Drivetrain Burger Motorsports (BMS) Tune(s)
2nd Gear
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
Yes (from Wikipedia)
In most countries, including Australia and all of those in Europe[citation needed], the "headline" octane rating shown on the pump is the RON, but in Canada, the United States, Brazil, and some other countries, the headline number is the average of the RON and the MON, called the Anti-Knock Index (AKI, and often written on pumps as (R+M)/2). It may also sometimes be called the Pump Octane Number (PON).
Many thanks to Snaponit for a post with specific data. Researching the forum for information on the actual performance of products touted to increase the performance of your MINI finds comments like: "added to my MINI and it sounds great," "have one on order, can't wait," "feels like it is faster." With many members of this forum running their MINIs on dynos, and a large number having data loggers of different varieties, there should be empirical data to document actual performance gains (or, maybe no gains). If a you have actually measured the difference in performance made by a bolt-on modification, please share it with the membership. Having actual data will help the membership make educated decisions, rather than emotionally throwing money at fancy marketing.
I am guessing there is a script that can be written since the scan gauge 2 pull AFR.
Last edited by wzabrouski; Nov 24, 2013 at 10:08 AM.
Maybe someone else can chime in. I'm not very knowledgeable on this yet.
I was configuring the full scan xl software that I have had for a few years. I was copying your graph and adding some other pids but could not figure out AFR. I had to add an innovate wide band and on my r53 in order to get AFR.
Last edited by wzabrouski; Nov 24, 2013 at 10:34 AM.
If someone wants to come up with a "standard" format they can save and post the graph layout file.
1st Gear
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Quick question, the JB+ comes shipped with the dial at 50% which is good for the stock engine. We can get UP to 20whp out of this which I'm assuming is at 100% on the dial so my question is what will I need to turn this baby all the way up? So far I have a intake, hot side tube and catback exhaust on my cooper S
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 3
Engine RPM
Ignition Timing Advance for #1 Cylinder
Innovate Wide Band O2 Sensor Air/Fuel Ratio
This is what I used to log to do remote tunes but I need to figure out the AFR's without the wideband on the software.
Quick question, the JB+ comes shipped with the dial at 50% which is good for the stock engine. We can get UP to 20whp out of this which I'm assuming is at 100% on the dial so my question is what will I need to turn this baby all the way up? So far I have a intake, hot side tube and catback exhaust on my cooper S
The biggest factor is higher octane gas.
2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 111
Likes: 3
From: Knoxville, TN
10.4 peak boost, I guess it's normal to get lower boost when it's cold outside. It's in the 30's here in TN now and I'm getting ~10psi without the JB+, and 12-13 with it. Just a month ago I was hitting 16psi when it was 80 outside. That's a huge difference.
2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 111
Likes: 3
From: Knoxville, TN
Does this apply to an ECU remap as well or do they override the ECU and allow higher boost in cold conditions. I'm trying to justify a full tune.
5th Gear
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,025
Likes: 2
From: Los Angeles
Again, this ECU is load based.
Dyno tune or piggyback, the ECU will behave the same.
These aren't like other turbo cars where the turbo will be pegged at whatever psi has been programmed and stay there through the entire rev range.
Colder weather is great, less psi needed to make the same HP target. If your car only needs 12psi to make the same power as 16psi during the summer then there's nothing wrong with that.
Dyno tune or piggyback, the ECU will behave the same.
These aren't like other turbo cars where the turbo will be pegged at whatever psi has been programmed and stay there through the entire rev range.
Colder weather is great, less psi needed to make the same HP target. If your car only needs 12psi to make the same power as 16psi during the summer then there's nothing wrong with that.
5th Gear
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,025
Likes: 2
From: Los Angeles
If you are concerned about what your peak boost is, just create a heavy load situation. Short shift to 3rd and go for a wot pull when you're between 2.5-3k. You should see your peak boost. This is a good way to eliminate weather variables.
Again, this ECU is load based.
Dyno tune or piggyback, the ECU will behave the same.
These aren't like other turbo cars where the turbo will be pegged at whatever psi has been programmed and stay there through the entire rev range.
Colder weather is great, less psi needed to make the same HP target. If your car only needs 12psi to make the same power as 16psi during the summer then there's nothing wrong with that.
Dyno tune or piggyback, the ECU will behave the same.
These aren't like other turbo cars where the turbo will be pegged at whatever psi has been programmed and stay there through the entire rev range.
Colder weather is great, less psi needed to make the same HP target. If your car only needs 12psi to make the same power as 16psi during the summer then there's nothing wrong with that.
Thanks
2nd Gear
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
Nothing like the laws of thermodynamics getting in the way of a good turbo boost reading. I think it is about consistent engine output. I think the driveability would be impacted if the turbo did not adjust to temperatures.
