I'm currently replacing my valve cover, and I had 2 questions:

1. In the first picture, I found some silicone in this particular spot (circled in red), and I was wondering if I should just leave it, or remove it and add new silicone to the same area? Is it necessary?

2. Second picture... the red thing. I'm supposed to remove it and replace it with that thing in my hand right? What is it for?

 

1. silicone sealant is not a reusable item. You should properly remove and scrape the surface clean of silicone and re-apply a new bead of it.

2. I have no idea. Hopefully someone who has done this job on their Cooper can help with that.

 

2. Yes, take the red ring out and replace it with the valve thing; its a pressure relief I think.

 

micromini is correct it is a relief valve, I had to drill a little hole in my AEM air box because of it. It was pushing the air box out of alignment with the induction scoop, problem fixed.

 

teleautomata, why are you replacing your valve cover? Also, what year and mileage is your MINI?

I replaced my valve cover today due to oil leaking around the cover plus @ 70k miles, I figured the PCV was due to be replaced. Incorporating the PCV is a ridiculous design but...

With the new valve cover on, the motor seems smoother at low rpms. Only reason would be the PCV was not working properly.

Did you notice any changes with your replacement?

Thanks in advance!

 

The cyclone separator is what goes bad, whether is is open or close when it brakes determines how it idles.

 

If I remember correctly, I had some error codes stating that there was an air leak. I assumed that it was PCV related also, plus I needed to replace the head gasket because it was leaking everywhere. The MINI is a 07' with 100k.

Well, it seems like it's idling much smoother now. The error codes haven't returned so that's always a nice feeling. It may be just in my head, but I feel I'm not burning as much oil as before. Prior to the valve cover replacement my MINI would blow out a huge white smoke cloud upon acceleration, and I haven't had that issue again... or it could be my imagination. Placebo effect.

 

Aaah, I see. That is probably the same reason why the oil was getting forced passed the seals.

 

If you replaced the valve cover "N14 engine" Cooper S and JCW and need the stickers and emblem as they don't come with a new cover, I found the part numbers and we have them here.

Valve Cover Part # 11127646555

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11127646555/






Front Cover For Valve Cover Part # 11127561715

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11127561715/





MINI Valve cover Emblem Part # 11127594876


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11127594876/ES514833/



&

Oil Label sticker Part # 01000419179 ( Which is used on all MINI engine bays in multiple locations dependent on year and model )


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/01000419179/




And the little yellow ignition coil sticker looks to be part #71227618790


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/71227618790/ES2674957/


And what it look like:



Thanks

 

I left my valve cover blank, looks cleaner IMO. I had to replace my valve cover after installing the bsh occ. the tiny bit of added pressure created caused the old gasket to weep more.

 

So you're saying that your (idle) crankcase pressure increased after installing your OCC?

 

Idle didn't change, also can't say for certain the pressure increased but I thought it was kind of weird that the VC started weeping more after the install. Benni did have 50k on her when I installed the occ though so the VC gasket was probably do to be changed.

 

If you have the passenger side PCV plugged up on both ends you essentially give no place for the crankcase pressure to go during idle, your OCC only has oil passing through during boost.

So if you're stuck in traffic your crankcase pressure will build-up until you either step on the throttle or you blow an engine/turbo seal. This is why I'm having second thoughts about even bothering to install my OCC!

 

So the Bentley manual says to apply a thin layer "anti-friction compound such as glycerine" to the cylinder head contact surfaces. Has anyone done this? Is it completely necessary? What exactly is anti-friction compound?

 

I would think that an 'anti-friction compound' would be an inert grease. I put mine on dry and have not had any issues.

Certain greases may not be compatible with the seal material (or valve cover material). If you really want to put something on it, I would put a light smear of silicone grease on it.

Have fun,
Mike

 

Paint that **** yo!

 

Im planning to change my valve cover (r56). First, because of the minor leak. Next is, I am suspecting that the pcv is causing pressure build up in the crankcase that causes the idle up and down. However, when I lift up the oil dipstick or release the pcv hose of the cover or oil cap idling settles down. Also when I detached the connection from the camshaft sensor the rough idle settles down. Any idea if I'm on the right track.

No codes, no engine light on, new vacuum pump, new camshaft sensor, new o2 sensors (pre and post cat), sometimes smooth idle after stopping but most of the time erratic and intermittent idle.

Need your help please... Thanks a lot

 

Can the old Front Cover For Valve Cover be reused rather than wasting $100 on Front Cover For Valve Cover Part # 11127561715?

I have replacement part # 11127585907 which was installed November 2012. not sure if the Front cover design evolved with the valve covers.

 

11127561715 ( linked above ) is the same for the older and the newest part, most people snap them when taking them off, so watch you take it easy and not break the tabs on the part itself.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11127561715/



Thanks

 

Thanks for the info Nate.