I've not tested it under those conditions. I would speculate around 19psi peak but much less boost at higher RPM. The DME typically raises boost to make up for pumping losses at higher elevation but at the same time shifts the power curve down to keep turbo speeds reasonable.

 

Always going to achieve its load targets, adjusting boost, timing and fuel if needed.

 

thanks for the help, i mean, the car feels fantastic, and i have no doubt its putting down the +20 HP, im just trying to wrap my head around the numbers.....

so if i understand correctly, the lower boost numbers are a result of the ECU limiting the boost to reach a target power level?

so on a warmer day, i can expect to see higher boost numbers as a result of the ECU trying to compensate for less optimal conditions?

 

Exactly

 

The DME targets load not boost. But, all the gauges we use read in boost as its an easier concept to get our heads around. Basically boost will change based on air density.

 

I don't mean to be an interloper (I have the n14 - got one coming out Terry? ) but can you define load? The engine will see a load based upon torque requested at a given rpm but how does that translate to a target output and how does the DME measure whether it is meeting that target? I believe you that it adjusts for a set output but if you have changed what that output should be via the tune, what else could we measure concurrently to check overall function of the tune? Timing? Airflow? 0-60 times? My curiosity is peaked as I see 13.9 psi stock in a variety of conditions. Oh and if you need a tester for the n14, I could probably help out

Just trying to understand the Germans that designed a British car.

 

The amount of information you'd need to truly understand the DME's internal operation is beyond what I have time or motivation to provide (sorry) but the DME is mapped on load (and torque) and translates that to boost as its final step in determine a boost set point at any given time.

To get a better understanding of how the DME works you may want to subscribe to threads where flash tuners are discussing internal table mapping. Cobb has some good documents as well on the N54 you could review.

 

From what I have interwebbed, load is a function of airflow. The engine is just a glorified air pump. It needs to pump more air to accelerate/haul heavy things. All the sensors/feedback mechanisms are used to determine and meet load targets. Of course, there's only so much it can compensate for so eventually you run out of power.

0-60 times are a pretty good indicator of the car producing more power than before. If the computer is pulling timing then 0-60 times will suffer. Just looking at boost is misleading as that is only one variable to making power. Fuel and timing seem to be big players as well.

I'm sure Terry and others can explain this way better than me, but asking when the N14 version is coming out probably won't do you any favors

Edit: Dang Terry is fast nowadays

 

everyone should just monitor fueling and timing, the boost can fluctuate from day to day. you don't want to be leaner than normal....ever....unless you're on e85 or some ****. in the spool range it should be near stoic of 14.7-15 or so (BMW lean spool idea) tapering to ~12 in high rpms. if you're not down near 12 then something is awry. if you have an aftermarket intake and you can't reach fueling, try putting the stock one back on.

 

Turn it down even if i ran 93oct? I like to run e85 which i have down the road so it could be done but i dont know if i need to upgrade the pump/injector and how much e85 to put in. I am coming from an Evo X which i have done turbo and all the bolt-ons to support that so Mini modding is new to me. I did have an 07 335i with a JB3 back in the day tho.

 

I did a 0-60 late last night and it is definitely faster. I got 6.6 sec and that is with traction control rearing its ugly head in first and second gear with an automatic tranny.

I probably could have gotten a few tenths faster.

Pre-JB+ was right at 7.0 seconds. Using the same measuring setup.

 

I have been waiting on someone to post this kind of info. I am getting similar times running DashCommand timing app. I'll post a pic when I can figure out how to do it. Any one running DashCommand know how to properly calibrate PID's for the Mini?

 

Which PIDs are you looking for?

 

On pump fuel AFR won't be an issue but when mixing in E85 then you can max out the fuel trims and start to run lean. Although, with E85 in the mix running leaner is not necessarily a bad thing as far as EGTs go. I agree on keeping an eye on AFR when mixing E85 though.

 

Ok, maybe 11'oclock, it's your motor. People running 92 octane on the S motor, myself included, are running at high noon (default) and Terry recommends we stay there. I'd play it safe at first then watch timing as Terry detailed earlier to see if you can go higher.

E85 Terry recommends 20-30% maximum on stock fuel system.

 

Exactly. To run a higher level will require some addl hardware. It's something we'll be working on in the coming months.

 

Thanks, never mind, I figured it out.

 

Terry -

I still have my Can Tool for my old 2011 N55 135i.

Will this work on my 2012 Countryman S?

 

2 thumbs up! I wish every performance upgrade gave you atleast the gains this gadget gave me. For the price it is a must have.

 

It probably does if you push the latest update.

 

Been reading post about adjusting the Pod. Set it to 6 this past weekend. Felt instant power increase, steady vitals. Took it easy for a while only peeking at about 14psi @ 50 deg weather. Well today was a holy **** of a day. Finally hit 16psi @ 78 deg tempts shifting from 3rd to 4th. Damn that is one thrill of a pull and I think it had more power to spare. If my AFR's stay steady do y'all think it's safe to keep it at this level???

BTW, I'm running 93 octane fuel out of NC...

Also, will there be any way to run AFR/Boost/Timing all at once? Seems if I want to track AFR and Timing, I lose my boost hijack...

 

Terry,
I would like to see the option to have the can tool ON time to be adjustable, say for 1 min to 5 mins or such.

 

Sure just update the firmware. The CT hardware has never been changed since release.

 

Question, anybody used the CAN tool on Canadian cars? The center speedo is in kilometers, not miles. Would the guage hi-jack point to the right locations?

 

Originally I let the car go to sleep (~15 min) before installing the JB+. Got used to how the car drove. Low end (off idle to ~1500rpm) was a little boggy, just like stock, when cold so if I had to merge quickly from a stop (parking lot to street, for example) I would use the sport mode to make sure it zipped out of there.

I'm in the process of installing some audio equipment so I unhooked the battery for the first time since installing the JB+ last night. Today I noticed the low end was much smoother. Maybe it's because I'm back in the 50-100 mile adjustment period for the JB+ and/or the engine is relearning how to operate but I can't say I don't like it. Just wondering if anyone else noticed that.