Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R56) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Burger Motorsports (BMS) Tune(s)

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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 08:33 PM
  #2001  
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Originally Posted by JPR18
I tried searching through this enormous thread...but no luck. My 2012 Cooper S (stock) has had the jb+ for about 2 months...and I've had some little issues. 1) randomly the half-engine light came on and the car went into limp mode. Unplugged it, ran the car stock, and plugged it back in. The car felt faster than it did right before the CEL, like it did after the adaptation period. 2) a few weeks after plugging it back in, and not touching it, the car basically reverted back to stock. It was very strange. Today I was racing so I had to remove the jb....I ran all day without it, and after plugging it back in, the difference was extraordinary. After a few miles on the highway the car accelerated significantly faster, much faster than earlier this week when it was plugged in. So my question is, is it possible for the car to revert back to stock-like performance? Should I just keep unplugging it and plugging it back in every now and then?

Your setting on the JB is too high.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 08:55 PM
  #2002  
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How challenging is the install? How & where does this install in/on the Mini engine? Is the install better left for the pros to do? (Sorry, meant to post over in the Aquamist thread.)
 
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 09:58 PM
  #2003  
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Originally Posted by Coop-a-Loop
How challenging is the install? How & where does this install in/on the Mini engine? Is the install better left for the pros to do? (Sorry, meant to post over in the Aquamist thread.)
Takes 20 seconds under the hood. Too easy to and simple. If you don't have it, your missing out

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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 09:56 AM
  #2004  
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Originally Posted by MarioKart
Takes 20 seconds under the hood. Too easy to and simple. If you don't have it, your missing out Sent from my iPhone Office
I think he was asking how hard it is to install the Aquamist kit.
I did mine in about 6 hours at my apartment complex. It was pretty straight forward, just time consuming. You do have to tap into the ECU, so if you're not comfortable with that then get it professionally done. But otherwise take your time and double check to make sure you have the correct color wires hooked up (brown and orange look really similar).
Sorry for going off topic.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 10:11 AM
  #2005  
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Originally Posted by Phipu91
I think he was asking how hard it is to install the Aquamist kit.
I did mine in about 6 hours at my apartment complex. It was pretty straight forward, just time consuming. You do have to tap into the ECU, so if you're not comfortable with that then get it professionally done. But otherwise take your time and double check to make sure you have the correct color wires hooked up (brown and orange look really similar).
Sorry for going off topic.
+1 6-8hrs on avg. First time I did it, it took a day and a half.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 10:39 AM
  #2006  
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Originally Posted by ra2fanatic
+1 6-8hrs on avg. First time I did it, it took a day and a half.
Possibly even longer in 90 degree weather in a garage! Lol
 
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 11:17 AM
  #2007  
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Originally Posted by NewCooperFanatic
Possibly even longer in 90 degree weather in a garage! Lol
Depends on the beers to naps ratio.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 02:24 PM
  #2008  
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From: terry@burgertuning.com
Originally Posted by JPR18
So my question is, is it possible for the car to revert back to stock-like performance? Should I just keep unplugging it and plugging it back in every now and then?
The first and best sign that something is wrong is that you have a check engine light. Read it. And then fix whatever it indicates is wrong. If you need any advice on how to do that you can always email the code in to our technical support.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 02:55 PM
  #2009  
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Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
The first and best sign that something is wrong is that you have a check engine light. Read it. And then fix whatever it indicates is wrong. If you need any advice on how to do that you can always email the code in to our technical support.
The check engine light went off by itself about a month ago, after I unplugged and then plugged back in. Since then the performance seems to taper until it's back to stock-like performance (no CEL), until I unplug again.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2014 | 08:17 AM
  #2010  
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From: terry@burgertuning.com
Originally Posted by JPR18
The check engine light went off by itself about a month ago, after I unplugged and then plugged back in. Since then the performance seems to taper until it's back to stock-like performance (no CEL), until I unplug again.
The DME is highly adaptive and will reduce power on its own (stock or tuned) under certain conditions. If you want to get to the bottom of it I'd grab some sort of an OBDII logging utlity and monitor boost, timing, and AFR during times when its running well and during those times when it's running slower. That data should help you narrow it down. Too bad on the CEL not coming back as that would be the quickest method. If you want to send the JB+ in we can always swap it out here for you just to eliminate the unlikely JB+ hardware issue.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2014 | 10:32 AM
  #2011  
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Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
The DME is highly adaptive and will reduce power on its own (stock or tuned) under certain conditions. If you want to get to the bottom of it I'd grab some sort of an OBDII logging utlity and monitor boost, timing, and AFR during times when its running well and during those times when it's running slower. That data should help you narrow it down. Too bad on the CEL not coming back as that would be the quickest method. If you want to send the JB+ in we can always swap it out here for you just to eliminate the unlikely JB+ hardware issue.
Thanks My OBDII logger should be here today
 
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 03:37 PM
  #2012  
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Lookie what I just got???

Let the fun begin!

 
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 04:04 PM
  #2013  
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So just an update.....

been running TORCO for a bit.....i think ive gone through around (7) 32oz bottles so far.

i noticed my car running a tad sluggish recently, and decided to give my plugs a check....these are my plugs at 30K miles




apparently the buildup is common when running torco, and nothing im terribly alarmed about.

just to be clear, ive noticed no severely detrimental effects, just some slight sluggishness in my case....but if you do decide to run TORCO, you are going to have to replace your plugs more often.

as it stands now, my car is running well with my JB+ at 90%....and i have no plans to stop running TORCO in my car.....just wanted to give yall a heads up.
 

Last edited by Mcameron; Apr 10, 2014 at 05:12 PM.
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 04:56 PM
  #2014  
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Originally Posted by Mcameron
So just an update.....

been running TORCO for a bit.....i think ive gone through around 7 32oz bottles so far.

i noticed my car running a tad sluggish recently, and decided to give my plugs a check....these are my plugs at 30K miles

apparently the buildup is common when running torco, and nothing im terribly alarmed about.

just to be clear, ive noticed no severely detrimental effects, just some slight sluggishness in my case....but if you do decide to run TORCO, you are going to have to replace your plugs more often.

as it stands now, my car is running well with my JB+ at 90%....and i have no plans to stop running TORCO in my car.....just wanted to give yall a heads up.
Good info. I do not use it, but I like to see positive, constructive, and informative posts (is that enough -tive's?).
 
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 05:45 PM
  #2015  
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Yeah after I ran two 32oz cans of Torco I removed my o2 sensor and it was orange. They say it's harmless.

BTW, I have a 32oz unopened can that I no longer need if anyone in Raleigh wants it let me know.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 06:05 PM
  #2016  
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Originally Posted by cerenkov
Yeah after I ran two 32oz cans of Torco I removed my o2 sensor and it was orange. They say it's harmless.

BTW, I have a 32oz unopened can that I no longer need if anyone in Raleigh wants it let me know.
How much is Torco running for in NC?
 
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 06:25 PM
  #2017  
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From: Raleigh, NC
Originally Posted by Roxspin72
How much is Torco running for in NC?
I bought it directly from the company via their Amazon storefront for like $22 or so shipped. But I'm offering it for free if you're in the area.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 06:40 PM
  #2018  
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Originally Posted by cerenkov
I bought it directly from the company via their Amazon storefront for like $22 or so shipped. But I'm offering it for free if you're in the area.
Sorry for the high jack, I'm about to go TDY, wish I had time. I'm a give Torco a try when I return. Thanks for the price info though...
 
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 07:10 PM
  #2019  
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i am a bit confused which one do i need?
http://www.torcousa.com/products-auto-pro.html
 
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 08:10 PM
  #2020  
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 09:02 PM
  #2021  
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Your plugs appear to be fouled by the detergents in the octane booster, this can lead to false KR which will result in the ECM pulling timing which is why you feel sluggish...
 
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 09:13 PM
  #2022  
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Btw u don't need octane booster for a stock timing curve with increased boost, if u are worried through in a step colder plugs to stay off KR and stick to pump gas only
 
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Old Apr 11, 2014 | 03:09 PM
  #2023  
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Originally Posted by Azminispeedin
Btw u don't need octane booster for a stock timing curve with increased boost, if u are worried through in a step colder plugs to stay off KR and stick to pump gas only
Can you explain this a little more, or point me in the direction where I can read up on it.

Also, for those of us using the JB+, are we really using stock mappings? What I mean is, since the JB+ is essentially lying to the DME (that's how I understand it), the DME is then in turn using the incorrect parts of the maps. I know this is oversimplified and maybe I'm completely wrong in my thinking.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2014 | 03:24 PM
  #2024  
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Has anyone experienced any weird boost cuts? These past two weeks I've been driving my car I've experienced boost cut happening at weird times. I'll be on the HWY driving about 70mph and try to hit the pedal about half way and the car would start to fly for a second till I lose boost completely for 2 seconds. It's weird I've never had this happen in my turbo cars. I'm just confused because I have no codes and the car will run fine. I've even filled up my tank with 93 only. Mind you I am at the 1 position on the JB, but it hasn't happened in the previous 10k+ miles...Also I checked for any boost leaks but found nothing. Any ideas?
 
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Old Apr 11, 2014 | 03:38 PM
  #2025  
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the only thing i've noticed about the JB+ is in 4th gear it really, really, wants to GO
 
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