Is it possible there is something wrong with your map? I know like my map B for some reason will always start up kinda funny and idle brought for a second all other maps are fine

 

When I was learning about turbos, BOV's, etc, I came across this bit of info. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blowoff_valve
Might be old news for you, but it seems to be describing a similar situation as yours, when the diverter doesn't work properly. It also appears to be describing how it works with manual trans shifting, not an auto. Have you worked with your tuner, to ensure the maps are for an auto trans? You say it only holds boost in the stock tune --- sure sounds like a map problem to me!

Manic tunes seem to be the best available, from what I've been reading, but they're apparently done by different tuners, and I'm guessing that auto trannys are not as common as the manual, in the high performance Mini world.

And finally, are both map A and B affected? You indicated last week that map B was gonna wait for Nick.

Best of luck fixing it.

 

Is it possible that Nick could re-write the tune and upload the revised tune and see if the problem still exists? I know what Nick said about writing the programming, but we all know each car has its own little quirks. Maybe it's like when a computer program craps out for no reason and simply re-installing it fixes it.

The problem to me doesn't sound hardware related. It sounds like the ECU is adapting back to it's stock configuration and therefore not allowing sustained high boost levels.

 

Ya that's kind of what I was thinking guys I mean you never know this con flabit computers technology is unreal

 

I take it you have used a vacuum pump and manually control the wastegate while driving?
You have pressure tested the induction; I used and fitting in the hot side to check for leaks. I just got done replacing my diverter b/c it was leaking again, immediate 1/2 CEL and NO CODES.
I used the manual trick to isolate a missing flap door on the waste gate itself inside the exhaust housing. (burned off twice now) Factory techs were chasing their tails for a week.
If you eliminated those issues then its probably an electrical as opposed to mechanical issue. Sorry this is probable not helping or been discussed as reading the whole thread gets to be too much just as diagnosing these minis are.
HANG IN THERE. YOU WILL FIGURE IT OUT.

 

I've stated that happening once already. Got told that it's not possible. Well something's gotta be possible since the entire boost control system has been replaced. New vac pump. IAT sensor
Map sensor. Pressure converter valve. Vac lines. Diverter valve. Pressure tested and vac tested the vacuum tank. Vac tested the waste gate actuator. Then after all that, hooked the waste gate directly to the vac pump. Pulled killer boost. Disconnected the valve cover from the system. That didn't fix it. Honestly, with the amount of parts that got replaced, and I wasn't afraid to just throw new parts at it, I think it's the ECU. But I'm told no it's not. So honestly, I haven't got a clue what to do now. I'm done chasing it from a trouble shooting stand point until something else that makes the decisions as to when and when not to add boost is verified that it's ok.

 

I've used everything you could. To make a trouble shooting. As far as asking him to re-write the maps, I asked if it could be wiped out and reinstalled, I was told yea we could do that. But I need to get a spare ECU now. My girl uses my truck for work and I need the cooper to get the physical therapy. But something needs to be done. I'm starting to get impatient.

 

I have been texting with Sprintcar and telling him to hang in there as well.

I'm having the same issues as he is with the tune not holding boost. It would spike to 21 in map B and then start pull back to 10 after about 4k. I changed my GFB DV this morning to an OEM DV and now it doesn't even go pass 13.5 and pulls back to 12.5 with my data log in 4th gear running out to 105 mph.
Sent my new logs to manic this morning

I'm waiting on next move as well.



Talking with they guy who did some code work on my car.
Trying to find out if he can clone an ECU. He brought up the DME and EWS might not like it but he is looking into it...
I would like to have two ecu's with two different tunes to use as trouble shooting and using to play around with.
When I went with Manic I lost my DNA tune due to an upgrade that changed my ECU number. I have sent my PowerGate handheld DNA use back so they can erase my old ECU numbers and send it back.
I just want my boost back....

Friends don't let Friends ride stock...
before I changed my DV stock tune held boost at 12.5-13 while the tune would trim back to 10.... so I keep the stock tune in for the last 4 weeks

hang in there help is on the way I hope.

 

Connecting the wastegate directly to the vacuum pump should keep the wastegate activated / open all the time --- on an OEM type turbo system. Has your turbo wastegate been changed to a positive pressure activation?

 

It keeps it closed to build boost. No vacuum goes into open wastegate fail safe mode.

 

OEM wastegate actuates with vacuum! If your hoses are connected as OEM, and your wastegate opens with positive pressure, that's your problem.

A positive-pressure actuated wastegate needs the diaphragm to be connected to the manifold, either directly or thru an external boost controller.

I suggest you try to actuate the wastegate with either a hand-held vacuum pump or tire pump, while watching the linkage, to verify which it is. Then connect the hoses accordingly.

You should also double check with whoever installed your turbo, to find out what they installed for you. Changing a turbo wastegate system is pretty easy to do.

 

You do realize I built this entire engine from the ground up ? I also posted 2-3 pages ago that the waste gate was tested with a handheld vacuum pump and it held vacuum as I went in the house, had lunch and came back. I also posted that I connected the waste gate actuator directly to the vacuum pump and pulled max boost and held max boost. Vacuum on the waste gate builds boost. Less vacuum opens the waste gate. All in conjunction with the diverter valve.

 

And honestly, I really don't care at this point, I've replaced every part under the hood when it was built. And a few parts afterwards a second time.
I'm done dealing with it. You can only replace so many parts before your out of parts to replace.
As far as the vacuum line schematic is concerned, the routing is as such, vacuum pump to the tank, from the tank to the small port on the pressure converter, from the large port on the pressure converter to the waste gate actuator.

 

After all those parts you've replaced its got to be pointing at the remap. There's plenty of members on here who used different tuners and never run into this problem hopefully MANIC will step up because this can't be doing these credibility any favours at this point.

 

Please accept my apologies if I offended you. It was not intentional.

Both positive pressure and vacuum diaphragms will hold a vacuum if they are in good condition. The objective is to observe the linkage actuating the wastegate valve.

At the risk of offending you again, a brief description of wastegate operation --- with engine off, the valve is closed. With engine on, either a vacuum (10 - 20 "Hg) or positive pressure (10 - 15 psi) opens the valve. "Less vacuum" implies no controls and isn't good enough --- you need to know what is actuating / opening the valve!

This is OEM plumbing --- allowing the ECU to control the WGDC --- periodic cycling of vacuum and ambient (or "less vacuum") air pressure. When the pump is connected directly to the turbo, a positive pressure wastegate will NOT open, allowing full boost.

I'm proposing that you have no control of a positive pressure wastegate when the hoses are connected as OEM.

Again, watch the wastegate linkage while doing a static test. Just "holding pressure" isn't good enough.

And now to offend you --- this is your problem. Whether or not you take well-intentioned advice is your choice. You're not the only one that's built it from the ground up. More so than I have, but mine's running pretty good, with known, minor issues, and a positive pressure wastegate. Best of luck anyhow!

 

Dude, I'm trying to tell you it's all been done already. So now to offend YOU !!
Took the air filter out and washed it. Cleaned all the oil out from the filter that the factory at K&N puts in it. **** load of oil came out. Dried it out. Sprayed and cleaned it again. Lightly applied K&N filter oil again. Lightly since there's a MAF Sensor there. For ***** a grins I took the MAF sensor and put it on the shelf. Grabbed an old one that's original to the car and installed it. THATS ALL I DID. Cleaned the air filter and swapped out the MAF sensor with an old MAF sensor that was original to the car. Just went for a test drive.
Wish the light in the boost gauge wasn't so bright bright I would send you a video of the boost gauge while I went through the gears. It's holding boost now. Not one time did I ever get a MAF sensor code.

 

TRY READING PAST POSTS AS TO WHATS BEEN DONE BEFORE YOU TRY TO BE A SAVIOR !! Obviously your not reading what troubleshooting has already been done !!

 

I can't fricken believe cleaning the air filter and or changing the MAF sensor fixed it. Let a friend look at a couple data logs last night. First thing he came back with was, do you have boost surge ? I said yes when I try to pass cars on the interstate and not allowing it to kick down. He said change the MAF sensor. Then I told him the story of cleaning the filter and changing the MAF sensor and it's holding full boost even after it shifts. FINALLY !! Now I can get some true data logs and get this thing fine tuned so I can get some horsepower numbers.
This car had me so damn pissed I couldn't see straight.

 

It's not manic a fault scubby. And I'll be honest with everybody, I even asked Jerry, what about wiping out the software and reinstalling it ? He said we can if you want, sure. But just as manic advertised, there software won't resort back to factory settings or doing something funky like some other tuners have had issues with in the past. I was at my wits ends. I changed every part under the hood except that MAF. So what other part would I have left. I was thinking, screw it, might as well try it. But to be honest, I'm glad I wasn't the ECU, it proves we still have a viable tuning solution for the R56.

 

Nice Im happy for u and happy it was just a stupid maf now get some dam numbers lol

 

Perseverance pays off. Well done!

 

Well when I add up what another good guy told me about boost surge last night, it falls into play and confirms it. NOW LETS GET THIS DAMN THING FINE TUNED AND SEE SOME DYNO NUMBERS !!!!

 

I wish you'd just quit dicking around.

 

Ouch as much of a joke as that was still gotta sting a bit lol

 

Fricken Snapperhead.
I'm making a call right now to get a buddy to help me with data logs tonight.