Lmao. Yup !! I didn't wanna put it in the bed since it's ready for assembly. I figured it deserves a cushy ride home

 

Ok, since someone asked about what the torque spec is in a prior post, I figured since the assembly of the engine is going to begin within a day or two. I decided to open the ARP Stud kits. Inside the stud kit for the head there are instructions as to how to torque the studs. The torque spec. The pattern to follow and how much to torque in each stage. Same goes for the main studs. The main stud kit comes with all the small bolts that go around the outside perimeter of the lower half section. And the kit for the head comes with the 2-3 bolts that holds the head on as well. They are both quite a nice kit to be honest. Also, I was worried about the thickness of the nuts for the two rear studs. The two rear main fasteners for the mains are outside of the oil pan and get two caps kinda like a freeze plug to cover the nut so there's no oil leak. The nuts supplied are designed in a way that the cap/plug can be used. I was glad to find this out. I really didn't want to cover the fastener with silicone.

 

Out of curiosity I now wondered what the torque spec is of the rod bolts since I'm using the CARILLO rods. Low and behold, inside the box was a chart for torque specs for different bolts with specific markings on the head of the bolts. These bolts are 5/16 with Carr S5 on them. These are being torqued by stretch gauge. Stretch for these particular bolts are .0005-.0007. Torque not to exceed 40 ft lb tho. So now I need to buy stretch gauge.

 

Damn it. Got a typo. The stretch is .005-.007

 

SPRINTCARS:


Do you know the size of the conrod bearings that are needed? I'm currently collecting parts for my build and was wondering if you knew whether these:


http://www.1320.co.uk/mahl-motorsport-con-rod-r56


or these


http://www.1320.co.uk/mahle-motorspo...d-bearings-025


are needed...

 

Yes I do. As far as the connecting rods go. We all use the same bearings for the connecting rods. They are all the same size. Now if your talking main bearings. You need to get the chart from your local dealer. Then the letters off the side of the block. Look at the end of the crank. Get those letters. Then go to the chart and see what color is required for each main bearing. Colors decide how think a certain bearing is.
I am assuming you have an r56 N14 engine.

 

The other way you oils do it is have a machine shop measure the rod. Measure the crank. Figure out the proper bearing. If your trying to get a certain clearance.

 

Thanks for your help!

 

Studs and mains are in.



Studs and main bearings. Crank is next

 

Since I have aftermarket Pistons and rods. The rotating assembly needed to be rebalanced. No weight was added to get it correct. But the did have to remove a very small amount. These are a couple photos showing were and what they did.

 

It's the last rod journal

 

Just ground a bit off.

 

New rod bearings arrived today. $209 my cost from the dealer. Now keep in mind folks. If you do work like I'm doing or your replacing the bearings in the bottom end. Rod bearings are all the same. Don't have to worry about color coding. And the cost that I posted is my cost since I get these parts thru my friends shop.

 

The main bearing are decided by the numbers etched on the side of the block. And the on the end of the crank behind the flywheel. Yup, flywheels gotta come off. I'll post a photo of the flywheel numbers and block numbers so you can see where they are located. I'll also post a photo of the chart and explain how you get to the color code that is required.

 

You will need the following six pages to figure out which main bearings are required for your particular engine.

 

Sorry it's sideways

 

There's another page that goes with this one. I think it's the next photo

 

Chart for upper half.

 

This one shows were the numbers you need for the lower half of the bearing is located.

 

This one tries to explain how to use the chart. But I'm gonna make it simple and easy for ya.

 

This is were the letters for the upper half of the bearings are located.

 

This is what they look like close up.

 

So here I made a chart and wrote down the letters on the crank. Then the block. Then below I wrote C and B. Next to C I wrote the letter N cause it came off the crank. Then I wrote the letter H next to the b for block.

 

Once you get the letters off the block and the crank you can go to the chart and find the colors that are required. So, first letter off the crank is N
First letter off the block is H.
Crank letters are lower halves
Block letters are upper halves.
This process is the same for upper halves and lower halves. Let's find and upper half.
Get the chart that says upper half. The crank letters are across the top. The block letters are down the sides. Go across the top til you find letter N. Go straight down the letter N column til it intersects with the block letter H. That's the color you need. Mine happens to be GR. Which is green. Doing the samething for the lower half you will come up with SW which means black. Just because the first one comes up green or any other color doesn't mean the other half is the same color. So every half must be checked and verified.

 

Tops of the Pistons are ceramic coated. Waiting to cool and I'll coat the sides with micro-Slick.