If users have CAN tool that BMS sells, just "erase all codes". Isn't complicated...

 

CORRECTION ...CAN tool that BMS sold... unfortunately they no longer sell it.

 

AHHH...that's right. Well those that have it are sitting on gold now! lol

 

Not sure if I was the only one not tracking this, but not only does the CAN Tool delete unwanted CEL from not having the stock DP, but you can also set it to Auto clear codes from the DP and or Tuner, which would prevent the CEL to come on. However, it will still allow other non related codes to trigger the light so that you can monitor your vitals.

I only just figured this out, being I threw my first DP related code today.

The CAN tool truly is gold in my book. Does more, and is cheaper than the Akrovick Delete R.

 

ok i tried to read through this thread but obviously it is rather long. I have a 2011 mcs with DOS intake and magnaflow muffler.. if i get this i should just leave it on the stock setting and ill be fine. always try to use 91 or 92 gas

 

Yes...and no. I'd been running my JB on the stock setting since I got it, but it's been getting hotter lately so I turned it down a setting and the car seems way happier (keep in mind in CA 91 is the highest grade we have).

 

interesting ok.. i live in hawaii so I guess i can play around with it.

 

No need to fiddle with it. Leave it @ the default 50% (12 o'clock) and enjoy.

 

good call! awesom I dont know how i didnt see this earlier! have been waiting for a tune since i bought the car!

 

This is why I won't get a tune until I have meth injection, there's something about having intake temperature 30+ below ambient temperatures!

 

You're telling me. I was THIS close to getting the deal Howerton Eng. had going for the Meth kits, and what happens? My dog apparently needs 4-600 dollars of dental work . Life....

 

Yes Meth Kits curb that extra heat from upping your boost and anti-detonation protection, in other words you won't kill you engine. There's a few members that have killed their engine from one simple detonation!

 

Or because of a bad tune, aka, ETG, aka, Gab's car lol.

 

So I have been running the JB+ with awesome results for about 3 months now. I am starting to kick around the idea of installing a meth kit, but I am already running a 97 octane mix of fuel. I have intake, intercooler, downpipe, and second cat delete, and im running the JB+ at 100%. Im just not sure if the meth kit is really necessary if im already running 97 octane fuel. Since I would not really be dependant on the methanol for an octane boost then the only benefit I can see is the drop in intake temps. Any thoughts on if its worth the money when already running high octane fuel? Any ideas on if I would see much HP increase above what im running now? I know everyone recommends the aquamist kits, but has anyone ran snow performance or any others?

 

A water/methanol injection will also lower the in-cylinder temperatures. I feel (maybe falsely) that it also increases the over health of the engine.

 

I am also on the fence with this, except I don't have an intercooler and only have access to 93 octane plus iffy additives... I hear lots saying the meth kit will improve health, performance, and allow to increase the JB+ for added power. I would just like to know what kit works best as far as price, installation for a Hardtop, and performance...

Thanks...

 

I cringed whenever I would step on it with the JB+ @ 100 lol

 

Hopefully I will get my Aquamist system up and running this weekend so I can see what 100% feels like. Not at first of course.

 

just installed my JB+ this morning... i feel the power but letting it adjust before i hammer it.. kind of hard to find an open stretch in hawaii anyways haha

 

Ok. Love this thing. But let me ask one question. I'm not toooo knowledgable about turbos and boost. Just the basics I guess. My question is how accurate is using the scangauge II as a boost reader? Today when accelerating on the highway I was in 4th gear and just put my foot down. I glanced at the scangauge and it went to 16 then 21!! Wth? Before it was pretty consistent at topping out at 16.somethings. Could this be true could it be bad? Confused here. I have a 2011 with a defender of speed intake and resonator delete with higher flow muffler and always run 92 octane in Hawaii with mild temps today.

 

If your at default 50% I think the max is 18-19 .

 

Did it stay at 21psi or drop right away? In my experience boost will spike under high load low rpm then settle down to something reasonable.

 

I've had that happen, abrupt change in load.

My car stock will spike to 15/16 psi.

 

Spikes are OK. If it's staying stuck over 20psi then I'd lower the dial as needed to keep it around 16-18psi sustained. Note warmer weather will result in higher overall boost levels as the air is less dense so more of it is needed to make up pumping losses.

 

ok no it didnt stick but then again i had to let off the gas... i havent seen it since and usually it goes to around 16-18 like it should.. just making sure i wasnt going to blow! haha thanks guys!