Using CAN tool and fuel gauge as timing, I see 9 and it dips to 7 for a spilt second and then back up to 9



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Seems like no one likes me, but you can read timing off of the CAN tool? If i do go MAX on the JB what should i look for? I am used to looking at a live A/F gauge i had on the evo and it need to be around 11, 12 would be too lean.

 

you're looking for the engine to not pull timing during WOT pulls. in other words, you wanna see timing progressing upwards, and to not come back down until you let off the throttle. if halfway thru your pull your timing drops (by 3degs, for example), that's not a good situation.

 

Ahh gotca, so it not do drop 3 tear drops via fuel gauge right?

 

A dip here and there is OK. But lots of repeated dips mean you need more octane or less boost.

 

Does the JB have a learned period again once removed? I removed it when the car went to the dealer and felt it took 20-30 miles to get back to normal.

 

Hey Terry,

If I'm running 94 octane, is it safe to go above the 10:00 position in a JCW?

 

Yes yes yes

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Yep

 

It depends. If it's really 94 octane yes. But many 94 stations in say Canada offer gas that is worse than 91 octane. So you'd really want to monitor timing to see.

 

It is safe to say that most if us are playing around with the pot dial during the winter months where the temps are much cooler. Once the summer comes, I think things will change again. Am I correct? At least for me in Texas where it can be 100 degrees consistently.

 

I would agree and say that once you choose to deviate even from the factory setup, you have chosen to constantly monitor and adjust your system as needed throughout the seasons and throughout the life of the car. But, for me at least, that is half the fun!

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211 hp 230 ft lbs Today's dyno !!! Coming from a cooper s I think it's a pretty good result Is it safe for the engine to be pushed even more by adding to my to my modes a jb+ ? I heard that the n18 engined are no that strong to cope with a lot of hp .

 

2011HP is nuts!! lol j/k

 

Looks like 191.8HP

 

Hehehe 2011 I beat the Bugatti veyron ! And I thought that you look at the max engine hp which is 211 Hp , isn't it ?

 

Is Max engine HP and TQ at the wheels or is the computer converting it into crank horsepower?

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No one knows the timing tables for each gear and load target..until this is know "monitoring" timing is a waste of time. There are millions of combined variables between in each gear between air temp, throttle position, load, fuel,false knock from something loose in the engine bay...ect ect..until Terry or another vendor can offer a way to data log these variables, these are all wild guesses and nothing more.

 

To be honest Mario I'm new at that game
They put the car on that machine were the front wheels start spinning and when that stopped I got these figures on the screen ...
Hope I answered your question
All I know is that they consider the max engine power and max engine torque for final results which is 211 hp and 230 lb ft

 

The real numbers are 191.8 whp and 209.1 wtq in the photo, great numbers. What was the air temperature during runs?

 

If you could call the dyno place and ask. My hp to the wheels was 245whp which is about 270 at the crank. It's best to do wheel horsepower, because that is what power is actually hitting the payment.

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Monitoring timing can be useful...

For example, say you monitor timing and it increases or stays steady during a WOT run then you turn up the dial on the JB+ and timing is then consistently and repeatedly retarded then you probably don't have sufficient octane and should turn the dial back down. Now you have to compare apples to apples so it's best to try and keep all the other variables the same or as close as you can, for example ambient temperature - comparing a 40F run to a 80F run is not good.

I try and use the same stretch of road and it's done WOT from 3K-redline in 4th gear and I try to match ambient conditions.

Monitoring timing while just driving around is pretty much pointless.

 

Your only know variable for your baseline is rpm and air temp? A better understanding of how a car compiles many other variables per sec to attain timing is the only way to achieve a "known" baseline. Simply advising someone to monitor timing based on rpm and air temp is pointless and somewhat reckless as it could lead to a false positive.

 

Just noticed on the corner of the photo the temp looks like 70, that is great real numbers at normal temperatures with real world fuel....

 

The temp was 70
How come my dyno shows 192 hp when I have the jcw tuning kit plus the modes
The tuning kit alone brings the car to 200 hp
I'm i missing something here ?
Thanks