I've been on here awhile. Most know about what I'm doing. So I'm creating this so you all can see how I'm progressing.
I've got the engine out and the head off. I've ported the head. Intake and exhaust sides. I unshrouded the valves in the combustion chamber. Used ceramic coating on the intake port, exhaust port, combustion chamber, intake and exhaust valves. Performed a performance valve job. Intake seat degrees are 22,37,52,67,82 then blended the rest. The valve was 37 with a double back cut of 30 and a 22 degrees.
The exhaust seats are 42,57,72 then blended to bowl 90. Valve is 57, 50 and 45. Couldn't get flow numbers since we don't have a sleeve small enough for then flow bench for this motor.
CP pistons, ARP head bolts and ARP main bolts should be here this week.

 

I didn't understand a word of what you just said but it sounds good.

 

He means the bottom end (pistons & rods) of the engine and his head have been upgraded, ported, something I have always wanted to do. As for the valves they have a 5 angle valve job, I'll be looking forward to an N14 engine overhaul. Even better he won't have to worry about piston skirt failures that happens on some high end tunes.

 

Aaaaand subscribed.

 

Ceramic is for heat control. The piston won't get as hot as a standard piston or uncoated piston. The valves angles were chosen due to past research when building past super stock engines and using a flow bench for best flow rates. I would have used radius's on the seats but it not as reliable as angles.

 

 

my N12 seems to have eaten the intake valves, zero on 1,2 and 4, waiting for tools to do some testing (check cam positions) so I'll be following along for Ideas..
thanks in advance

 

What machine shop are you using? I wan to follow as I will be doing a engine this winter.
I get conflicting info on ceramics ability to withstand extreme heat. I was told temps above 1300 would cause cracking then flaking.

 

Machine shop is me. I use to work at Tim Zepp engines. Now I do things on my own for other shops such as porting since it takes time. By me doing it, it allows them to focus on other things the make money. And I make some cash as well. The shop I'm using for the valve job and setting up heads is joe Cunningham at Cunningham competition in harrisonville nj. I will bore and home the block at joes. Rebalancing or checking the balance will be done there as well.

 

As far as ceramics. You gotta get that stuff ripping red hot before it flakes off. I had my manifold done with one of my other heads as well. Had no tune. The turbo and manifold got ripping hot. Manifold flaked off. When I took the head off due to no tune, the export was still coated and in perfect condition. Along with the combustion chamber. It does help to prevent heat transfer for sure.

 

Any pictures?

 

Here's some photos.

 

 

Very awesome!

 

DAMN !! Just got an email from the company I ordered pistons from. There being drop shipped from CP. I got the 9.5:1 compression 77.5MM. They come with rings, wrist pins and wrist pin clips. 653 was the damage. I will receive them, put them in the oven at 275 for and hour so to get rid of any oils and allow the piston to has out. Then blast them with aluminum oxide for the ceramic on top. Bake it again. The tape it off and do the sides with slick coat.

 

Damn that's a lot of carbon not just on the valves but also the area around the valves, easily robbing you of at least 10-15 hp. With a tune I'm sure you would have lost more hp. Sweet job on the valves!

Are you reusing the stock rods? I see you've dropped compression ratios from 10.5:1 to 9.5:1, I wonder if your turbo can supply enough boost to keep your engine happy? Perhaps the ceramic will help with carbon buildup.

 

Drop in compression to stuff more fresh air. Rods will be stock since it's documented there's 300 HP mini's running them. I will have arp head bolts, mains and rod bolts. Rods normally take a dump when you start revving it hirer. The change in direction at high rpm is what snaps them off. As a on the edge daily driver that will never see the track. They'll be fine. Rods are also 1200 bucks.

 

I think with running these tunes (20 psi) that the weak spots do to heat are the piston landing, the CP's are stronger in this regard. Didn't know that the stock rods were that strong.

 

There not. They just never get to the breaking point with 90% of the people's cars on this site. How many cars are going to get to over 300 -350 HP and use it on the street to break the rods ? You can run 20 psi in these cars all day 6500 shift point never have an issue. Go to 24 psi piston breaks. Piston breaks. Rods still good. Even with the extra boost. The rpm range stays the same. The car noses over past 6500. The cams stop working. The heads out of breath. So why put rods in it ? I think a lot of people go overboard.

 

Xarula I believe has forged rods but he also up'ed the revs and is making big power.

 

I'm upping the power but not revs. I HOPE !!

 

Rods might be overboard. But...I don't have the tools or skills to do a major internal modifications so I need to pay someone to do it for me. I figure while they are there, go ahead do it. While money doesn't grow on tress, from a big picture stand point the cost is somewhat secondary.

 

This is from another forum where Xarula has posted.

"The rpm limit is set to 6950 for the moment but obviously it will be changed when i need it to ... no doubt there i believe .."

"The pic of the 404hp run is aprox one week older than the 413.7hp, the 404hp had a rpm limit different then the 413.7hp one I´m not mistaken... temps were also different ..."

I hope he doesn't mind me posting these quotes.

 

So can you fill in a bit of background on the other plans for the engine? What are your goals for power?

Keeping stock cams? turbo plans? Who is doing the tune?

Other than the carbon, were the ports pretty smooth from the factory, or did you see some significant roughness in the ports or bowls?

Did you CC the heads to see how much you opened them up by unshrouding the valves?

Are the pistons contoured or flat? I think I've seen both type of CP pistons, wondering your thought with the direct injection.

Thanks for sharing.

Have fun
Mike

 

Well, it's just a toy so I really didn't have a goal. Don't wanna be disappointed. If I want serious power I'll hop in my sprintcar on Saturday night and let rip.
I got the 248 cams and wanted to see if I could get a 252 exhaust cam. Really don't wanna buy another set of cams just to use one cam.
Tune will prolly be manic now that there's a dyno here in nj I can get it dyno tuned. That's a major plus for me. I'm a part time engine builder. Old school stuff. Not a computer kid by no means.
Ports weren't cnc'd since I've done three heads and used one to find all the thin spots. They were sized on the sides and used experiences judgement for the floor. The floor is really flat already tho. It's the roof were you gain. And around the divider area. It got thinned out a boat load. I just used dividers and sized from the opening down the rest of the way since it's an oring style seal you can't open it up. So you just make it straight. Really no I shrouding to do to be honest due to the port design. It's actually pretty good. It's rough and has 2 bumps at the top. I've seen smoother castings in brodix and all pro stuff that's for sure. It don't need to be rough since there's no fuel there. Super smooth is better.
Didn't get pistons yet. Still waiting.
Injection is what it is. Can't change except for injector size. So I didn't give it much thought since I'm not putting a stand alone in it.