In most applications lowering the compression ratio protects against Detonation. The JCW as 10.0:1 and the peugoet RCZ-R has 9.2:1 based on 270 bhp. There is some logic that as the BHP per CC goes up or better the cylinder pressure goes up, that unless you have special fuel, the chances are you are better off and safer with lower comp.

Mine detted at 265 bhp on 10.5:1 on the best fuel I can buy in the UK gas stations.

So we need less compression for safety :-)

Appreciate you feel you have the experience here and I wish mine hadn't needed rebuilt either!! :-)

Steven RW

 

I would tap your oil fill cap and mount a gauge to see what kind of vacuum you get. I was reading online and most where saying anything pass 12-14"hg you can suck oil off the wrist pins etc. 18" seams like a far out there number .... Hell I would be happy with 6 +"hg

Thanks for posting your build, the good ,the bad and the ugly......

 

It's back on the road. 200 miles down. Hopefully 1,000's to go.
Gonna start some data logging again. Hooked up the factory PCV system. I'm gonna choose to just keep it clean until I get the seperate vacuum system on it. I don't like not having vacuum on the crankcase with low tension rings.
Another note, HEY NAM, DONT YOU THINK ITS ABOUT TIME TO GET THE APP FIXED ?!?! It's been quite awhile and it's starting to getting annoying. Hard to keep up with people that we've all had conversations with. Harder to help folks as well.
New thread soon to be made with dyno results, parts list and cost. Motor on people.

 

Great news!


As for the app download the new app from the App Store. Is it called Garage Talk.

 

Cool. Now I can join in a lot easier. That's was easy

 

ya I thought the same thing until I downloaded the new app damn technology

 

Great new, thanks for the update

This is a great thread.

 

NAM may have to completely rewrite their app for our new operating system for it to work again. (Lollipop 5.0 and 5.0.1 and 5.0.2)

 

sweet deal Jeff.
I know you want to put your foot in it but be patient grasshopper.... .......lol

 

As I sit here in the hospital getting a knee replacement, the girl has the little monster. It's set to map A for her. Atleast I know it'll get some good slow break in time now.
When I get moving I'll post some nice info.
Motor on people. And for your tuning needs,
�GO MANIC OR GO HOME !!�😎
🇺🇸🇬🇧

 

if I remember we are both in Jersey 😃 I would be more than willing to come down there and help a fellow Nam member in his time of need and drive that beast for you lol!

 

That knee must of been the cause for early retirement from that career in UFC cage fighting

Remember you only needed one functioning leg to drive an auto.good luck with the operation

 

Thanks scubby. I'm out and home now. It's tough going. When I can I get back to the car. Tried data logging. That's a waste of damn time. Changed the pressure converter valve. Put new vacuum lines on. Checked, doubled check, tried a different configuration. Checked the converter valve even changed incase there was a pin he I didn't see. Map A. Boost won't go over 15. Shift to next gear drops to 10. Won't go above it. So I tried map C. Same deals but goes to 20 max. Shift to 3rd. So much for boost. Won't go above 12 psi. Only thing I didn't do was put the catch back on. It's got the factory pcv system right now cause I want vacuum on the rings and crankcase when boost is not applied. Maybe the valve cover can't handle what I got going on. But I'm sure I'm not the only one running this kind of boost. I'm about tired of screwing with this damn car.

 

Weird from your previous post sounded like it was boosting fine what's changed? I don't think its your valve cover remember ever ones got to use it because it the only on available. Maybe Manic has some ideas on what might be causing it.

Obviously the car feels down on power(no false boost reading) and if you were getting a code that's the first thing you would have mentioned almost sounds like the ECU is limiting boost or some things happen to the turbo.

 

Geez, sorry to hear about the boosting issue. I think that's a reason why I haven't bothered and likely won't bother to rebuild the bottom end of my MINI. I think that time has passed for me. I like what it is now on my Stage4 tune, which I just drive in Stage3 now anyways because it's plenty of power/usage for me.

If I need power, I have a 425hp M3 now, so I've got that covered!

 

Yea, I don't what happen dude. Fixed a few things. It was fine. I've got a few tests to do and change a few hoses around. I took the catch can off and ran stock pcv system. Cause I wanted vacuum in the bottom end at idle. It didn't have that in the beginning. Keep in mind, when it jumps from vacuum to boost, it spikes like super fast. Than diaphragm in the valve cover might not be able to take that kind of abuse.
My vacuum lines starting at the pump are as follows, Pump to vacuum canister
Vacuum canister to the pressure converter.
Big port on the pressure converter to the wastegate.

 

I had a similar boost problem last month in Vegas --- well over 100deg F. Ran fine while cool, and only intermittently wouldn't boost over 10psi or so. Got back home to temps in the 90's and haven't had a problem yet. My max boost is set to 30psi, but it's configured so the PCV never sees positive pressure. Anyhow, could your problem be ambient air temperature related?

 

The ambient air pressure sensor ?
Had a surge that went from 20psi to 10 psi. Only see that on the interstate tho

 

I'm not inferring a faulty sensor, just the possibility that hot ambient air is causing the aftermarket tune to react badly. In my case, it may also be a faulty external BOV or wastegate diaphragm --- something reacting to excessive ambient heat. Hasn't happened since I left the heat.

 

Ooohhhh. I see, nahhhh. I don't think it's ambient air temp. Hasn't been that hot in the philly/south jersey area yet. And it's done this samething on the way home from work. Which is late night. It didn't discriminate what the temp was.

 

Well not of that worked. I'm done dealing with it. It runs and won't blow up. Screw it. When I feel like dealing with it I'll be back. But after all that's happened, my patience have ran out.
Oh and I forgot, all the boost tube clamps are tight.

 

I understand what oldbrokenwind is saying. When you data log also log iat your sensor might be bad giving you a high reading and the ECU is reducing the Max boost.

 

I'll look into when feel like working on it again I'm really tired of dealing with it. I seriously appreciate to the help tho. I'll definitely keep reading suggestions. IAT sensor is in the plastic tube on passenger side right ?

 

I believe that the outside temperature that is displayed in the tachometer display comes from the same IAT sensor. So if that is reading correctly then the car is reading the correct IAT.

It's got to be in the the vacuum system. Are you using the stock diverter valve? I'd think that would cause a CEL though.

 

Damn Cerenkov you crazy the tach reading comes from a sensor near the front bumper.

Yes Mr Sprintcars the sensor on the hard pipe next to the valve cover is the iat sensor