Look for thread titled melted valve cover, should be on the first or second page of threads.

Be sure to leave the OEM heat shield on and
be careful with that product you just purchased!

 

The DME is programmed to compensate for higher pumping loses due to elevation (baro), intake temperatures, and other factors, by raising boost. The JB+ takes advantage of part of this logic. We have not done much high elevation JB+ testing but I expect at 4500' you will still see some benefit with the JB+. At 9,000' I'd expect almost no benefit.

 

Ok so then it seems I'm running right about where it should be for default and it may have just backed off a little bit during the "learning" period.

 

Monitoring boost is a tricky business on load based systems such as the N18. Minor changes in inlet temperature, barometric pressure, EGT (&time under boost), grade, etc, will result in noticeable boost variances. Best to come up with a standard repeatable test, say 3rd gear 2-6k, noting peak boost towards the top of that pull, to at least eliminate the non-weather related variables.

 

Is it even possible to boost 4-5 PSI more by going back to the factory airbox?
That's a lot of boost. Is the OEM airbox THAT much better than $200+ Intakes?
Not trying to attack you. But serious question for me. If its true I'll slap my OEM airbox back on. Lol

 

So just took out the car for a little to the grocery store and I was having fun:-). I seen boost at 16.2 and that's on Shell V-Power 93 octane.

 

It is better cause it's a TRUE CAI. The others are HAI. I don't want to hurt anyone's feelings but I would never buy another "CAI" just for noises. You can slap a K&N panel filter and call it a day. Some of these guys are a but delusional. Maybe DoS might be a "CAI" but I want to see a dyno and someone on here with a JB+ on how boost is working for them.

 

Is everyone getting similar results going back to the OEM Intake?
More PSI I should say than their open intake? It makes sense.
I would just really miss the noise. But the power would be much more rewarding. Does the OEM intake get all the air it needs to run that much boost? It doesnt choke out or anything? Does it have a consistent flow and a good amount of available air?

 

I've not done much intake testing with the N18. Given the size of the turbo I would not expect that much difference going from stock, to a filter on the MAF, to a complicated ducted air system. When time permits it's on my "to test" list.

 

Maybe a dumb question but doesn't hurt to ask.
If I want to take my MINI to the track, say a quarter mile strip or something.
Can I increase the boost on the JB+ and add octane booster to my tank? There is no race fuel in my area and I do not have a meth kit equipped. Just as a temporary source, is octane booster safe to run higher boost to prevent knock? Or is octane booster just stupid? Lol.

 

Hahaha I know you aren't attacking....and I'm asking myself the same thing. That is a big boost difference. Nothing else changed aside from the difference in intakes.

I emailed Terry and he said if MAF calibration is not correct, it can cause issues.

It just strikes me as very odd that something simple as switching intakes caused a big drop. All clamps are nice and tight, possibly turbulent air passing through the MAF? I don't know.

I'll know forsure after I switch back to stock later today and do some pulls!

I was just curious how the car would be with an open intake and meth, since heat isn't an issue any more.

 

Another thing to check are the codes. If a MAF code is stored (from unplugging it while putting in intake), then the DME may ignore the MAF activity and thus ignore the JB+ tuning requests.

 

Thanks for that suggestion, didn't even cross my mind.

I'll let the car sit for a few minutes and plug the JB back in and see if that's what it was.

 

I've still yet to see a dyno on the DoS...butt dynos don't count.

 

I am running the NM on mine, and have seen 18+psi on UG, compared to 15+ without JB. I will likely be putting the stock air box back on this weekend in prep for a dealer service next weekend, so we'll see what happens after that.

 

So you were right as usual, the DME was ignoring the MAF activity lol.

Went out for a drive and totally walked a G35 lol

I actually like the open intake with the extra boost, the car is quicker to rev and feels like a pulls better, especially up top.

But I'm in for service tomorrow, so back to stock lol

 

I'm on my phone right now. People are having problems with NM and VIP CAI with the JB+ ?

 

No, no problems, figured out my issue.

It had nothing to do with the intake

 

Jealous of all of you with the JB+! Can't wait to try one.
Anyway, I have a question since someone brought it up. I have been using the torque app on my phone. The only engine mod I have is a Helix FMIC. I don't know what my readings were before the IC went on. Normal driving I see around 13-15 psi of boost. When I accelerate it will jump up to 18-20. When I really accelerate it jumps to 22-24! Consistently. I have seen it go as high as 26!! It will stay at that level for maybe 3-4 seconds before dropping back to 18-20 then finally back to normal. The car does pull like crazy when this happens! My 19 year old son thinks the car is scary fast, that I need to get it dynoed.
The car has 19k miles. I always run 93 gas. I am seeing ambient to ambient -5 (F) for intake temps.
I tried out a new Focus ST and it felt slowwww. My son was out with a friend the other night in a different Focus ST. He came home and said my Mini would absolutely smoke the ST.
Anybody have any thoughts?

 

That app is either wrong with it's reading or your car has a faulty wastegate. I have a boost gauge on my car and I will hit a small overboost period of 21 psi max. I have a 2013 JCW with a DDm intake.

 

Also the ECU cuts boost at I think 21 psi so you can't run more that than without being very knowledgeable with hacks and loop holes

 

If your torque app is correct I'm surprised your knock sensor hasn't turned into a strobe light. Have any codes been thrown on your app?

 

The MAP sensor is 2.5 bar so it only reads up to around 21.5psi. To go above that you'd need an external system using an external 3 or 3.5 bar MAP sensor spoofing signals back to the DME. Like a JB4.

 

Any heat issues? I'd love to be able to move the JB+ over to the right by about 7 inches. MUCH cooler part of the engine but the cabling is too short to reach. If heat isn't an issue for the unit then NBD.

 

We had a higher temp enclosure (& sticker) done up a few weeks ago that I think will hold up well. I prefer the aesthetics and packaging of the shorter wires. But if we get reports of deforming with the new enclosure we'll start lengthening the wires like we had to do with our diesel tuner.