Ok, I have read that you can drop the strut, and level out the mushrooming of the towers. I am assuming I just remove the 3 nuts on top of the tower and lower the strut and then take the hammer to it? And what can happen due to the tower shrooming?
Phillip

 

The upper spring plate and guide support are also bent as much as the strut tower deflection. If the mushrooming is not to bad, pounding on it with a block of wood and hammer, followed by the M7 strut tower plate/bar will fix all your woes.

However, if you want a proper fix or if the mushrooming is bad, the strut must be removed so that the aformentioned parts can be replaced, with either OEM or camber plates.

The camber plates have the benifit of eleminating the risk of the rubber in the OEMpart of tearing, not to mention alowing camber adjustabiltiy. Oh, the M7 strut plate is a must after any pounding on the tower. Metal once deformed and pounded back looses some of its strength.

The deformed tower can be driven on for quite a while, but your alignment will not be perfect. Also, it might start to mushroom a little more over time. I myself had a mushroomed strut for the better part of 2 years, without continued mushrooming. I had it fixed it with camber plates, wood/hammer, and the M7 plates.

 

So I am guessing the strut tower plate may possibly need replacing as well?

 

M7 strut tower plate:


OEM upper spring plate #7 and guide support #1



You replace those two OEM bits, and then add the M7 reinforcement plate after pounding the shock tower flat. Sorry, my wording might have been confusing.

 

Cool that will work. Now will the strut tower plate work with camber plates?

 

Indeed it does. It will infact work better with camber plates than with the OEM bits because the camber plates come with longer studs.