This thread is legacy support for the discontinued CAN tool (CT) from Burger Motorsports.

Basic operating instructions:
1) Turn car to 'on' or start car
2) Press and hold the button on the CT for 2 seconds, the tach display will go solid. This is programming mode.
3) Each press cycles thru the Speedo menus. When at the desired menu, press and hold for 2 seconds. Indicators flash twice.
4) Each press cycles thru the Tach menus. When at the desired feature, press and hold for 2 seconds. Indicators flash twice. Done.
5) To configure another setting go back to step 2.

S: Speedo / T: Tach
S T Function
------Code Read/Delete-------
0 1 Read All Codes (see below)
0 2 Delete All Codes
-------Gauge Hijacking--------
1 0 Disable fuel gauge hijacking
1 1 Boost on fuel
1 2 Timing on fuel
1 4 AFR on fuel
2 0 Disable oil temp gauge hijacking (make sure this is selected)
3 0 Disable Speedo gauge hijacking
3 1 Boost on speedo
3 2 Timing on speedo
3 4 AFR on speedo
------Shift Light RPM---------
4 3-7.5k Shift light as RPM
--------Dash Setup----------
5 6 No NAV/mini connected
5 7 NAV/mini connected
---------ECU Setup----------
6 3 ECU MINI N18 (make sure this is selected)
--Auto Clear DP/Tuner Codes--
7 0 Disable auto delete
7 1 Enable auto delete (Real codes still show a light on dash)
-----Boost Scaling Factor-----
8 0-5 (0.1 increments) Subtract this value from boost (17 psi shows as 12 if set to 5)

Baseline boost readings on my '12 S: max 14psi
Only timing, boost, and AFR are mapped out.
The CT is not able to hijack the JCW gauges.
Ensure you set the oil gauge mode to 0.

Fuel gauge:
-Timing: each bar represents 1 degree of advance, up to 10 degrees.
-Boost: 0 bars represents 10 psi, each additional bar is 1 psi, up to 20 psi.

Speedo:
-Timing: each 10 mph represents 1 degree of advance, up to 16 degrees.
-Boost: each 10 mph represents 1 psi, up to 16 psi.
-AFR: similar manner to above (120 mph = 12:1, 147 mph = stoich 14.7:1, 160 mph = 16:1)

Reading codes:
1) Indicators flash twice: codes have been read
2) Speedo indicates number of codes (0 mph = 0, 150 mph = 15)
3) Indicators flash twice, then speedo will display first code one digit at a time. Each code consists of 4 numbers in hex
4) After 4 numbers displayed, and there are more codes, indicators flash twice, then moves on to next code
5) If there are no more codes, indicators flash 4 times
6) List of codes here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3851005

If you remove the CT, run the car, then reconnect it, settings are saved.

 

Gauges will not longer be hijacked if you pull off the CT at any time. I have my AFR on the speedo and the timing on fuel.

 

When you reattach the CT are the gauge settings you configured there or does it revert to default?

I love the gauge sweep addition too

 

settings are saved


I wish IAT worked...

 

I wish the speedo worked for folks with nav/mini connected.

The depth of the gauge makes the needle move over suuuuper slow when compared to the regular speedo =[.

All I use is the shift indicator, boost on the fuel gauge, and the auto clear of the DP code.

 

Thanks, I've been too lazy to try it myself ;-D

I want IAT too. Hopefully an update will arrive soon.

 

then i'd have to buy the usb cable i have quite a few rs232 to usb cables, wish i knew how bms's were setup. someone should open the serial plastic cover and take a photo of which wires go to which pins so i can make my own.

 

How's about we all chip in and buy one cable and mail it to each other 'sisterhood of the traveling pants' style :D

 

Can someone explain AFR and timing and what values I should keep an eye out for?

I currently have boost on speedo and timing on fuel. Definitely agree that an option to have boost on all the time vs 5psi would be cool.

 

AFR on full throttle should be around 14.7 on spool then tapering to 12 in higher rpms.


timing should increment up when on full throttle, if you see it go up and then back down it means there was detonation and the car is starting to pull timing in that area....this can only really be done on a flat level surface, changes in load resistance will render different timing advances

 

Thanks!

 

Terry @ BMS
Vendor


Quote:
Originally Posted by Fooj GP
Am i blind or did JB remove the CAN tool off the website???

In recently evaluating our inventory for products that are either not-profitable and/or have a high potential for misuse the CAN Tool did not make the cut. It's been discontinued. We will continue to support the logging functions for those who have purchased it though.

On a go forward basis we suggest the Bavarian Technic cable for logging and code management.

http://www.burgertuning.com/scanner.html

 

I contacted Bavarian Technic and they said they could not officially endorse their product working with my 2011 Mini Cooper (justa). FWIW.

 

what are your plans for logging?

 

I'm not sure yet. Bavarian Tech had the best-priced scanner tool on the market but if it's not able to handle the newer Mini Coopers I feel I should look elsewhere. The biggest problem is the price of the AutoEnginuity and Autologic... they are just too much for me to spend. What are we left with?

 

Would a scangauge2 be enough for you?

People have used bluetooth devices with their phones like this:

 

Dang the price is right for that! But will it understand the European codes the Cooper will throw at it and not just the basic emission codes?

 

No idea, sorry.

 

It will understand a lot of the PXXXX codes, but not the specific BMW/MINI ones, it will just report a generic code.

Another inexpensive solution is DashCommand (for iPhone) and ScanXL (laptop)

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...og-graphs.html

or Torque for Android phones.

 

This is an excellent thread that shall live on and on! I hope, lol.
The CAN tool is fantastic, I am soooo glad I got it before it 'disappeared'.
I have the fuel gauge set for timing and the blinkers set for shifting, the blinker(visual & audio) shift light/dong is so useful.
The most valuable feature though has probably been the code override/deletion, no wonder BMW put the heat on to stop selling it, being able to clear BS codes is very helpful, if you know what you're doing (or at least think you do :-)

 

Can someone explain a easier way of deleting the DP code lol? Thanks.

 

The options are not many:

1.) BMS CANtool
2.) Akrapovic Delete-R
3.) A custom tune can permanently disable the CEL (some tuners won't do it)

 

Do explain how you was able to program a shift light/Dong...
I only have my shift light set to 6200rpm. I would love an audio/visual alert😁

 

Check the first post in this thread for setting the shift light. The 'dong' is just the blinker sound.

 

So to delete catless dp codes, I get into the hijack mode, click 7 times, hold 2 seconds click one time then hold 2 seconds?