If you have the SB, then I would simply stay with it. Nobody is saying that it isn't a quality unit, I just couldn't justify the price.

 

Probably will, but if the D1 Spec "goes to 11", then I'd happily switch.

 

Other than the fact that the unit is half the price of the sprint booster the pluses I see are :

1/ rather than just off and on you can fine tune your desired result in nine increments.

2/ constant read out of throttle position may be of interest to some.

3/ very easy to switch from Eco to Normal to anyone of 9 advanced programs

4/ very easy install and removal if necessary

As for any type of malfunction I can only say that while driving I accidentally knocked the y connector I used to power the unit ( since been re routed ) and the result was un noticeable other than my throttle profile was back to stock. If the unit loses power you don't

Randy
M7 Tuning

FYI I am not a dealer nor supplier of the unit just another retail customer

 

From what I can see, sport mode goes to 9 plus, economy mode and normal mode.

So yes, it does basically have 11 settings. So far I have only used SP3 and love it.

 

This might be a stupid question, but I'm wondering if you need to "recalibrate" this everytime the OBD connection is disconnected. I'm thinking about the times when I need to bring my MINI in for something warranty related, I'll probably disconnect it from the OBD and the pedal harness just to be safe. Anyone have any experience if the calibration is persistent in the unit or if it needs to be recalibrated after disconnecting/reconnecting.

Thx!

Al

 

This might be a stupid answer but...there is no recalibration button...so my guess is...no...

And wtf is a ECO setting? Is that when you run out of gas?

 

Maybe We can di a group buy in for this, for the guys who want to test the hype out :-)

 

I just finished installing my D1 Spec today - it was straightforward and simple. I probably spent more (too?) much time routing the wires along other harnesses just because I'm OCD. To answer my question from before, it seems the settings/calibrations are 'persistent', i.e. when the power is off, it retains your last SP#, EC# or 'nor' setting.

The calibration is the steps outlined in the instructions so that the unit knows the low and high voltage thresholds. My R56 has a 2.0V swing between 0 and 100% throttle. This is the calibration I was concerned would be lost when power was disconnected but it's not. (Makes sense otherwise you'd have to calibrate it everytime before you started the car.)

I'm running my settings on SP7 right now - the regular Cooper is a little less 'sensitive' without the turbo.

 

I was wondering this myself. I figured I would simply pull it and then plug it back in to see if the settings are kept once my splitter arrives.

 

oops...I didn't see the calibration info...would someone mind sumarizing the steps for those of us who tossed the instruction?

 

Sure! Here goes:

1/ Power up the ignition, but DON'T start the engine. Keep your foot off the accelerator pedal!
2/ On the D1 Spec controller, press the MODE button until it says "nor" (normal)
3/ now press and hold the SET button until the counter starts and goes from 7 to 0. Then release the SET button.
4/ It will flash "L--". DON'T press the accelerator. This is will be your lower voltage threshold. Press the SET button to register the low voltage/pedal up position.
5/ At this point, "H--" will be flashing. NOW press and hold the accelerator to the floor. While holding the pedal to the floor, press SET. You've now set the high voltage threshold.
6/ That's it!

I also just found out that if I didn't follow directions (always had that problem as a kid), the "half engine icon" would show up. I powered everything down, performed the above calibration steps and the 'icon' went away. (BUT, I still have those darn pesky "pending codes" in the system, which my ScanGauge II can't clear. If anyone knows of another way to clear 'em I'd be grateful).

Regarding the power and memory, it is persistent. There is no "trickle" current in the OBD - the unit does power down about a minute after the ignition is turned off. If it wasn't persistent, you'd be resetting every single time before you started your MINI again.

Hope that helps!

- Al

 

Thanks so much Al...I think I will get a different reaction after this calibration lol...

 

You bet! I'm surprised you didn't get a CEL already - maybe your default settings were "close enough" that the ECU didn't mind. My MINI bogged badly without a calibration and pushed a CEL.

 

To be honest, I was wondering if this thing was working or not lol...now that it's set, I can see numbers flashing when I goose it...in the garage...it's 100+ outside so it'll be a while before I go for a ride...

 

Anybody do a back to back comparison to sprint booster?

 

That would be an expensive comparison! Unless you had a buddy to swap a SprintBooster with...

Interestingly, for those of you with a ScanGauge AND the D1 Spec unit, I set the ScanGauge to read TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and observed the relationship to the D1 Spec. As you know the D1 Spec shows you the percentage of throttle (i.e. A15, A40, A95, etc.) and it seems to be "actual" percentage of throttle. The ScanGauge shows a bump in the TPS relative to the D1 - how big the bump is depends on the "SP" # your D1 is set at. It's something to geek out on if you have both. I hardwired my D1 using quick disconnect splices so I can run both units. Just some food for thought.

 

So anyone here not have one and want to do a buy in.

 

Oh Ya...now that it's been calibrated, I really feel the changes...one thing I need to adjust is not to over rev starting from a light

It's pretty neat to see the throttle position read out in real time...nice

 

question. This just makes your throttle more sensitive, correct? like say for instance without it if you were to depress the pedal say 20% down it opens throttle to 20%, but with it if you were to press it 20% down on the pedal the throttle would open up at 30%. Is this correct? If so what happens when you floor it? it would not open the throttle any further but it would just come on sooner b/c of the sensitivity has been increased.

 

The best that I can explain it (probably similar to those of the SprintBooster) is that it changes the "ramping rate" of the throttle. It's not just how much it opens, i.e. 30% at 20% actual pedal, but also how quickly the 30% is achieved. I think that's been the issue with "throttle lag", at least in my experience. Previously, I would floor the throttle (i.e. 100%) to make a left turn into traffic and the lil' Coop's engine would "bog" for a moment then catch up. Now, at 40%, I can feel it immediately respond without the "bogging". Does that make sense? It's not just how quickly you punch the pedal - the throttle is 100% electronic so the ECU needs to follow its ramping rate, i.e. the translation of your accelerator pedal's angle (which is conservative).

 

I think it would swing the butterfly 110% and break the throttle body

Not really...

 

has anybody tried installing this on a 2002 r50? I dont see why they would make the pedal connector different than the other years, but I'm getting the impression that they did and im ready to rip my hair out.

So this is the pedal connector:



and this is the D1 spec connector:




now if you look on the connector on the pedal (1st pic) there is a nub above the pins (the only part of the plastic that looks torn up after I hacked away with a screwdriver) that gets in the way of the D1 Spec connector and it wont plug in. Im on my way right now to buy a very small Exacto blade and try to cut the nub away altogether, and then it should work fine. If anyone else had a similar issue then I would feel a little better about this.

EDIT: I also just noticed looking at these pics that there is a nub on the bottom that mirrors the top one and will also get in the way (next to pin#6). Great.

 

I was actually having the "wookie"sound in the mornings before I installed this thing. Now, I think that I actually engage the clutch at a better rate hopefully saving my clutch from wear. To be honest, MINI should have done something like this long ago.

Dominic, you will have to "modify"the plug that comes with the DS1 kit. I had to do this on the R53 as well. On the "wing" portions of the connector, you will have to take a small pair of needle nose pliers and break out the ridge with them.

 

Also, be careful as it looks like you are already bent a pin and tore up your throttle pedal a bit.

 

I fixed the pin and cleanly got rid of those nubs on the pedal and the D1 spec connector fits nice and tight. The rest of the install took all of 30 seconds.

Everyone else has already made this pretty clear but ill just say that its the best $120 i've spent in a while.