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R56 My full engine built will be here.

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Old May 22, 2015 | 05:45 PM
  #376  
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Originally Posted by scubbysnacks
Sounds like reliability has become a problem for you now. Sorry to hear that I was really looking forward to your dyno numbers and by the sounds of it when it was running well it was an absolute beast. Hope you get on top of it and workout the bugs
It'll be ok. I just had to coat the pistons with a different material. Then a slick coating. It's got pistons prepped kinda like an Indy car. lol.
 
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Old May 22, 2015 | 05:48 PM
  #377  
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Pistons are done. Again ! Going back together this weekend. It didn't break parts or anything. I was proactive enough in preventing problems. Cylinders still had the home marks. So we're still good. Just for poops and giggles, I'm adding some more goody's for the engine. Hehehehe
 
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Old May 22, 2015 | 08:55 PM
  #378  
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Misery loves company have my own problems admittedly minor valve cover **** itself checkout the attached image its my latest mod. Have a vacuum leak from a crack and the diaphragms ruptured. Got a price local for $800 for a new one so getting it shipped from the US for $380. With all the silicone its drivable at least
 
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Old May 23, 2015 | 09:42 AM
  #379  
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My full engine built will be here.

Originally Posted by scubbysnacks
Misery loves company have my own problems admittedly minor valve cover **** itself checkout the attached image its my latest mod. Have a vacuum leak from a crack and the diaphragms ruptured. Got a price local for $800 for a new one so getting it shipped from the US for $380. With all the silicone its drivable at least
all I can say is ouch
 
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Old May 23, 2015 | 01:11 PM
  #380  
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$800.00 for VC replacement??
Criminal!!!
 
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Old May 23, 2015 | 01:24 PM
  #381  
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My full engine built will be here.

I wonder if I call my buddy the service manager how much they would be regardless that's insane
 
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Old May 23, 2015 | 02:54 PM
  #382  
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Pistons are back in. Just ordered a vacuum pump from summit racing. Leaving the one going to the turbo. The pump has a switch that senses vacuum. Below "X" inches of vac it comes on. I'm choosing to pull vacuum with a totally seperate pump. I'm gonna try to pull vacuum by a totally seperate system so nothing goes through the intake system at all.
I really need to pick up the pace getting running again so I can go enjoy my me S&W M&P9 5" ported with trijicon RMR sights. I got 5000 rounds crying my name.
 
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Old May 23, 2015 | 11:00 PM
  #383  
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Originally Posted by SPRINTCARS
Pistons are back in. Just ordered a vacuum pump from summit racing. Leaving the one going to the turbo. The pump has a switch that senses vacuum. Below "X" inches of vac it comes on. I'm choosing to pull vacuum with a totally seperate pump. I'm gonna try to pull vacuum by a totally seperate system so nothing goes through the intake system at all.
I really need to pick up the pace getting running again so I can go enjoy my me S&W M&P9 5" ported with trijicon RMR sights. I got 5000 rounds crying my name.
Good luck finding a place to mount the new pump. It's big and gonna be noisy. Only place I found was behind the gas tank, and that length of hose was too long for the original dia. Think about increasing hose size if you mount it that far away. Crankcase volume is quite a bit for a Summit pump.
 
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Old May 26, 2015 | 07:07 AM
  #384  
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Originally Posted by scubbysnacks
Misery loves company have my own problems admittedly minor valve cover **** itself checkout the attached image its my latest mod. Have a vacuum leak from a crack and the diaphragms ruptured. Got a price local for $800 for a new one so getting it shipped from the US for $380. With all the silicone its drivable at least

Wow, what a fix. I cant believe thats holding.

We have the cover here and all the add ons. Also quick DIY and what to do on the newer valve cover design.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ment-help.html
 
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Old May 26, 2015 | 12:13 PM
  #385  
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Originally Posted by oldbrokenwind
Good luck finding a place to mount the new pump. It's big and gonna be noisy. Only place I found was behind the gas tank, and that length of hose was too long for the original dia. Think about increasing hose size if you mount it that far away. Crankcase volume is quite a bit for a Summit pump.
That pump is the same pump we use on big block drag motors when they leave the shop. They pull 18" of vacuum on them. We've had some me motor pull to much and it stopped pumping oil.
 
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Old May 26, 2015 | 12:17 PM
  #386  
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Originally Posted by scubbysnacks
Misery loves company have my own problems admittedly minor valve cover **** itself checkout the attached image its my latest mod. Have a vacuum leak from a crack and the diaphragms ruptured. Got a price local for $800 for a new one so getting it shipped from the US for $380. With all the silicone its drivable at least
God dang !! That's a fix and a half. I had a down pipe come off. Melted the corner. Actually burned a hole in it. I ground it down and re shaped it with the high speed grinder. Then used JB weld 2 part puddy to fill the holes. Worked great for about 3 months. I'm keeping it as a spare
 
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Old May 26, 2015 | 02:56 PM
  #387  
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My full engine built will be here.

red neck ingenuity is all I can say we have all been there
 
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Old May 26, 2015 | 07:45 PM
  #388  
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That JB Weld is some awesome stuff, I've even used it to plug holes in my older model offroad motorcycles gas tank 28 years ago, still holding up! Tanks were metal back then.
 
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Old May 26, 2015 | 09:00 PM
  #389  
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Originally Posted by ECSTuning
Wow, what a fix. I cant believe thats holding. l
As Elwood from the Blues Brothers would say"strong stuff"

New cover arrived in Australia just waiting on delivery either today or tomorrow hopefully. I prefer hillbilly to redneck thank you very much.

And sorry Mr Sprintcar for taking your thread off topic
 
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Old May 27, 2015 | 04:59 AM
  #390  
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My full engine built will be here.

that's funny I prefer red neck lol
 
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Old May 27, 2015 | 07:08 AM
  #391  
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To be classy, it'd be "Mountain William" rather than "Hillbilly"

Regarding JB weld. About ten years ago, I used some JB weld to help smooth out some intake ports in some motorcycle heads, I recently had the heads off of the bike and the JB weld looked as good as the day I put it there. Tough stuff.
 
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Old May 27, 2015 | 11:11 AM
  #392  
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My full engine built will be here.

that's a great way for to put it

and yes jb weld is great I also like "quik steel" I have used that to fix curb rash on rims before I paint them very strong when fully cured and can sand it as well
 
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Old May 27, 2015 | 04:40 PM
  #393  
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Originally Posted by scubbysnacks
As Elwood from the Blues Brothers would say"strong stuff"

New cover arrived in Australia just waiting on delivery either today or tomorrow hopefully. I prefer hillbilly to redneck thank you very much.

And sorry Mr Sprintcar for taking your thread off topic
I don't care dude. It's cool. I'm pretty much done with it. Getting the car going again so the new thread will have part nbers. We're to purchase parts. All dyno numbers. My head has a slight tweak to it again. I think I might choose to keep this one to myself. Cause if it don't work I'll feel like a real horses pa'toot
 
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Old May 27, 2015 | 04:44 PM
  #394  
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Originally Posted by DneprDave
To be classy, it'd be "Mountain William" rather than "Hillbilly"

Regarding JB weld. About ten years ago, I used some JB weld to help smooth out some intake ports in some motorcycle heads, I recently had the heads off of the bike and the JB weld looked as good as the day I put it there. Tough stuff.
Hillbilly. Mountain William.
Red neck. Ah. Heck with it. It don't matter. Matter of fact. Some cars have the British flag. Way I see it, we're in america, we either need the american flag or THE SOUTHERN FLAG. now we're talkin hillbilly, red neck and mountain William. Somebody will prolly start screamin' tho.
 
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Old May 27, 2015 | 05:41 PM
  #395  
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My full engine built will be here.

haha ya know what we are all just people who love their mini coopers and we can leave it at that
 
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Old May 28, 2015 | 12:27 AM
  #396  
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My full engine built will be here.

Originally Posted by cerenkov
I'm having difficulties with the app too.
Try using "Garage Talk" app...just sayin
 
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Old May 28, 2015 | 04:11 AM
  #397  
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Originally Posted by Gearheadaddy
Try using "Garage Talk" app...just sayin
That's the new app and it is still awaiting approval from Apple in the App Store.
 
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Old May 28, 2015 | 04:45 AM
  #398  
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Originally Posted by SPRINTCARS
I don't care dude. It's cool. I'm pretty much done with it. Getting the car going again so the new thread will have part nbers. We're to purchase parts. All dyno numbers.
DID SOMEONE SAY DYNO.............NUMBERS?!
 
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Old May 28, 2015 | 06:14 AM
  #399  
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Hey Sprintcars - after reading through this build, we already knew your head had a slight tweak in it... Or are you referring to the engine?

(just funnin', as a Mountain ***** would say)

Eric
 
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Old May 28, 2015 | 06:38 AM
  #400  
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Originally Posted by SPRINTCARS
First, I don't know how to explain what the shop did any better than how I wrote it. Not being smart. Maybe someone can chime in and help. As far as your compression ratio and new pistons, what was the part number pistons you ordered ? Low compression should be SC7514 for 77.5 mm. What compression ratio are you shooting for ? The proper clearance for the new CP pistons is outlined in the paperwork that comes in the boxes. If your shooting for 9.5:1 like mine, that's what the pistons look like. If your using the piston with the fuel swirl your talking about, that's either a custom low compression piston or it's the factory compression ratio. The low compression pistons that are 9.5:1 don't have that swirl. I didn't design the piston and that's how CP made them. The fuel is already at 1500 psi. It's direct port. Swirl is used for atomizing. As well as trying to make the intake charge enter more efficiently. When you get to the pressure I've chosen to be at. Stuff like that I could care a less about. They are other details of this built that most people just aren't gonna do that makes it run the way it runs.
Note to everyone about this build I did, this car needs attention that takes mechanical ability now. It takes maintenance to keep on top of it and running smoothly without breaking down now. If your looking to build like this but expect to just change plugs and oil. This isn't the build for you.
Hi. Thanks for the details. As you say, it looks like the std compression from CP comes with the teardrop shape in the piston top. OldBrokenWind also confirms that with his pistons from CP at standard compression. If you order the 9.5:1 they come without the tear drop (as you say). I have ordered custom lower compression pistons and was told that CP don't think the tear drop is necessary but hears that others think it is mandatory. As such, on the basis that they were designed that way orignially for some reason, I asked for my custom ones to come with the tear drop. It was a vague area and I decided to stick closer to the standard logic of the piston design (for better or worse!)

Are you happy to explain what sort of troubles you are having with your car? I'm aware that I am changing the engine quite a bit on mine and any experiences that could be shared would be helpful.

I'm concerned that we wont manage to control the ECU and therefore fuel and ignition system to match the level of change we are putting the engine through.

Cheers
StevenRW
 
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