R50/53 2006 r53 pissing coolant YET AGAIN! HELP
#1
2006 r53 pissing coolant YET AGAIN! HELP
Hey MINIacs, as some of you know I broke down on Pikes Peak in CO about 6 months ago due to a lower coolant hose letting loose and dropping all the coolant. I had the BMW dealer in Colorado Springs fix it up and I drove it back with no problems to Manhattan, KS. A few months later I drove Barnaby to Kansas City Baron MINI and they did a inspection, oil change, and put some new tires on him. I got the car home with a HUGE list of worn and items that need replacing. I ordered all those parts and more for about $1100 from Way and ECS. Fast forward to the day the packages came in I went picked them up drove to my apartment and parked the car. I come out no more than 5 min later to all the coolant out of my car again SEE PIC. I live in a apartment now and have no tools to do the work.. WHAT DO I DO NOW? And what does everyone think it is? I am tempted to order new hoses (silicone and clamps) but not sure if this is the fix or what I can do. Thanks all in advance
#3
Nope check the coolant tank and cap and they are both fine. I have a whole coolant kit including a tank, water pump etc from ecs just waiting to be installed but I'm afraid it might be hoses now?
#4
Just saw this, sorry to see this :( , could be the connection flange at the water pump, the waterpump itself, or the hose near the water pumped based on location.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-mcs-only.html
If you dont have the tools I would get it to an indy shop and show them the reapir and see where the leak is, could be a flange or hose or that WP.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-mcs-only.html
If you dont have the tools I would get it to an indy shop and show them the reapir and see where the leak is, could be a flange or hose or that WP.
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#5
#6
Mine was leaking from a broken water hose connector (the plastic was cracked.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/r50-r53-hatch-talk-2002-2006/291911-coolant-leak-help.html
This is the thread and it shows the parts I was talking about.
Could be that you have a cracked plastic fitting like I did, just a bigger crack?
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/r50-r53-hatch-talk-2002-2006/291911-coolant-leak-help.html
This is the thread and it shows the parts I was talking about.
Could be that you have a cracked plastic fitting like I did, just a bigger crack?
#7
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#8
Just saw this, sorry to see this :( , could be the connection flange at the water pump, the waterpump itself, or the hose near the water pumped based on location.
If you dont have the tools I would get it to an indy shop and show them the reapir and see where the leak is, could be a flange or hose or that WP.
If you dont have the tools I would get it to an indy shop and show them the reapir and see where the leak is, could be a flange or hose or that WP.
I had already picked up the coolant refresh kit from you a week prior to this happening so already have the water pump kit, thermostat with housing, and coolant tank all ready to install as soon as I get this figured out. I am thinking hoses next?
Mine was leaking from a broken water hose connector (the plastic was cracked.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...leak-help.html
This is the thread and it shows the parts I was talking about.
Could be that you have a cracked plastic fitting like I did, just a bigger crack?
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...leak-help.html
This is the thread and it shows the parts I was talking about.
Could be that you have a cracked plastic fitting like I did, just a bigger crack?
Where exactly is this O ring located? And yep I am redoing the whole coolant system while I am in there just might need a hose kit now??
#9
Is the connection flange something that needs to be ordered or will it be taken care of with a new water pump?
I had already picked up the coolant refresh kit from you a week prior to this happening so already have the water pump kit, thermostat with housing, and coolant tank all ready to install as soon as I get this figured out. I am thinking hoses next?
I am going to go out there this weekend and see if I can locate it. Without a lift or jack and limited tools this is quite hard. I have been riding the old bicycle to work and school and let me tell you 16 miles a day sucks! My *** is a little sore to say the least!
Ok thanks I have that part all ready to go and install once I get new hoses
Where exactly is this O ring located? And yep I am redoing the whole coolant system while I am in there just might need a hose kit now??
I had already picked up the coolant refresh kit from you a week prior to this happening so already have the water pump kit, thermostat with housing, and coolant tank all ready to install as soon as I get this figured out. I am thinking hoses next?
I am going to go out there this weekend and see if I can locate it. Without a lift or jack and limited tools this is quite hard. I have been riding the old bicycle to work and school and let me tell you 16 miles a day sucks! My *** is a little sore to say the least!
Ok thanks I have that part all ready to go and install once I get new hoses
Where exactly is this O ring located? And yep I am redoing the whole coolant system while I am in there just might need a hose kit now??
When your in there. Be very careful with the two hard plastic vacuum hoses that connected to the big black plastic hose.
#10
#11
If I were you, I'd start with this: get a gallon or two of distilled water; fill up and bleed the coolant system and leave the reservoir cap on tight - you'll need pressure to check the system. If the leak is so bad that the coolant/water just runs out of it, don't drive it! Just get it towed to a mechanic. If it does hold coolant for a limited time...
Depending on how dirty or grimy the coolant flow areas are, get it to a "pay and spray" carwash and blast those areas as clean as you can.
Top off the coolant reservoir again with distilled water; put the cap on tightly.
Let the warmed-up and cleaned engine idle, and watch it with a bright flashlight: with the A/C off (so the fan doesn't automatically come on) look at the reservoir; look at the radiator hoses; look at the thermostat housing where it meets the block (a known gasket issue); top off the reservoir again (but always put the cap back on tightly); have someone rev the engine or rev the engine by hand if you can... Keep your eye on the idiot-light temp gauge inside the car; keep it hot, but don't let the temp get too high. The leak should make itself known.
Also, it's hard to see anything from underneath with that plastic "skid plate" in place. A small/stubby phillips and a 10mm (8mm?) socket will get it out of the way so you can more easily see where the drips are coming from. Hell, if you can't jack it up you can always drive one side of the car up on to a curb so you can crawl underneath somewhat.
Depending on how dirty or grimy the coolant flow areas are, get it to a "pay and spray" carwash and blast those areas as clean as you can.
Top off the coolant reservoir again with distilled water; put the cap on tightly.
Let the warmed-up and cleaned engine idle, and watch it with a bright flashlight: with the A/C off (so the fan doesn't automatically come on) look at the reservoir; look at the radiator hoses; look at the thermostat housing where it meets the block (a known gasket issue); top off the reservoir again (but always put the cap back on tightly); have someone rev the engine or rev the engine by hand if you can... Keep your eye on the idiot-light temp gauge inside the car; keep it hot, but don't let the temp get too high. The leak should make itself known.
Also, it's hard to see anything from underneath with that plastic "skid plate" in place. A small/stubby phillips and a 10mm (8mm?) socket will get it out of the way so you can more easily see where the drips are coming from. Hell, if you can't jack it up you can always drive one side of the car up on to a curb so you can crawl underneath somewhat.
#12
If I were you, I'd start with this: get a gallon or two of distilled water; fill up and bleed the coolant system and leave the reservoir cap on tight - you'll need pressure to check the system. If the leak is so bad that the coolant/water just runs out of it, don't drive it! Just get it towed to a mechanic. If it does hold coolant for a limited time...
#14
#15
Silicone hoses...? I dunno, I think they're overkill for a daily driver - and too expensive. And unless they're black, I neither care for the bright colors of most of them (in any car).
There's nothing special about Minis when it comes to hoses and coolant. Any indy shop should be able to easily diagnose the leak problem.
#16
Was this "pissing" done with the engine running or not? It's possible that the shop that did the previous repair didn't put the hose/clamp on correctly. This happened to me in Austin: went in to the Mini dealer for a proper coolant flush; after moving to LA a few months later, one of my hoses started blowing steam and coolant - from where the tech neglected to put the hose clamp back on. Happily, the Austin dealership paid for the local LA dealership to replace the coolant and hose clamp at no charge to me.
Silicone hoses...? I dunno, I think they're overkill for a daily driver - and too expensive. And unless they're black, I neither care for the bright colors of most of them (in any car).
There's nothing special about Minis when it comes to hoses and coolant. Any indy shop should be able to easily diagnose the leak problem.
Silicone hoses...? I dunno, I think they're overkill for a daily driver - and too expensive. And unless they're black, I neither care for the bright colors of most of them (in any car).
There's nothing special about Minis when it comes to hoses and coolant. Any indy shop should be able to easily diagnose the leak problem.
#17
Yes, I noted the "original pissing." I'm asking about the recent refill and, "I was able to try filling it back up and it all just pissed out again after no more than 2 mins." It probably won't matter since you're getting it looked at by a shop, but there's a difference if water/coolant is simply running out of the system when the engine's not running vs when it is running. IOW, whether or not the water (coolant) pump is pushing it out or is it just gravity. That distinction would tell you how big a hole (leak) you have.
#18
Yes, I noted the "original pissing." I'm asking about the recent refill and, "I was able to try filling it back up and it all just pissed out again after no more than 2 mins." It probably won't matter since you're getting it looked at by a shop, but there's a difference if water/coolant is simply running out of the system when the engine's not running vs when it is running. IOW, whether or not the water (coolant) pump is pushing it out or is it just gravity. That distinction would tell you how big a hole (leak) you have.
#19
UPDATE: I received a call today from the local car repair shop. He said without taking it all apart he has been able to "so far" diagnose it needs a new water pump. I have the water pump replacement kit from ECS I will be dropping off this evening complete with pump, thermostat, gasket, hosing, and coolant etc. He said that in order to get to the waterpump and replace it he needs to remove the supercharger?? I wasn't sure if this was right or not? Also said until he takes the front end off he cant see the hoses or if any of them are leaking. He was asking 800 for the labor and parts but I am dropping off all my parts today dropping the price to 400 for labor..Any thoughts? Or things I should look out for?
#20
UPDATE: I received a call today from the local car repair shop. He said without taking it all apart he has been able to "so far" diagnose it needs a new water pump. I have the water pump replacement kit from ECS I will be dropping off this evening complete with pump, thermostat, gasket, hosing, and coolant etc. He said that in order to get to the waterpump and replace it he needs to remove the supercharger?? I wasn't sure if this was right or not? Also said until he takes the front end off he cant see the hoses or if any of them are leaking. He was asking 800 for the labor and parts but I am dropping off all my parts today dropping the price to 400 for labor..Any thoughts? Or things I should look out for?
And seriously - once they get the lower plastic "skid plate" off from underneath, they'll be able to see a lot more. Putting the Mini into service mode can move the (still connected) radiator just a little bit forward, but not much.
#21
Yes, I believe the S/C has to come off - and that's no small feat. $400 in labor sounds pretty conservative to me. Be prepared to have that raised when they finally figure out what they're in for.
And seriously - once they get the lower plastic "skid plate" off from underneath, they'll be able to see a lot more. Putting the Mini into service mode can move the (still connected) radiator just a little bit forward, but not much.
And seriously - once they get the lower plastic "skid plate" off from underneath, they'll be able to see a lot more. Putting the Mini into service mode can move the (still connected) radiator just a little bit forward, but not much.
I will be providing all the parts to keep the price down but I am hoping thats all it is. Do you think I should just replace all the hoses while im in there as the whole rest of the coolant system will be new?
And also I was wondering if while the super charger is off it should have the oil changed and be serviced?
#22
If you are going to spend the money to have the supercharger removed to install a water pump. You should have them inspect the gears and refill the oil in the supercharger. You can get the lube from a gm dealer or Amazon. I would have the hoses replaced while you are at it. Especially since you are paying labor. It won't be much more labor to replace the hoses.
#23
If you are going to spend the money to have the supercharger removed to install a water pump. You should have them inspect the gears and refill the oil in the supercharger. You can get the lube from a gm dealer or Amazon. I would have the hoses replaced while you are at it. Especially since you are paying labor. It won't be much more labor to replace the hoses.
#24
#25
FYI... There's a step by step here on how to replace the water pump without removal of the super charger.