Am I mushrooming? pics enclosed.
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2nd Gear
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 57
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From: Chatsworth, CA
Am I mushrooming? pics enclosed.
I think I have some on the right, please advise. the black inner part you see looking into the top of the hole is not broken(name?) Why is the right more common, or is it? Is it possible for it not to progress if sharp edges are avoided?
Thanks much.
p.s. Going in tomorrow for broken motor mount, related?
Thanks much.
p.s. Going in tomorrow for broken motor mount, related?
You have hardly any mushrooming at all. With such slight mushrooming, getting the M7 SRPs will make all your troubles go away. If it had been more, then...well this is from another thread, same topic:
The upper spring plate and guide support are also bent as much as the strut tower deflection. If the mushrooming is not to bad, pounding on it with a block of wood and hammer, followed by the M7 strut tower plate/bar will fix all your woes.
However, if you want a proper fix or if the mushrooming is bad, the strut must be removed so that the aformentioned parts can be replaced, with either OEM or camber plates.
The camber plates have the benifit of eleminating the risk of the rubber in the OEMpart of tearing, not to mention alowing camber adjustabiltiy. Oh, the M7 strut plate is a must after any pounding on the tower. Metal once deformed and pounded back looses some of its strength.
The deformed tower can be driven on for quite a while, but your alignment will not be perfect. Also, it might start to mushroom a little more over time. I myself had a mushroomed strut for the better part of 2 years, without continued mushrooming. I had it fixed it with camber plates, wood/hammer, and the M7 plates.
However, if you want a proper fix or if the mushrooming is bad, the strut must be removed so that the aformentioned parts can be replaced, with either OEM or camber plates.
The camber plates have the benifit of eleminating the risk of the rubber in the OEMpart of tearing, not to mention alowing camber adjustabiltiy. Oh, the M7 strut plate is a must after any pounding on the tower. Metal once deformed and pounded back looses some of its strength.
The deformed tower can be driven on for quite a while, but your alignment will not be perfect. Also, it might start to mushroom a little more over time. I myself had a mushroomed strut for the better part of 2 years, without continued mushrooming. I had it fixed it with camber plates, wood/hammer, and the M7 plates.
1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2007
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Are the SRPs better to have than the M7 strut bar with the plates? Are the SRPs thicker to better deal with this or would I be ok putting the strut bar on them? I figure I might as well get some performance increase at the same time if something has to be done anyway.
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4th Gear
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 492
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From: Arizona
Agreed. I've had the M7 SRP's for the last 11,000 Miles, (car has 11,900 now). They work great! No shroom's!
The M7 strut bar uses the same plates as the SRPs. There is just a bar between them.
Terry
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