Drivetrain Burger Motorsports (BMS) Tune(s)
Ooooooooooooh boy .i thought i was tripping when i read that the jb+ was actually starting to be available.Guess im Just a fews days too late on the first batch . I follwed the link but am unable to place an order.am i missing something or am i not able to order until the next batch comes out .
I don't think he was asking what it is physically, but what parameter does alter and then pass to the ECU.
But this information is intellectual property so Terry might be a little evasive in answering this question. I'm interested also at least from a big picture point of view.
But this information is intellectual property so Terry might be a little evasive in answering this question. I'm interested also at least from a big picture point of view.
JB+ isn't some proprietary supercomputer. It's a piggyback that interfaces with the MAF signal before it reaches the DME (ECU). In general, I think the JB+ fakes a lower MAF value that it actually reads. In turn, the DME thinks that the car is not taking in the requested air volume, based on throttle position. The DME will try to meet it's load target and compensate for the lower MAF value by increasing boost. It will eventually reach what it thinks is its real target value.
The difference with JB+ is that other tuners piggyback's haven't been abele to work with the relatively complicated logic used in the DME. There was a piggyback called Racechip for the N18 that was advertised to increase power but never actually produced any power gains. The concept is pretty simple, but the difference is that JB+ actually works.
JB+ isn't some proprietary supercomputer. It's a piggyback that interfaces with the MAF signal before it reaches the DME (ECU). In general, I think the JB+ fakes a lower MAF value that it actually reads. In turn, the DME thinks that the car is not taking in the requested air volume, based on throttle position. The DME will try to meet it's load target and compensate for the lower MAF value by increasing boost. It will eventually reach what it thinks is its real target value.
The difference with JB+ is that other tuners piggyback's haven't been abele to work with the relatively complicated logic used in the DME. There was a piggyback called Racechip for the N18 that was advertised to increase power but never actually produced any power gains. The concept is pretty simple, but the difference is that JB+ actually works.
The difference with JB+ is that other tuners piggyback's haven't been abele to work with the relatively complicated logic used in the DME. There was a piggyback called Racechip for the N18 that was advertised to increase power but never actually produced any power gains. The concept is pretty simple, but the difference is that JB+ actually works.
That being said, your explanation, if correct, is what I think the OP was asking for,and I was curious about too.
So I'm wondering if it would be better to go ahead and order one now even though I know they don't currently have stock, or wait until Terry says more are available here and race to make it in with the next batch? Or will they fill orders on a first come first serve basis in which case it would make more sense to just order now.
As a side note, I got the clutch stop and it is well worth the $10. I've noticed that with all 3 shims in place I really have to stomp on the clutch in order to push it in enough to start the car. But shifting is sublime now.
As a side note, I got the clutch stop and it is well worth the $10. I've noticed that with all 3 shims in place I really have to stomp on the clutch in order to push it in enough to start the car. But shifting is sublime now.
Mine came in while I was out this weekend, which was a little of a bummer as I went to a wedding via highway one from SF to Bodega Bay. Fantastic early Friday morning drive with little to no traffic and perfect weather. This was also the first trip with some additional mods on my clubman so it was nice to feel everything coming together in the suspension in the twisties...
Now if I can just wait long enough 'till after work to install the JB+... Already have my 100 mile break-in drive planned out as soon as it's installed today!
Now if I can just wait long enough 'till after work to install the JB+... Already have my 100 mile break-in drive planned out as soon as it's installed today!
Anyone else have a problem with a check engine light coming on? I followed the install instructions last night, drove around for about 15 miles, parked the car over night and when I went to work this morning the check engine light was on. Didn't get a chance to check what it was for yet. I decided to pull over, shut the car off and take the JB+ out. Drove to work the rest of the way with the light still on, I will have to check what it is for later on and clear it. Just wondering if anyone else had this problem or if I did something wrong
Anyone else have a problem with a check engine light coming on? I followed the install instructions last night, drove around for about 15 miles, parked the car over night and when I went to work this morning the check engine light was on. Didn't get a chance to check what it was for yet. I decided to pull over, shut the car off and take the JB+ out. Drove to work the rest of the way with the light still on, I will have to check what it is for later on and clear it. Just wondering if anyone else had this problem or if I did something wrong
Well my work day ran late (go figure) so after install it was too late for my break in drive. Instead I shot up the freeway on-ramp to my rehearsal space which is 2 miles of straight freeway. First pull up the on-ramp and I was showing 16.1 psi and pulling like no tomorrow...
Blasted down the freeway, noticed how easy it was to hit 90 before you even have a chance to look at how fast you are going.
Once I got to my rehearsal space I checked for codes (nothing), so I blasted back home. The more miles it logs the bigger and better things are feeling, by the 3rd round trip I was hitting right at 18 PSI pulling up the on-ramp.
Today's drive to work was a bit thick with traffic but it was SO EASY to pass or just blast by folks at the light. So. Much. Fun.
Later today I'll be topping off my tank with some 100 octane from the 76 station up the way in Redwood City, we'll see how it likes higher octane gas.
It's going to be hard to drive normally for the next few weeks because it's like a brand new car that just wants to go go go go!!
motor specs:
2011 clubman S, Auto
forge intercooler, k&n panel filter, sprintboost. The rest is suspension stuffs.
Blasted down the freeway, noticed how easy it was to hit 90 before you even have a chance to look at how fast you are going.

Once I got to my rehearsal space I checked for codes (nothing), so I blasted back home. The more miles it logs the bigger and better things are feeling, by the 3rd round trip I was hitting right at 18 PSI pulling up the on-ramp.
Today's drive to work was a bit thick with traffic but it was SO EASY to pass or just blast by folks at the light. So. Much. Fun.
Later today I'll be topping off my tank with some 100 octane from the 76 station up the way in Redwood City, we'll see how it likes higher octane gas.

It's going to be hard to drive normally for the next few weeks because it's like a brand new car that just wants to go go go go!!
motor specs:
2011 clubman S, Auto
forge intercooler, k&n panel filter, sprintboost. The rest is suspension stuffs.
FYI, the car WILL NOT pass inspection in PA while installed for a mere 30 miles! Now I have to drive it for a few days and take it back for a redo in a few days until the computer learns how to be normal again!
Did you follow the directions and leave the car locked, hood up, and keys far far away for at least 10-15 minutes before installing?
Anyone else have a problem with a check engine light coming on? I followed the install instructions last night, drove around for about 15 miles, parked the car over night and when I went to work this morning the check engine light was on. Didn't get a chance to check what it was for yet. I decided to pull over, shut the car off and take the JB+ out. Drove to work the rest of the way with the light still on, I will have to check what it is for later on and clear it. Just wondering if anyone else had this problem or if I did something wrong
The problem is, right now if you click on the install directions, or go to the support page, it either goes to the Dyno graph or does not have actual instructions for the MINI, not your fault you didn't know to leave it off for 15 minutes before you out it on.
Kind of curious why such a nice, simple, conservative tuning option such as the JB+ was not released for the N14's? It's awesome to see the N18 crowd get a solid tuning option, but if the N14 is so much easier to crack, why can't we have one? lol
When I installed mine I simply shut the car down, closed the door, waited for the radiator fan to stop running and plugged it in, restarted and drove off, no problems 1000 miles later.... No cel's, I did scan and found a subcode(probably a chassis code) that stated speedometer speed implausible, I suspect it was from the can tool using the speedo and reading 160mph in 2nd gear, lol.
When I installed mine I simply shut the car down, closed the door, waited for the radiator fan to stop running and plugged it in, restarted and drove off, no problems 1000 miles later.... No cel's, I did scan and found a subcode(probably a chassis code) that stated speedometer speed implausible, I suspect it was from the can tool using the speedo and reading 160mph in 2nd gear, lol.






