Nope. Unplug it, service it, plug it back in.

 

As a function the CAN tool 'auto' deletes 'soft' CEL; ones that come from a 'tune' or some mods. 'Hard' CEL are still lit, so that damage is averted. At least that's how I understand it.

 

Makes sense...
Thanks

 

When running to tune do we need to use sport mode does it still work the same way

 

Sport mode remains unaffected, it works the same way.

 

No issue.

 

So after reading through all 70 pages of this thread, I haven't seen my exact question answered. I run 92 octane/no ethanol fuel. I am assuming that I can leave the JB+ at the stock 12 o'clock position but I just want to make sure.

I'm ready to get my JB+ and enjoy the fun!

 

Yep should be fine. I run 91(max of 10% ethanol mix i believe) here in the southwest and have had no issues leaving it at the 12 o clock settings.

 

Second that, with stock JB+ setting and 92 you should be fine, like that old infomercial: set it and forget it. Though you won't forget it anytime the go-pedal's pressed.
For peace of mind and useful monitoring, of and beyond the JB+ action, get the CANtool, it's cool (gauge hi-jacking) and very useful (gauge hi-jacking, code reading, code deleting).

I am having great success with an approximate 30/70 of e85/91, I turned the JB+ to 70% and set my fuel gauge (via the CAN) to read timing under boost, so now I have an everday, realtime check - it's just been dandy! All WOT runs have timing advance as the RPM increase.

Temps have been rather cool here in KS, so I will continue to keep an eye on it as we roll into a tardy spring, and dial the JB+ back, if need be (boy, I bet that's easier said than done, lol).

 

Sorry for repeating what the last 70 pages have already said

Only having it for a week -

The JB+ is awesome! Thank you Terry, and all at Burger Tuning!

This last week here in NY has been real cold - some real quick runs (G-tac Pro app)

Yesterday was the first warm day in a long time. Boost numbers were higher than last week in the colder temps.

This JB+ just begs for additional mods, installed a boost tube - and ordered a larger FMIC.

For those of you running water/meth injection. Are you activating off boost only? If you are running your JB+ higher than factory setting(with pump gas ), what safety is there in the water/meth kit if you run out of water/meth?

I have read here, that boost activation is not good on the mini, because boost fluctuates too much? Why is that a bad thing? Aren't these meth kit controllers variable? If I set a start point at 6 psi and high point at say 18 psi, wouldn't that be sufficient?

 

Aquamist is the cream of the crop.

Runs off both boost and IDC. Which is what a DI motor would need/want.

I wouldn't run the JB+ at 100 even with meth.

I've seen 22 psi. I don't want to see that again.

If you run out and your boosting high, you're motor is literally toast, unless you have the fail safe to hook up.

 

Does a normal hand scanner with can 2 etc that has ability to erase codes etc. work with erasing code if any form this tune.

 

can someone help, how do i use the cantool with a macbook pro?

 

I'm sure Parallels, Fusion or Bootcamp would work!

 

Well I jumped in the deep end of the pool and ordered my JB+. Now for the wait until it get here in a few days.

 

Have a question for everyone ... have a new 2013 jcw auto and running jb+ at 2 mark with shell 93 and 16oz of torco and saw timing drop from *teens to +3-4 on wot in 4th gear going 60mph... I was running 93 at 12 position without torco and timing didn't drop like this ... Am I understanding this right?? Using dash command and got 0-60 of 5.9 with wheel spin with crap run flats.. New to mini community .. Thanks

 

A little more background info...I've read all 100+ pages on this and after trying to watch data log of timing on dash command I saw on wot the timing go to +3-5 and stay steady with maybe drop of one at times. Should I dial back jb+ or is this ok?.... I have k&n drop in filter, WMW diverter valve installed on otherwise stock 2013 jcw auto and saw boost go to 22-23 psi.... I have driven maybe 30 miles since increasing jb+ from 12 to 2 with half bottle of torco and 93 octane...

 

That boost seems too high even for a JCW. I'm at 100% and have higher CR and see 21psi

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I would say it's suspect, but I don't have a lot of expirience. But it's your car, you have to make the call. If you chose to mess with the dial than you have to monitor and make the call.
Today finally got into 20celsius and a WOT in 6th didn't have the timing advance I'd been seeing in cooler temps (I had it dialed to 70%) so I laid off the boost for the rest of the drive, came home and put the MCCSA4 to sleep & readjusted the JB+ back to 50%. Will monitor again and if need be dial it back to 40%, prudence...

 

Cool, let the good times roll.

 

Yea I read that with your gp mariokart you hit 21 psi...wondering why my boost is so high? I had a ripped diaphragm on stock bov at 12 position and just installed wmw and now it really pulls but boost is so high now...I have a forge diverter I haven't installed since it came with blue spring and wonder if the bov is causing this? The sound of the wmw is different too and at times sounds like a very short flutter like surge sound

 

5.72 is nice & quick 0-60......what size tires are you running?

 

I'm running the stock run flats on 17" challenge wheels ..205/45/17. Looking at getting some Bfgoodrich g force comp 2 or Michelin PSS now for traction. The bfgoodrich are half the cost at tire rack now...

 

What mods do you have. The intake, dP, no send on cat and IC make PSI drop and tiny bit.

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Just k&n drop in, WMW bov, sprint booster and jb+. I may dial back to 60% setting and add more torco once gas tank is more empty.