Why couldn't this be done with a data logger? I have the Palmer Performance software so that I can log.

 

Just FYI to those who want to change their exhaust. I got my magnaflow muffler for sale in the marketplace. All the information is there on the muffler.

 

I'm not in a rush yet and wanted to know if the product going to change at all? Would rather wait and buy the final product.

 

Do you have an S or JCW/GP2? If you have an S then beta testing is finished and no further software changes were made.

 

If I change my muffler can I crank the pot to max? Sorry had to do it.

 

I definitely would have to think that person is literally stupid then

 

SG2 or CAN Tool?

Pros & Cons from anyone using one over the other?

Thanks for you help guys

 

IMO go with the can tool cause it can delete the cel from the DP. But if your not using a DP then use the sg2. I'm using my sg2 cause I'm not putting a DP on anytime soon. I have my intake temps, water temps, oil temps, and air/fuel ratio showing.

 

Thanks.. Are you monitoring the timing degrees?

 

OK now that I have settled down a bit from the extra excitement provided by the JB+ ; I have been able to spend a couple days driving toward an emphasis on fuel economy. During my last two days' commutes (about 50/50 highway and suburban driving) and 160 miles total I am averaging 38 mpg. Here in Chicago it has not topped 50 degrees in the afternoon and in the a.m. it's has been about 28 degrees. The best fuel economy I have ever managed (in about 70 degree temps) has been 40 mpg.

It appears to me that the JB+ does not negatively effect fuel economy if you drive conservatively. My previous post about a 10-15% loss in fuel economy was apparently due to my over exuberent right foot.

 

I dont know how you're getting 38mpg. I can barely get 20mpg with my lead foot.

 

On the same boat :(

 

R u kidding? Even when I push it pretty hard I end up with no less than 33 mpg. I must not be driving on the track everyday like you guys. Really though if you want to hit the upper thirties up-shift at/about 2K rpm. I also avoid having the turbo spool up under this light acceleration. It's still quick enough to stay with traffic and not **** anyone off. When I'm cruising suburban roads during my commute I'm typically in 6th gear once I'm above 35mph. I actually get in the mid forties mpg in suburban driving and only about 35-36 mpg on the hwy at 70mph with cruise set.

That being said it is awesome to have the ability to do some sub 6sec 0-60 runs now though if someone wants to challenge. But this is nothing compared to how it performs at high speeds. I really need to get on the track.

 

The CAN tool only does boost, timing, and AFR. IAT and throttle are not mapped yet. No ETA AFAIK.

SG2 has more gauges but you gotta mount the thing somewhere you can see it while not taking your eyes off the road.

CAN tool displays on the big speedo/fuel gauge which isn't really in your direct view but not too far off to glance over and see what it's reading.

CAN tool deletes the catless DP codes, as stated earlier, if that is in your future. Both read and clear codes that throw a check engine light although the SG2 is probably a lot easier to read codes out that the CT, never tried.

 

Terry and GP jb+ ppl,

I just ordered an jb+ for my GP2, if something changes since its in beta did i read somewhere you would ship out the chip as an update?

 

No software changes since second round of beta testing on the S motor.

Although I guess the JCW/GP2 folk are starting their own self testing. Just be sure to turn it down from default (12 'oclock) before putting it on your car Maybe 10'oclock to start if you're not running E85 and/or meth/water injection.

 

so i did some pulls the other day monitoring boost on my torque app.

i was only getting a max of 14 PSI. JB+ is on the stock(as shipped) setting.

temps were ~55-60F and i was doing 3rd-6th and pulling to ~5-55K. and im running 93 octane with a DDM street intake.

does that seem about right? people here are reporting 16-17PSI.....14 seems low to me.

 

I see 13.9 psi stock with ddmworks ris in my 2010 MCS. You should be higher. On a side note...I'm watching this thread waiting for the n14 version :-)

Did you do the pulls fully warmed up? The ecu will pull max boost by 3 psi if not fully warmed up in my experience.

 

yeah, i should have been fully warmed up.....i did those pulls on the highway, and it takes me a good 15-20 mins to get to said highway.

i ususally assume im fully warmed up when my exhaust starts popping and burbling....

 

You might add a coolant temp window to torque as a double check. I was surprised its takes me almost 15 mins to get to 219-221 where it sits steady. That is with combined city/highway driving.

 

i do have a coolant window, it was sitting right around 190F if i recall correctly.....thats where it usually sits when im in sport mode.

 

It could be the aftermarket intake causing the lower psi. I would wait for others to chime in but I recall seeing some stuff a ways back in the thread saying that their aftermarket intakes caused a lower psi with the jb+ compared to the stock intake.

 

Ok I'm sure the can tool will become second nature but I wish there was a better manual , not just a short video and list of codes.

Ok I understand the basics but have some questions.

I guess holding the button for 2 secs gets you into command mode.

The toggling goes through options and if you hold on an option you can then change or set by holding again.

Ok, now option 5 , mini dash or dash 2 ? No idea what dash I have.

 

Sounds normal for 55 degree weather to me.

 

Yep I agree with expert. Cooler , denser air does need as much boost. I do wonder what the max boost would be say at 6K feet above sea level on a 90f degree day ?