Holy smokes, what a nightmare that was. 1 bolt, 1 plastic nut and the battery hold down. It took forever !!!! Lmao

 

Motor is in. "S" catless exhaust is on. Waiting on fedex and UPS.

 

Hi I just wanted say happy first cranks don't go for the 1/4 mile burn out until after first block. Do you have some old tires to have some fun with. I could never decide about break in procedure finally went with standard 20/50 for a few starts not letting the turbo get to hot then went to synthetic for 100 miles or so then regular fills. Seemed to work

 

IT'S ALIVE !!! Gotta locate an oil leak. But none the less. It runs. Tomorrow, fix the oil leak. Install the new vacuum pump from ECS. Fill it with anti-freeze. Top off the oil. Fasten the front fender skirts. And go for the first ride in 13 months.
THANKS JERRY !! You've been awesome to deal with. Were gonna do brakes and suspension after its broke in really good. In the mean time i gotta do the silverado now.

 

How was it smooth and purring like a kitten? As stated previously also wondering how you will brake in so many people have different opinions on this just wondering what your strategy is also will you run typical 5w30 synthetic

 

couldn't tell ya if it was smooth. Didnt run it long enough. I mentioned it had a oil leak and no anti freeze.
I'll break it in just like the factory does when the car is brand new. Synthetic oil. Except i will go a couple hundred miles. Change it. Go a couple hundred more. Change it and do some data logging and maybe a dyno run.

 

Congratulations!!!! It's a good feeling isn't it?

 

Sure is. Couple little bugs to deal with then i'll be able to take it for a ride.

 

Tell what Tigger, i just got home from work. I'm eyeballing the direct port injection system Jerry made for me. He did a nice job making the harness. Nice looking tank. He did a nice job. Now if i can just get this spacer black so it cant be seen. Lmao

 

Ceramacoat that bad boy. That should do the trick.

 

Drove to work today. Preliminary butt dyno says its got alittle more. But some miles need to be put on it before i can tell whats going on. Going down the interstate seems to be ok. But when i try to pass a car its alittle on the sluggish side until it either down shifts or the boost is 5-7 psi. Then it starts to go. That sluggishness could be from the opened up head and the bigger cams. The air takes more to get moving now compared to a stock head. Still to early to tell whats going on but from dealing with engines in the past, its definitely gonna need some data logging and a dyno test. I'll install the methanol kit while I'm breaking it in. But until then, THANK GOD I GET TO DRIVE MY MINI AGAIN !!!

 

Better change that signature of yours to "Currently being revived!" or something of that nature

 

+1 Port velocity is directly related to lower rpm throttle response.

 

Maybe we can trick it by bringing to boost in sooner and alittle quicker. Just a thought. Mileage. I need mileage. I may take tomorrow off and go cruising. NYC sounds like a good place to cruise to. 2 hours up. Drive around. 2 hours back. That oughta do it. 😁🚗

 

Great to here your up and running. Must have been good to here it start and settle into a steady idle. Looking forward to the tuning updates

When I change my oil along with a flush those first two seconds on start up waiting for the timing chain tensioner to pressure up and the noise that goes along with it is horrible

 

It actually took a couple minutes to have the oil completely full. Id say about 5 minutes in i turned around snd said DAMN, it just got really quiet. Cant even tell its got cams in it. Sounds and idles like a bone stock car. I will say i got a small taste of it today. Once i'm able to stand on it, if theres other mini's on the road that wants to mess around. There gonna be scratching there head. I was going about 35-40mph. And the traction control came on. Hehehehe.

 

That's what I'm torquing bout!

I wonder how far Manic will push the turbo with your forged internals and meth. I believe you can run 26psi on a JCW's.

So that would get a good starting point for Manic

 

My trust is completely and totally in jerry's hands on that decision. I'm sure as heck not afraid to test and try things. But eventually the subject is gonna come up. After things get worked out. I wouldn't object to using 1 map just for data logging and testing to get more information to improve and make tunes for jerry and nick. It only means that they would be available for you guys if they were developed properly and engines were built to handle it. In do time and at this point, patience will only work in my favor. I just got such a hard time staying off the gas. Your asking a sprintcar racer to not hit the gas peddle. SERIOUSLY !! UGH !!

 

Got alittle taste of power today in map #1. So i got ansy and tried to get it into map 2. Well, i must have done it right, cause From about 3200Rpm to i'd say 5200. Hang on. And i didnt even floor it. Only about 1/2-3/4 throttle. Soon as it hit 5200 i let off. It Has an obscene amount of torque steer. I cant imagine what its gonna be like with methanol and to the floor. So back to map 1. Taking a trip around the chesapeake bay to annapolis and back home this weekend. Should be a blast. Changing the oil before i go.

 

Alky ok have fun Sprint Car Guy just don't tip the can. Last time I did that I took the crank home in a basket, with some rods still attached. Sounds like it is going to be fun.

Tom

 

Did you have crower rods and forged pistons ? Or something to that affect like i do ? Or was it a stock bottom end ?

 

Are we talking about a simple port and polish or gunning for even more port work than usual? Never want to lose too much low end torque.

 

Do it all or dont do anything. Your normally playing with it to get power anyway. Polishing is the longest part. Its gonna take the same amount of time to polish even if you ground it out or not. And the power you get from just polishing given the amount of time it takes isnt worth the effort in my opinion. Your already there, make it flow. Just gotta stay away from that thin spot. Soooooooo much volume can be gained from working the sides and the center divider. From the seat up the port to about a 1/2" beyond the divider on the outside of each port can be made straight up the port. Then the center divider can be pushed back to the same size as the diameter of the seat and tapered to a point at the ends. The floor and the roof at the end of the divider can be accented to start the separation, then the center of the divider will be shaped in an arc type of fashion . The port is so small it really doesnt take long to do. Its the damn polishing part to get it super smooth since there is no fuel flowing thru the port. The amount you gain is worth the minor loss of down low. Besides, some of that loss down low i'm feeling could be because the compression went from what ? ( 10.25-10.5) down to 9.0:1. And the cams also dont have the low end grunt like the smaller duration and smaller lift cam has as well. So if you just do the head, with stock cams and compression. It'll prolly be ok. If your gonna do, just do it and get it over with. I'm not giving up the valve job angles and the double back cut angles of the intake valves. Thats for me, i gotta have something extra to myself.

 

Methanol kit goes in saturday with the new downstream o2 sensor.

 

on my way home tonight I decided to hook up my scanner to see what some values were while I was driving. Speed was about 70 mph, 2400 rpm roughly. And I took a snap shot of the scanner to see what the Intake air temps were. Theres been a lot of, "do CAI's work or add power"_ "do they really help cool the air". Well, I have a AEM Intake system with a wagner competition Intercooler. Outside temp was 41 degrees. Intake Air Temps were 45 degrees. I'm trying to post this photo but not sure if it'll post.