225/35 sounds like an awful ride.

17x9 wont let you go very low at all, without air. Let alone have troubles with axles if is an MCS.

Just my .02. I would go with a 16x9. +20 the offset I would run on a x9.. which you are going to need front camber to tuck that.

 

Definitely not the tire choice for ride comfort, but there are plenty of Minis with 18s and 35 series tires that get along just fine.

There is an R56 running 17x9 et30 225/45 right now that is pretty low:

225/35 should allow him to get a decent bit lower.

Why would running 17x9 have any correlation with axle problems?

The car he gave as a source was 16x9 et25 don't know why he would go with less offset then that.

 

Because a 17x9 and slammed adds a hell of a lot of stress on the axles. We have done some trial and error on this one with my car, (19 axles, 2 transmissions) and what we found is "slamming" an R56 on 17s will cause axles to bind, and depending on mods and power output the added TQ of the MCS can cause the axle to blow out. I am not saying itll be a 100%, I am saying it just depends on how low he goes.

The above cat looks alot lower than I think it is, dip in the JCW front bumper + splitter. If you look at his skirts you can see his height.

Granted I wouldnt mind that tire and wheel setup above, I would do it on a 16 though. haha.

Just my .02. Poster can do as he pleases just my experiences.

16x9 +20-25 is still some poke up front and requires camber to look right.. but maybe thats me I think poke looks dumb.

 

Your experience with axle failure doesn't convince me that 17's and low is R56 axle kryptonite. I know I am not quite as low as you but I have driven a lot of miles on a significantly lowered Mini on 17s and not had any issue.

All I am saying is being that you are the only person to have had this issue (certainly to this extreme level anyway). You probably shouldn't be dissuading people from getting 17s and lowering.

Either way you are switching to 16s right? I will be interested to see what happens, you shouldn't change the setting on your coilovers for the first couple weeks. If the axles hold it will certainly be a lot more convincing.

I know the example I posted ins't the lowest ever, heck the diameter of a 225/45 is 25". But a 225/35 which is 23.2" is shorter then the 205/40 you and I both run and is decently close to a 215/40/16, for a 17.

BTW I don't like to look of that much poke either. But the pic that he reference and said was his favorite r56 stance had a lot of poke.

 

Thanks guys for all the advice it helped me consider a couple of different things. I will be using my car to race so my camber at last on the front should be at 0 and with 9" wide wheels it will be too much poke.

Does anyone know roughly how much a 9" wheel will stick out with 0 camber?

I will most likely be going with a 225/40 for a better ride. I dont care to be super slammed either I just want to drop and have a little wheel gap because I don't want to be driving likr a grandma with the amount of bad streets they have here in miami.

 

If you are going to race your car you definitely want a good deal of camber in the front. Most minis that do serious racing run between -2 and -3 camber in the front.
The car I referenced does do some serious racing:



A 9" wheel will poke different amounts based on its offset. The picture you originally referenced however has very little camber and at et25 is pulled into the car about as much as it can be, so it is a good reference for how much poke a 9" has with little to no camber.

Also 225/40/17 is a fine size for an actual race car, since they really only make slicks in that size. But there are really no street tires made in that size at all.

Also you are going to race on Vmaxx? They aren't really a performance coilover.

 

I forgot to mention I will be drag** racing. No autoX or time attacks lol. That's why I said 0 camber because I need as much tire contact as possible. Also, I just saw the tires and you're right about there being no street tires, I will probably end up on 225/45 on the street and change to 40 for racing

 

Well I don't have much insight as far as drag racing an R56 goes. Other then good luck with the N14/N18, not the best engines for making big power.

 

Yeah I know its not so great but an r56 doesn't need big power since its a light car. Let's see how far my endeavors take me though.

 

That track shot looks great.

I love his setup for track. I am looking at a 15x8 for track with a 225/45.

And then a 16 for DD.

 

Hi guys,

I'm normally not that actively posting on any forums but I wanted to thank you all for sharing info on setups..

I am not sure if i should start a thread or if i could post here to get my answer.

I've read alot both on MU and here on NAM and its still a little blurry for me. I know that our original offset it high and therefore the main problems have been inner clearance when going wider wheels.

I have a R53 and I was planning to order KW V1 and then the Rotiform BLQ 17x8 that comes in et20 and et30. Since the et20 would give more inner clearance would that be the prefered setup or would it poke the fender too much?

Please chime in with thoughts on et20 and et30 in terms of matching with KW V1.

Kind regards,
Love

 

I am going to say you want the +30, the +20 will give you mexi-poke without camber plates. I run a 17x8 +35 without problems, granted im an R56 I dont think its that different.

My experience is that the perfect offset depending on camber is around +25 front and rear. I had V1s prior to my JIC-Cross, decent coilovers just kind of soft and have no dampening control. But they are one of the lower coilovers.

 

Thanks for the info! :D Yeah, I read about that on the V1's but since I wasn't to plan on tracking the car they should be pretty decent for a daily ride...

 

If you are planning on going super low, you arent going to enjoy the ride very much. Just my .02 after 8 months on them.

 

Could i go 225/40/18 on 18 7.5 wheels stock high"t without any rubbing ???..at the moment im running 215/35/18 makes the wheels look like 16s

 

I won't have 8" wheels but, I am getting 7.5s.

 

17x8.25 Et 25 5mm spacer with 235/40/17. Still need to adjust the camber.

 

Wow, I will be interested to see if you can make that work. Most people running 235/40 have used like 20-25mm less poke. Usually like a 17x8 et35 or 17x7.5 et40.

No doubt you can do it in the rear, but that a lot of tire to pull in with only 3º of camber adjustment in the front. Good luck though, I'm excited to see the results.

 

I have -4* in the front, I was able to tuck a 17x8 +15, granted it was a 205/40.

That poke is going to kick all sorts of rocks into the paint.

 

This setup is primarily for track use. New lug nuts are on the way so i should be able to remove the 5mm spacer if I have clearance and then the camber should bring it in line. The R1R's pick up every tiny piece of gravel as well.

 

Update.

Adjusted the camber and removed the spacers. Everything fits pretty tidy. Clearance from the tire to the spring is about 6mm up front.

 

looks a whole hell of a lot better. how much inner clearance is there? what brand? i have 17x8.5 and lookin at getting some meatier tires.

 

There is abot 6mm clearance to the front struts. The rear has plenty of room. Tires are Toyo R1R 235/40/17

 

What coilovers do you have? I thought you had some version of BCs. You should have around 12-15mm clearance from the wheel rim to the strut at 17x8.25" et25

The fit looks pretty good though. Should work for the track anyway.

 

Yeah I have BC BR Series. There is enough room for my pinkie finger to fit between. I guess that is more like 10mm.