Can someone explain to me what Octane I'm getting if I am running 93 octane w/10% Ethanol hear in NC?

Also, anyone know where to purchase E85 near Fort Bragg?

Thanks...

 

Your octane will be slightly higher if it contains 10% ethanol. The problem is that it MAY contain up to 10% you really don't know.

 

So, Today after monitoring CAN Tool I noticed my advance was about +5.

Now Im reading this in the understanding that the CAN tool on Fuel Gauge only adds a Red candy corn per points advanced. So if I saw 5 Candy corns I was advanced plus five for timing at WOT 4th gear.

Yes or no?

 

Yes.
The advance of timing in cylinder 1 was showing 5 degrees (this can be taken as indicative of all cylinders). However, it is not the quantitative reading that's important, per se. What is critical is that the "candy corns" are *increasing* under WOT in the higher RPM. What that means is you don't want to see the "candy corns" get up to: 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 (for example) and then drop 3 or more to: 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, respectively. See what I'm saying? It's not so much the number of "candy corns," it's that they are *increasing* and not consistently seeing a retard of 3 or more during the climb, as the RPM rise during a WOT run.
Hopefully the explanation helps. I am guessing that the "candy corns" were increasing and got to 5 as you ran out of gear, if that's the case, you would seem to be fine. That's routinely what I'm seeing, btw.
Keep watching it too, as the temps go up as we get into spring & summer, to be safe.

 

Also, the *occasional* 'hiccup' in the growth of lit "candy corns" (an indication timing is being pulled/retarded) is 'OK,' it's a consistent 3 or more drop that's bad.

 

That example made perfect sense.. Yeah I see it climb once the high jack kicks in. And it usually stays at +5 sometimes 6.

One last ? Should I be checking in every gear, or is it safe to say if all looks good in 4th at WOT, that the tune and fuel mixture are working? Right now I'm running 93/10%Ethanol, plus a bottle of NOS octane booster that has MMT which adds 31 point contributing to a mixture of roughly 96 or so octane.

 

How many of you run this with new car etc under warranty. Any worries ?

 

I would 80% still have factory warranty

Sent from my iPhone Office

 

Since this is only for the N18 motor, a large portion of us still have the factory warranty. Just get on with it and buy it.

 

You can remove it in seconds and it's undetectable once it's off. What's there to worry about.

 

Get on with it. Haha. The car is a week old. I'll get there. Im sure you guys waited at least a few weeks come on.

 

lol. Mariokart had it on within hours, I would have too but it was still in testing, but I did put it on around 1200 miles.

 

Cool. I'm ordering tonight

 

So I ran into cel two days ago and the car threw a P0087 code. Fuel pressure low. I was at 40 miles so I just topped the tank with 93 only and moved a notch back to 1 since I was at 2 and using E85/93 octane. Since last night the light went away and no other issues.

Anyone run into this issue?

 

I haven't but I am also interested in what to look for when the ECU is pulling timing? I cannot believe that the NAM or OBD II scanners are the only way to tell that the tune is detrimental. Can you hear and or feel a difference when the timing is pulled. Or if happening too much, dose the ECU throw a code?

 

I had a similar code when my hpfp started going. it wasn't related to the JB+, at least I don't think so. dealer replaced my hpfp and I've been fine since. minis seem to have hpfp issues, even the n18s.

 

If you leave the JB+ at the default 12 noon setting and use 92+ octane gas you won't have to worry about it.

It's when you deviate from the recommended setting should you watch timing, since you probably care about your piston health.

Regarding hearing or feeling timing being pulled, you don't want to ever hear detonation on boost because that's probably immediately followed by a distinct lack of piston integrity. You might get a code if you're lucky before things explode but that's like waiting for the oil light to come on telling you you're out of oil and your motor is now seized.

Are you changing the JB+ from default setting?

 

I am running 93 Octane w/10% Ethanol and 16oz bottle of NOS Octane Boost w/MMT. Equivalent to approximately 96-97 Octane ... have the JB+ at 70% & No sign of timing pulled minus minor hiccups...

 

I just ordered one, I can't wait....

 

BTW, did I mention my MINI pulls like a Beast. JB+ at 70% rocks... Can't wait to add Catless DP...

 

I had it at 80% with 32oz can of Torco. The car was great but then I got nervous so I dialed it back down to 50% and patiently waiting for flash tuning to become available.

 

So are you saying Flash Tuning is the only way to go? Not a challenge question, just looking for solutions

 

I think it is the best way to go.

Maybe someone else more knowledgeable on the subject can chime in on the pros and cons.

I'm not knocking the JB+, I have it and like it but hopefully it is just a stop gap measure.

 

Terry???

 

Sounds good, it all depends on your personal preference. From what I gather the JB+ just moves you up the stock boost curve with corresponding timing and A/F ratios (and associated german engineering knowledge) hence the need to increase octane to avoid detonation. Limiting factors are injector duty cycle and cylinder pressure. All this is done without the DME knowing what is happening so it is up to you to make sure you are within a reasonable safety margin, since the JB+ does not adapt--you are hard coding an effect level (pray for the JB4 to come sooner than later). The DME pushes as much timing as possible, aspiring to achieve MBT, using the (reportedly very good) knock sensor feedback mechanism so even bone stock it is 'banging at the detonation threshold' at all times. Each cylinder is monitored individually, the CAN tool reports timing advance for cylinder 1 which you have to assume is similar to the other 3. So it goes back to your personal risk threshold where you want to run at. I'm inclined to agree with Terry's advice to stay at around 18psi max boost (for an S motor) for decent predicted reliability.