Sorry, turbo, it's a hybrid turbo. Ko3 hot side. Ko4 compressor. Wagner front mount cooler and the N18 exhaust manifold.

 

sweet

 

thanks for the updates and pics... can't wait to see it completed.
the coatings are very interesting as well. would love to hear more about that as well

 

Oh C'mon, more pics!?

 

I'm getting there, not much to see right now. Got new pistons today. Look like an upside down bowl with 2 valve reliefs for the intake valves pistons, rings,wrist pins and clips are 25-30 grams heavier per piston assembly, requiring it to be re-balanced. I'll put a pic up after I coat the top with ceramic.

 

I guess one can polish the heck out of the intake ports as there is no fuel present.
What grit will u use for the final polish? Is the a finish that can be applied to valves to help deter carbon build up. Super smooth ports will help for sure.

 

I finished it with will roloc (tootsie roll) sanders it was prolly like 180 grit. I was coating it with ceramic so it would be super smooth any way. Had there been fuel there it would have been finished with 36-40 grit.

 

I find it shocking that CNC parts can differ in weight at all being cut by such sophisticated computer controlled CNC machines, those parts should be thoroughly before shipping the product. I bet the stock internals are off by much more versus aftermarket parts.

 

The shirts are considerably thicker. Also, the stock wrist pins are tapered inside. Aftermarket are not. Once they come back from the machine shop you'll see the difference. All together different design.

 

Also, stock pistons aren't cnc'd. There cast then machined.

 

That explains alot actually, I'm thinking about doing exactly what you are doing, getting rid of those cast pistons. Geez...

 

Well, just got my email that I sent to manic about 2-3 months ago. He referenced my connecting rod choice. Apparently, the engine will make around 300 HP. Anywhere from 260-290 at the wheel. However, the stock rods will be highly susceptible to dividing themselves into two pieces and creating a James Bond type smoke screen. SO, he suggested either ZRP(which are not offered in the US) or the carillo with the bankruptcy cost of anywhere from $1,035.00-$1,550.89. So I ordered the $1,035.00. They were from Amazon believe it or not. Company called wholesale race parts or something like that. They are also offered for $8??.00 from somewhere out of Mexico. If you wanna use your credit card for a company in Mexico have at it. Not me.

 

So who does that leave for N14 rod manufactures?

 

Carillo.

 

RMW might offer rods for the R56.

 

Wrong motor.

 

Pauter X-Beam rods. Made to order $950, CNC machined from forged 4340 chromoly billet. Look'em up in racing circles and see what's said about them. Their listed under Peugeot on their website. Small end can be cut straight or tapered (no thanks) and they can cut the big ends for Mahle tri-metal or GSR type racing bearings.

 

Congrats. But the stock rods are tapered as well. It's done in race engines all the time. For another 50 bucks I'll get the carillo. As I did. Pauter doesn't have a good rep within the people I know and work for. If it was pankl. Different story.

 

Tigger, something's not right with what there advertising. The specs look weird. From the PDF file they have for Mini Cooper s (new) they are different from the carillo. Carrillo measures 5.454. Pauter is 5.4530. My stock rod matches the carillo specs. Just rod length along by there measurements you would have to deck the block .010. Not sure i would wanna do that giving the timing chain issues these motors have.

 

Sprint..... Sigh......

 

Huh

 

Thanks. The build should be done in about a week or so. Yeah I was kinda surprised when I first found out some race engines were using tapered rods to save weight. The problem I see for a street performance application is that once the SE wears you gotta buy new since you cant bush them.

As far as Carillo v.s. Pauter I don't think you can go wrong with either one in our application. The Pauter rods are heavier so if RPM is the goal I'd choose Carrillo's. Carrillo's were my original choice till my builder recommended Pauter. Spoke to a couple of other builders and did a bunch of research. I like the extra beefiness, especially near the SE. Plus it was nice to be able to speak to Brian Pauter himself about certain changes I wanted incorporated. I have to say their customer service was outstanding and they got them done ahead of schedule.

My memory is not what it used to be but didn't Pankl buy out Carrillo sometime around 07.

 

The difference between the two is .001 not .010. Factory spec center to center length is 138.5mm.

 

Not sure if they bought them out. There is a separate website for them. They are expensive. I got an email from manic. Nicholas recommended them. There on almost every parts. It's what familiar with. They'll work for me. Glad you pointed out tho.
You going with cams ? I got a set of 248's. I keep looking at those 252's tho 😁 lol

 

Aaaaasahhhhhh. What's a couple zeros here and there. 😉