like rubbing gasoline in a open wound

 

No that's not my intention here, he could still do what I suggested by buying a used head and rebuild it, slap on a stock size turbo. Since he would be using a stock turbo no need for porting, a mild port or none at all.

 

I guess he could be at least to me that would be a step backwards to me he has come a long way and just like anything else there is always going to obstacles to over come and I hope ( I have read this entire thread) that he can overcome some more and have it all figured out

 

😊

 

Funny thing is, even in map A, without methanol, it'll still smoke cars that are running 20 psi. Friend in newark delaware found out the hard way. 😎😊

 

that's awesome ya on Map C I regularly see 22 psi I think I'm gonna throw it in the dyno for giggles. did you switch to t-bolt clamps on all your boost hoses? that I am doing now because I just can't keep them on lol

 

Nope, not at all. I have either the factory clamp or the standard replacement clamps you would get at an auto parts store. When a hose went on, I cleaned it with 2+2 carb cleaner. Inside the rubber and around whatever component the hose goes around. Let it all dry really good. Now it's perfectly clean from oil. Good and dry. So dry the rubber is actually sticky. Clamp it up. From heat cycles it'll get kinda stuck in away.

 

hmm never tried the 2+2 idea just always reclamped and went tight as possible not I've resorted to the t bolts I feel they are a better clamp anyways

 

Please I used to follow your thread until you did a dyno but didn't like your numbers and said you had to fix some things and do another one. Then when asked about dyno figures you kept saying you didn't have time. After that your thread descended into look at my new wheels, seems you had plenty of time for that.

I don't spend a lot of time checking this site anymore what with Systemlord wanting to compulsively post in as my threads as possible handing out engine rebuild and tuning advice like tic tacs. I doubt he's even running any stage of after market tune.

Any way Mr Sprintcars good luck I'm sure you'll eventually post up that all is well with the problem solved and back to enjoying the fruits of your labour.

P.S minivinie92 you do understand 10psi on a larger turbo is not the same thing as 10 on a stock turbo right?

 

I don't have to explain myself, but boy you came outta the woodworks to blast me.

 

guys guys y can't we all just get a long we all have common interests no need to blast each other

and p.s. I do understand but ten pounds per square inch is ten pounds per square inch I was talking about hose clamps not turbo size?

p.s.s. if I could afford a M3 I would trade in a heart beat or in his case keep both I would not even think about it I actually like the M1 better but good luck with that one lol but that's just my taste good luck with the new M3 hope you find as much enjoyment as I do with my mini or more

 

Scubby I tried to call the other day. But your
Voice mail was full. So I left a message with your girl. Fix your phone then let me know when I can call.

 

I went out to try and get some logs of throttle/pedal vs boost from my set up to see if they would be at all helpful to you. Of course my logs dont have enough data points, and I got heavy footed and started hitting boost cut out all the time LOL. Interestingly after the boost cut out the ECU dropped the boost into a lower mode which makes sense. So could the lower boost you see be a boost cut out, I know my turbo spins up fast once its let loose and psi is just measured at the outer wall so if the event happens fast enough you may not even get to see it, and or it could be an active efficiency thing, psi is of course not air in the chambers and more a measure of resistance so the ECU may be out thinking itself trying to match the boost to output.


Anyway the ECU is a boost controller you already have so if your tuner can get the response the way you want it all the better. I even think direct injection response set ups could model classic engines if you wanted. I also think these engines are good for way more power and a usable 600hp although what to do about traction, on the Mini I have been thinking 400hp so as not to be too rough on the trans and shafts. I do think I think too much, better to go carve up some turns.

 

wow before tires and the mount I had trouble keeping the tires from spinning with just the stage two manic tune I could not imagine 400 hp car is so light and dam fwd

 

Ok folks, here's the deal. First off, I asked nick at manic if these issues could be caused by the ECU trying to resort back to factory type setting in a sense. He assured me it could not due to how he writes the programs. And if we all remember correctly when manic tuning came into the tuning scene one of the benefits of going with manic was he was able to eliminate the boost issues that the ecu didn't like due to high boost levels being asked for and turbo lag timing relative to throttle position causing 1/2 power engine lights. Once again, manic proves why it's a good idea to " GO MANIC OR GO HOME ". It wasn't the ecu since, 1. The ecu was not touched and the car responded positively 2. He writes the ECU so it can't do that. So once again I'm proud to be a manic customer, I will admit, after 4 days of trying stuff and nothing positive coming from all the work I was getting pretty mad at this point. Especially when I'm trying to accomplish all this on a knee replacement that at the start of the work process was only 6-7 days out of surgery. And what else could be left if you've tried everything else. But, in the end, it was not a problem with the ecu. Since I've recently gotten a knee replacement my girlfriend loves the car as much as I do. So seeing how mad I was at this thing. To give my leg a rest. She went outside and re-assembled the car by using FaceTime and bringing parts inside the house to me to see how they went. We did end up testing the entire boost control system using a hand vacuum
Pump used for bleeding brakes with one person. All was good. Each vacuum line was tested to assure it was a good line and didn't collapse. Just for poops and grins another diverter valve was installed. A new pressure converter was also used. Without more extensive details we managed to inspect every part and line prior to installation and get the car back together. When we first fired the car up I kept getting a boost sensor code and it gave an immediate yellow engine half power light. Blood pressure through the roof again. I think it was code p0238 or p0328. I forget which it was. But I did some research and changed the Intake air temp sensor. Problem solved the car started and idled fine. Preliminary tests after immediate reassembly showed it might be acting correctly. So later that night me and my nephew took a ride to do some data logs. ( on a closed course track of course ) and 4 different data logs in map A were done. 5th gear with and without methanol from 2000 rpm through redline. And a full pull at the bottom of 2nd gear to the top of 5th gear with and without methanol. Map B was not performed yet as I'm choosing to wait for nick to give me the green light to go further. Don't ask me what was fixed or changed upon the last assembly of the boost control system and the intake. But it seems to be working fine.
Jerry, thank you very much very helping me steer in the right directions to get it repaired. I hope i didn't drive you nuts if so my apologies.
And SCUBBYSNACKS, thanks for the words of encouragement when I was thinking it's never gonna be fixed. Now, wait for Nick and do
map B next. Eventually im gonna get these data logs. Get it fine tuned and do s couple dyno pulls. Then me and an un named group are gonna have some bragging rights. Let's just hope it goes that way.

 

It spins up so fast and hits the rev limiter it stops spinning past were your at. And if you have an automatic car. It shifts at 6500. Tires stop spinning at that point.

 

I have a manual couldn't see my self driving a auto mini plus I'm still young lol ( no offense to anyone ) but congratulations do you plan to go to the track or anything or just enjoy it?

 

Excellent, Fantastic, Sorry if I got you going in the wrong direction but I say blame the computers first
Man is faultless LOL. So I get to get more tuning hmmm more power, well still working out a new alignment set up what will I do with it its already fun. Really Glad this is working out for you never doubted it, was looking at some nice small blocks going together at my friends but so heavy.


Question did you go with total seal gap-less top rings?

 

No. Standard CP forged pistons kit.

 

Well after all the mishaps, the little beast seems to be running fine. Can't wake to start getting those tunes tweaked so I can get some dyno numbers.

 

Well, I've done thrown a diverter valve at it, pressure converter valve, new vacuum pump, new vacuum lines, vacuum tested and pressure tested the vacuum tank, disconnected and plugged the valve cover and intake to eliminate the valve cover allowing boost through, checked all the boost tubes. I can't get it to hold boost. It's suppose to build boost, back off when shifting for and automatic Trans car, after the shift is complete go right back to the boost being requested according to throttle peddle position. If it's to the floor, then it's max boost for that tune. I can only hold boost in the bone stock tune. Anybody got any ideas what to do next ? If I could post a video of the boost gauge for ya I would. But it does seem to be to easy to do so.

 

And the video is just a picture. How is that possible.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated, when I first put it together it would pull what was asked of it, I'm completely baffled as to why all of s sudden it won't pull full boost and hold it like its suppose to.

 

So the issue is back? Thread kinda went north then south quickly??.
MAP and temp sensors like to be replaced as pairs I found.

 

It was all replaced new when it went together. I replaced parts and nothing changes. I had an IAT sensor go bad. Symptom stayed the same as before the sensor went bad.