first, but I'm not sure I needed to do that. It simply snapped back on when I put everything back together.
Step 4: Place another bucket under engine beneath thermostat. Disconnect hoses to thermostat...there are a bunch of them. Coolant will spill out.
Step 5: Undo 3 bolts holding unit. Remove pin-like thing on backmost large hose. Pay careful attention to how it comes out as it has to go back on the exact same way. It slips on easily if you do it correctly. Now you can remove thermostat.
Step 6: Put everything back together. DON'T FORGET THE LOWER CONNECTOR!
Step 7: Refill coolant. I used Zerex G-05. Fill tank. I got the air out by squeezing the hoses until no more bubbles came out and adding coolant to the tank along the way. It took a little more than a gallon of 50-50 mix. Start engine, look for leaks, and run till warm, cool, top off tank.....I am sure ther must be threads on changing coolant so I won't go over that here.
Step 8: Clear codes.
Overall, it was not hard. Some of the hose clamps were in an awkward position to start which made it difficult getting pliers on them. And it took a few minutes along the way to figure out how things were attached so as to unattach them. However, I think any mechanically inclined person should be able to do this.
It took me about 3 hours to change out the thermostat housing. No super special tools required. I have the Bentley manual, but the pictures are poor quality and the step-by-step instructions are poor. It is really only good for a general idea of what to do.
Step 1: Car on ramps. DISCONNECT BATTERY. Drain coolant. I disconnected the main hose that traverses the bottom of the radiator and drained into a bucket.
Step 2: Remove air filter box and associated duct work (you'll need star bit sockets or star bit screw driver). The duct connection at the grill is a little tricky and took a few minutes to figure out. Disconnect electricals along the way. I thought they should be color coded, but it seems they are matched so you can't put them back together incorrectly. But you can fail to reconnect them.
Step 3: There is a plastic housing with electrical cables directly in front of, and blocking access to, the thermostat housing. I lifted that straight up off its bracket so I could move it around to gain access to the hose clamps. I took off the front of the plastic housing first, but I'm not sure I needed to do that. It simply snapped back on when I put everything back together.
Step 4: Place another bucket under engine beneath thermostat. Disconnect hoses to thermostat...there are a bunch of them. Coolant will spill out.
Step 5: Undo 3 bolts holding unit. Remove pin-like thing on backmost large hose. Pay careful attention to how it comes out as it has to go back on the exact same way. It slips on easily if you do it correctly. Now you can remove thermostat.
Step 6: Put everything back together. DON'T FORGET THE LOWER CONNECTOR!
Step 7: Refill coolant. I used Zerex G-05. Fill tank. I got the air out by squeezing the hoses until no more bubbles came out and adding coolant to the tank along the way. It took a little more than a gallon of 50-50 mix. Start engine, look for leaks, and run till warm, cool, top off tank.....I am sure ther must be threads on changing coolant so I won't go over that here.
Step 8: Clear codes.
Overall, it was not hard. Some of the hose clamps were in an awkward position to start which made it difficult getting pliers on them. And it took a few minutes along the way to figure out how things were attached so as to unattach them. However, I think any mechanically inclined person should be able to do this.
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Josefz2 (12-14-2021)
#7
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#8
The other is the coolant temperature sensor connection.
- Erik
The following users liked this post:
Josefz2 (12-14-2021)
#10
I thought I posted an update but I don't see it. I will post again, but please excuse me if the first post shows up also. I took the car to the dealer today (Flow Mini of Raleigh) and was informed that I forgot to re-connect the lower of the 2 electrical connections to the thermostat housing. That cost me $110, but, hey, they also washed my car.
It took me about 3 hours to change out the thermostat housing. No super special tools required. I have the Bentley manual, but the pictures are poor quality and the step-by-step instructions are poor. It is really only good for a general idea of what to do.
Step 1: Car on ramps. DISCONNECT BATTERY. Drain coolant. I disconnected the main hose that traverses the bottom of the radiator and drained into a bucket.
Step 2: Remove air filter box and associated duct work (you'll need star bit sockets or star bit screw driver). The duct connection at the grill is a little tricky and took a few minutes to figure out. Disconnect electricals along the way. I thought they should be color coded, but it seems they are matched so you can't put them back together incorrectly. But you can fail to reconnect them.
It took me about 3 hours to change out the thermostat housing. No super special tools required. I have the Bentley manual, but the pictures are poor quality and the step-by-step instructions are poor. It is really only good for a general idea of what to do.
Step 1: Car on ramps. DISCONNECT BATTERY. Drain coolant. I disconnected the main hose that traverses the bottom of the radiator and drained into a bucket.
Step 2: Remove air filter box and associated duct work (you'll need star bit sockets or star bit screw driver). The duct connection at the grill is a little tricky and took a few minutes to figure out. Disconnect electricals along the way. I thought they should be color coded, but it seems they are matched so you can't put them back together incorrectly. But you can fail to reconnect them.
#11
#13
Well I replaced the temperature sensor and drover 100+ miles and I still have an engine light with P0599 and P0597 engine error codes. Stopped by auto zone and had them check the codes, but their device was saying that the code referred to cruise control problems, which is totally different than what they said last time, which was temperature sensor issue. This is very frustrating.
I could spend $100 in a new thermostat or $135 plus taking it to my mini dealer. Argh!
I could spend $100 in a new thermostat or $135 plus taking it to my mini dealer. Argh!
#14
* MINI DTC P0597 (0x2390) - Program Map Thermostat, Control-Activation: Open Circuit
* MINI DTC P0599 (0x2EE2) - Thermostat Heater Control Circuit High
* MINI DTC P0599 (0x348E) - Program Map Thermostat, Control-Activation: Short Circuit to Positive
Looks like a replacement thermostat is your next course of action.
- Erik
#16
I know this is an old post but thanks for the info. I just replaced my crossover pipe and thermostat housing and I had the same code. Bought the bluedriver obd2 scanner. I had to undo the left front star screw for the air filter housing, disconnect the hose from the turbo and pcv hose. I looked where the lower connector mates to the thermostat and it wasn’t seated. CEL is now off. Thanks again.
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