Your JCW tuning kit will only at probably 5whp if any. I know for a fact they said it adds 8hp. But I would check with those guys, your numbers just seem a little low.

 

My variables are as constant as I can get them and are the only ones that I can somewhat control. They are:

throttle position (WOT), load (to some degree), rpm, air temp, fuel.

I don't believe that anyone advised anyone to monitor timing based solely on rpm and air temp. That was never said nor implied. I'm telling you how I do it and it's based on a lot more than that. But it's important to note that you might not experience knock in the winter but might in the summer, so if you turned up the dial be careful in the hotter weather (especially since boost will also go up).

I believe that it was recommended to keep they dial at 50% and NOT to touch it. Then it was discussed here that if you do turn up the dial to make sure that you have sufficient octane to support it. One way to determine if you have sufficient octane (with the tools and sensors that we have) is to monitor timing during WOT and high RPM (the JB+ has little/no effect during normal leisurely driving). If you don't see timing being retarded then you should be ok.

That being said, tuning a car is a risk just by itself. Then turning the dial up against the tuners recommendations is even more of a risk. People have been warned and are doing this on their own accord. Hopefully they aren't using this thread as their only source of information when your taking about a +$5000 engine repair if things go bad.

 

Missing the point entirely..

 

Hmmm, sorry what am I missing, were you talking about the dyno numbers.

Because trying to get absolute values from a dyno is pointless in my opinion. Doing back to back runs with and without a tune is somewhat useful though.

 

The comment "if you don't see timing being retarded you should be ok". Really? What is advance or retarded? Both you and I hand no idea, we do not have the factory timing tables and you have no way of monitoring load which is one of the biggest variable of the baseline timing. You can not accurately monitor timing without knowing what the factory timing is and the resulting other affects of engine load, throttle position, knock, air temp, and boost. All of these are scaled, so without a datalog you are fishing without a worm.

 

Your right I have no idea what timing value is being called for but if I have the JB+ turned up and running wide open and timing is steady or advancing then I'm pretty sure that the engine is not experiencing knock so I should be ok. If conditions change that the results might also.

We are trying to see if we can turn up the dial on the JB+ which I believe basically calls for higher boost (this is simplified), a side effect of higher boost is knock, so are we experiencing knock? One way to determine if the engine is knocking is to see if timing is being pulled. If I monitor timing and it's steady or advancing then it's not being actively pulled so I'm probably not knocking, I'm probably ok. If I see that timing is being actively retarded then I'm probably not ok. The method is not perfect but it's better than nothing.

I agree with you to a point, but I'm doing the best with the tools that I have with a device that just plugs in.

 

No imperial data....you have zero idea what you think you see and have know way to prove it to anyone other than convincing yourself by saying "you think you have no knock". Trying no to be tough on you but you have a lot of learning to do before you understand what you are talking about. As a group, we all need a way to datalog these cars to monitor under differing conditions.

 

Auto correction= fail

 

Where's Terry?? lol

 

I'm not claiming to be all knowing on this subject. And yes I do have a lot to learn, that why I'm here.

I'm just disagreeing with your initial comment of "...monitoring timing is a waste of time...all these are wild guesses and nothing more." I believe it to have some value if used correctly.

I do use DashCommand to log and graph different parameters (RPM, timing, temp, AFR, boost, load (not sure if the JB+ makes this calculation erroneous). It might not be ideal but it is something.

When it's all said and done doing all this stuff is lots of fun.

 

Anyone want to kindly send me a "graph setting" for ScanXL? My email is eddiepagal@gmail.com
Thanks in advance!

 

Mine looks like this:



Here's a link to my google drive where you can download my graph layout:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9g...it?usp=sharing

 

Man my cooper s only gets 200whp :( but I'm also getting 230 ft - lbs what mods are u running?

 

exactly what i was looking for! Thanks!

 

Since it is not a dynojet the numbers can't be compared with other dynojet numbers like the ones we've posted...

 

The intent with the adjustment dial was not so everyone would go touch it. It was to allow us a mechanism to lower aggressiveness for those running 89-91 octane if needed, and raise it for that running race fuel, if needed. Unfortunately the forum being what it is everyone just assumes they should go and start playing with it.

On timing its a very dynamic measure. The CT is also only showing cylinder 1 timing which can and will vary from cylinder 2, 3, or 4. But the reason we keep an eye on it is not to compare it to some absolute value as such a value can't be predicted by an end user. But to look for signs of over aggressiveness which would be reflected by repeated 3 degree timing dips at higher RPM.

 

Yeahhhh

 

Terry, I changed my dial to 11 from 12. Boost is running at 18, should I turn it down more? Location: Hawaii.

 

can you read two posts above? your answer is right there.

 

The answer is not right there as Terry has recommended that people turn it down from 12 many times. Maybe you need to learn to read things in its entirety.

 

.

 

A lot a factors come into play. The weather, elevations, cooing, fuel, back pressure. All this can be monitored for under $200. My car makes goobs of HP and TQ (for a mini) and it's "vitals" are better than stock.

Sent from my iPhone Office

 

Who is running over 18lbs at 12 besides me on 92?

 

What engine do you have? With 92 octane the recommended setting is 12'oclock for S and 11'oclock for JCW/GP2. Are you monitoring timing under full load WOT?

 

I don't see a problem running 18psi. You also need to look at your timing and afr. I'm running 18-19psi at 70%. Timing is fine during cold temps but have issues when it warms up. I have to turn down the dial to 60% on warmer days. I'm also mixing 30/70 e85/91.